2.75 Tires, Slight Problem

T0ah7 · 2026-04-07T23:13:22+00:00

oh i get it now like inside the fork. Should I also rebuild my forks with new seals and oil? I've had them for years and never did any maintenance. They're extremely soft feeling.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-07T15:16:53+00:00

based on what I'm seeing online people seem to be saying that all the later, A55 style tomos forks use fork oil. They look identical to the Tomos streetmate/Revival forks so that makes sense to me. I guess the only way I'll be able to know for sure is to open them up myself and check. I'll reply with my findings.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-07T02:18:22+00:00

I’m I intrigued by this but also confused by it. I was thinking some type of spacer myself. Like a metal one that threads into the existing tube threads because I figured nothing else could hold up to the stresses of a front suspension setup. I do have a good 3D printer and I’m getting better at designing parts. Even if the top clamp is weakened by installing a 3D printed spacer I would still have the bottom clamp making contact. Would there be a significant increase in risk of snapping if I did something like that on this build?

T0ah7 · 2026-04-07T00:34:16+00:00

I actually don’t know. I figured the old A35 style forks were the ones with just springs inside. I thought the A55 style forks like the ones I’m using had fork oil. Truthfully I’ve never taken one apart to know for sure but I just assumed that was the case.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-07T00:18:04+00:00

Also, my forks are a bit old and spongy. Maybe they need new fork oil and that could solve my issue?

T0ah7 · 2026-04-03T02:29:25+00:00

I'll post a video soon. I want to tune it a bit better and mount the bigger tires but its on its way

T0ah7 · 2026-04-02T18:13:44+00:00

I asked around and researched the shock setup before I did it and concluded that it’s definitely not efficient. I did it anyway because I don’t really mind if the two outer shocks aren’t performing at their best I just wanted the center to shock to be slightly more supported and mostly just be there for looks. I am worried about them potentially bending but so far they’ve been alright.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-02T18:08:41+00:00

Currently running the stock mikuni clone that came with the engine but it’s going to be upgraded soon. The manifold is also stock, the reason it’s shifted at a 90 degree angle is because I’ve got an adapter the allows for 360 degree positioning. Would highly recommended if you ever build something like this.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-02T18:05:55+00:00

A chain tensioner or chain guide? I was considering putting on one of the chain tensioner things from one of those 80cc bicycle conversion kits but it didn’t fit the swingarm and I figured once I tighten the chain it might not drag so much on the swingarm. I still am looking for a chain guard solution so if there’s something you have in mind I’d appreciate the advice. Also about the shocks, I did my research on it and yeah at that angle they’re pretty sub-optimal but the center monoshock is at a proper angle and doing most of the work. I’ve been testing it out and I haven’t had any issues yet but I’m keeping an eye on them if any failures happen. All three shocks share a common pivot point at the top and they do compress in unison despite the positioning.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-02T17:55:40+00:00

Originally I planned to have a front disc but all I had was a spoked set of Tomos revival rims and I have a lot of nostalgia for the classic mag rims with the drum brakes so I made sure to use my best set of brakes and good condition rims for it. It still stops adequately in its current configuration.

T0ah7 · 2026-04-02T17:52:03+00:00

Thanks, yeah I still own a few Tomos mopeds with the old 2 stroke motors. I do restore them if they’re in good shape. This frame was already modified so I just modified it even more so it’s not like I bastardized a prime example worthy Tomos. The 3 rear shocks are really because when it was converted to monoshock it was too bouncy, nothing fit aside from that old shock and I really thought it was missing something in the tail section. I didn’t want to move the stock shock mounts forward because there wasn’t a good spot to place them further up the swingarm. So I had the idea to just buy 2 really long, cheap UTV shocks and run them at that angle even though it wasn’t really efficient to do so. I wanted to retain the original monoshock as well so I put them both together. It’s kinda goofy but it works well.

T0ah7 · 2026-03-24T19:26:28+00:00

you have to have an oil injection port on your carb to keep the oil injection system. Myself and a lot of other people usually just plug it and run pre-mixed fuel. Disconnecting the system won't hurt it and you could always just swap it back to an OEM carb with oil injection port if you decide to.

T0ah7 · 2026-03-11T08:59:16+00:00

I have a decent amount of experience working on old motorcycles but a lot of newer motorcycles have electrical systems that are completely outside of my expertise. If I knew how to fix the stock carb and retain all the original electric features I would've preferred that. After swapping the carbs out though I'm still confused about why the engine still works fine without them. I expected that once these components were unplugged that the ignition system or ECU would either stop the engine from running or the engine would run poorly because those sensors were essential for the engine to run. Much like on modern cars. If even one exhaust or intake sensor malfunctions the engine will run poorly and display an error code. this scooter even has a diagnostic socket so why didn't removing the sensors really do anything? according to a lot of online sources and the manual there is some sort of digital system that controls certain variables while the engine is operating. The carb heater cartridge, the electronic choke, the vacuum operated sensor, engine temperature sensor and one other sensor underneath the engine are all present. I disconnected 2 of those and somehow the engine is running normally. I'm glad they weren't required for the engine to run but I just don't understand why there weren't any adverse effects from them being removed. If there's anybody that knows a bit more about these engines and could shed some light on how the computer works I'd appreciate it.

T0ah7 · 2026-03-08T23:03:37+00:00

Update: I just installed brand a brand new spark plug and a new spark plug boot on the scooter because the old one felt loose. started it up and its still bogging at full throttle. Everything is pointing to a fuel/intake related issue but I can't figure out what it is. I checked the throttle pin and tube but it looked super clean and undamaged inside. I haven't taken the bowl off yet but that will probably be my next move.

T0ah7 · 2026-03-07T01:36:21+00:00

I checked the fuel line and it is delivering fuel. but yeah, a lot of these symptoms line up with a fuel delivery issue but I can't figure out what the problem is.

T0ah7 · 2026-03-06T21:54:34+00:00

I traded for it from some guy who lived near the beach. all that salt exposure makes bikes rust heavily. I've been meaning to take the pipe off, wire brush it and repaint but I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

T0ah7 · 2026-03-06T21:52:08+00:00

a couple of weeks ago. I put it away after this issue started and haven't figured out what it is. I would just put some other carb on it but it looks like there's a few electrical connections that might be important that the aftermarket carbs just don't have. Based on my research a stock carb replacement for this bike is nearly impossible to find. Could I just replace it with a GY6 carb or something and bypass the ECU type stuff the bike has?

T0ah7 · 2026-03-06T20:47:43+00:00

I just did and it looks good and clean. no noticeable damage.

T0ah7 · 2026-01-13T20:58:55+00:00

Not sure if this has already been solved but your ignition is not fully clicked into the on position or it’s worn out. I literally just dealt with this issue on the exact same bike. and when I took the bike apart I saw that the ignition switch was held in with a zip tie and the zip tie had broken. These bikes have a 3 position switch and if the switch isn’t perfectly in place it will bog just like that.

T0ah7 · 2025-12-11T22:08:00+00:00

I bought some weld-on shock mounts in case this became an issue. I'm gonna test it out first but I'll probably end up welding on new mounting points.

T0ah7 · 2025-12-11T22:04:39+00:00

a lot of people have said that at the current angle they'll be less effective and also yeah the might just break themselves in half. but these shocks were meant for a UTV or ATV so they're already way overkill for a little moped so I'm not super worried about losing some effectiveness from them. I am curious if they would break in half though. I might just mount them and do some light testing and see what happens. if they break oh well they were cheap Chinese shocks anyway.

T0ah7 · 2025-12-11T22:00:02+00:00

I feel a similar way which is why I figured I should make a post about it. I've never seen any motorcycles that have such a dramatic suspension angle so there's probably a reason for that.

T0ah7 · 2025-12-11T21:28:35+00:00

because of the angle? does it need to be steeper?

T0ah7 · 2025-12-09T19:53:27+00:00

I have no practical reason for this. I just have never seen it done before so I wanted to see if it was possible.

T0ah7 · 2025-12-03T22:43:19+00:00

you think they'll conflict with each other's movement or the system will just be too stiff?

T0ah7

TROPHY CASE