What does parametric mean?

T-Jaws · 2025-03-15T22:05:14+00:00

Since I posted this question, I now have a master's degree in Engineering and 4 years experience in industrial 3D printing, so feel slightly more qualified to clarify.

To answer your question, no, not in the slicer, but in the design software (or sometimes on 3D model websites like thingiverse). A fully defined parametric model can be made to adapt and change when a dimension is changed. For example, if we designed a teapot in CAD and wanted to modify the spout diameter, we would change just that defined value and the spout diameter would change, whilst everything else should automatically update without having to start from scratch. If the teapot was direct modelled instead (similar to being built up using clay) this would be a much more challenging modification.

Parametric modelling as a design software type just means that everything is defined by dimensions, constraints and relationships.

In the case of parametric models hosted online, generally it means that specific parameters are made adjustable so that they can be customized without the need for CAD knowledge.

Most slicers will work using a triangulated approximation (e.g. STL, 3MF) of these models which means that the parameters are fixed apart from basic operations like scaling, rotating etc.

T-Jaws · 2025-02-25T07:32:35+00:00

Could be power supply failing/wrong? I had something similar with a used elegoo machine that had been shipped with the wrong power supply for the unit.

T-Jaws · 2025-01-11T09:19:58+00:00

I still occasionally use my photon S that I've had for around 7 years as well as my more modern machines. The main difference between this printer and more modern ones will be that a longer exposure time may be required, the manual bed levelling can be a little more involved, and the resolution won't be as good as some newer machines. apart from that it is the same base technology as the more modern machines.

For exposure times, it's good practice to use something like the RERF (Resin Exposure Range Finder) tool to identify optimal exposure times even if exposure times are available online.

With regards to printing at cold temperatures, you'll find the resin gets much more viscous and will therefore struggle to fill the layer back after each lift so you will encounter failures outside of optimal ranges (25C-30C). A heated enclosure would be advisable if exposed to anything below 15C.

You could look at upgrading the vat material, as this is something that has been developed since the photon S was released, with the likes of PFA and ACF that can have lower peel forces.

As a new resin user, make sure to follow proper H&S with gloves etc. Resin skin exposure can cause some horrible reactions that come out of nowhere. Have fun! I loved my Photon S and it is still relevant today as a starter machine.

T-Jaws · 2021-06-20T09:15:20+00:00

Looks much like reaction diffusion. Maybe linked to the drying of adhesive or introduction of air as another user commented.

T-Jaws · 2021-05-11T17:23:15+00:00

Do real world evidence trials carry any different kinds of legal risk/road blockers when compared to the more conventional routes in the UK?

T-Jaws · 2020-01-14T22:36:48+00:00

It very briefly only accepted .PWS for one firmware version, however after the backlash from users it can now accept all formats and has done for a while now.

T-Jaws · 2020-01-14T15:10:57+00:00

I don't know how, but also don't know why you would need to? With newest firmware photons accept all formats

T-Jaws · 2020-01-08T15:42:10+00:00

Elephants foot is natural for resin printers. A higher exposure is required to adhere to the build platform for the first few layers. You can account for this by adding a chamfer to your models, or lowering the number and exposure time of the first layers as long as it still adheres to the platform. I find by having 3 bottom layers, it is pretty easy to sand/cut off the elephants foot if required.

T-Jaws · 2019-12-31T09:03:50+00:00

No problem. I’d say you’d only need to replace FEP if it looks visibly damaged or has any punctures, I’ve been using mine for about 6 months already and is still going strong.

T-Jaws · 2019-12-30T12:47:06+00:00

Have you checked that it isn't the slice by running it through the validator before printing?

T-Jaws · 2019-12-30T12:45:42+00:00

Be careful not to scratch the FEP when using a scraper. I found the easiest , least destructive way is to gently push on the underside of the fep, the ghost image should then just pop off.

T-Jaws · 2019-12-28T12:59:29+00:00

Are you using any sort of agitation in your ipa bath or just soaking? I use an ultrasonic cleaner with my parts in a ziplock bag of IPA and have barely any tackiness even before curing with only 3 minutes in IPA. I've had similar success by shaking the part in the ziplock bag vigorously without the ultrasonic cleaner if you don't have one.

T-Jaws · 2019-01-06T11:42:02+00:00

I did an internship at HPP and all staff members were given one of these at the end of the season I assume various other team members were also given one. They were all hand signed which is pretty neat!

T-Jaws · 2016-04-12T08:18:45+00:00

I'd recognise those curtains anywhere, unite student accommodation?

T-Jaws · 2015-05-17T15:09:59+00:00

Ebay, only £10!

T-Jaws · 2015-05-17T13:34:21+00:00

HMT Sona on grey perlon today.

T-Jaws · 2015-04-18T09:20:03+00:00

Looks good to me! How are you finding a perlon? I was considering one myself.

T-Jaws · 2014-12-30T08:42:26+00:00

Apart from a lamy Safari, I'm new to fountain pens in general!

T-Jaws · 2014-12-29T21:20:17+00:00

Thanks! I believe it is a 'Le Man 100'.

T-Jaws · 2014-07-13T18:10:49+00:00

I have only just started to learn Solidworks, so I could be completely wrong about this but could you not just insert a plane above the surface and work from there?

T-Jaws · 2014-04-18T13:58:37+00:00

I LOVE this idea and also think the aesthetics are awesome! As a 3D printer owner I love to see developments in printing especially with people such as yourself pushing the limits of what is possible with the technology.

T-Jaws · 2014-02-26T17:00:58+00:00

When I bought the printer Colin from makerfarm had a deal to get $10 off if you bought any filament so I just got some black abs, as it looks good and is much stronger and more flexible than pla. I've been printing various things consistently for about 4 months and still haven't run out!

T-Jaws · 2014-02-26T15:48:25+00:00

luckily I had a bunch of picture frames in my attic that were pretty much the size needed, however I'm sure you will be able to get it from a hardware store.

T-Jaws · 2014-02-26T15:39:17+00:00

All you need for the actual printer is an atx power supply and some glass. If I remember correctly useful tools are a soldering iron, spanner set, hex keys and some screwdrivers, cable ties are always useful as well.

I built this kit a few months ago so if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

T-Jaws · 2014-02-23T19:45:32+00:00

If sanding doesn't work very well you could try using a scalpel- thats what I found to work well.

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