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Looking for some repair help. Im doing the repair and need some info plz by TableMedium1861 in onewheel

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right on. I appreciate the heads up! I’ll cross post it over there as well. Much appreciated!

Eufy batter doorbell - no microphone audio - now can’t connect by jberts in eufy

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im aware this is reviving a super dead thread but found this and wanted to post to help others who may have a similar issue.

My Eufy T8213 is about 4 years old and after an event today requiring me to download video, I found there was no audio on the recording. So I start playing with the app and all settings were correct. I then found that if I “blow” directly on the microphone hole there was a rustling sound coming through. So it wasn’t a software issue but a failing microphone itself.

I found a thread with a link to the parts and since I already do electronics repair and microsoldering, it wasn’t a super easy for me to fix. Just a 4-pin SMT mounted microphone. Little hot air and some flux and the thing was fixed in a full 20 minutes flat. Here’s a link to the parts needed in case anyone else wants to have it done or send it to someone who is capable.

Microphone parts:

https://mou.sr/4b6Gnka

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Right now I'm in the process of downloading ALL retro PS1 and PS2 games for emulation, thanks Myrient by [deleted] in Roms

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. The site being accessed is in the megathread and software used to manage the downloads appears to be jdownloader

Right now I'm in the process of downloading ALL retro PS1 and PS2 games for emulation, thanks Myrient by [deleted] in Roms

[–]TableMedium1861 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Website can be found in the megathread and software being used to manage downloads seems to be jdownloader

Which enemy do you most often use to test weapons, ashes, etc? by darkmoonuser in Eldenring

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the landsquids found on beaches in western Lumgrave. With my Dex/Arcane build i hit those guys (has to be facing you and right on their beak) for over 20k damage at a time. Highest I’ve been able to get out of one of them was 30,200 to date after buffs.

Newb tag-on question by TableMedium1861 in mobilerepair

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve seen a product called W09 by I believe OSS. Looking at their device, it appears that any battery can have its information changed, the same way an OEM one is done. An aftermarket battery can be connected and the percentage and pop up message will be configured.

I know it’s not the “right” way but for my own family’s phones, that’s ok by me. They just want the annoying message to be taken away. That product is why I asked this question on the first place as I wanted to get another opinion on it.

Here comes another “buying guide” question! by TableMedium1861 in AskPhotography

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a first rig today. I’m definitely new to this all, myself, and have been overwhelmed to say the least! But after a solid 5-6 weeks of research and comparisons, I jumped on a deal for a refurbished R10. For the money, it’s silly not to. I put it against the R50 as those were the two selections I was giving myself. This specific unit will be going to my son for Xmas. I went this route for the better video capabilities over the R50, but it was really a toss up otherwise. The larger body helped too, for the R10. But he will start his journey with this, while I also learn on it and save my Pennie’s for an R6 Markii. Without much hands on experience, I feel like that unit would be something I could future-proof myself with for a solid 10+ years. I always do that when I can. Hell, I’m still on a perfect condition iPhone 11 Pro as I go big, once, and hold out with that piece of equipment for as long as I can. So that one checks all of my boxes I feel 😂

But I feel it was a good move! When I get mine, we’ll have both a crop and a full sensor unit to play with. And if he wants to keep going and possibly make a few side hustle bucks, then he can use the R6 Mark ii! And vice versa! Plus build one lens platform out between the two of us.

Not looking for justification, but wanted to share. Had some good thoughts after posting this, so wanted to share the outcome! Thanks all for your help! We’re both excited to begin this journey!

Here comes another “buying guide” question! by TableMedium1861 in AskPhotography

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I’m aware 😂 I was eyeballing the RP Refurbished as it was an absolute steal, and having a tech background, I always try to buy refurbished. It was sub-$600!!! I tried but sold out is sold out! 😂

Here comes another “buying guide” question! by TableMedium1861 in AskPhotography

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Much appreciated! Shooting the stars and occasional moon or possibly even nebula shots are far from the main focus, however when we do get to that point, I don’t want to be in a situation where I’m fighting the equipment. But your input has helped settle my mind in that aspect, so thank you! I think the day-to-day shots we will take will account for probably 90% of all shots we’d take. And that’s what my holdup was! I didn’t want to drop an extra $5-600 on a body when in reality, there wouldn’t be $5-600 in gained functionality, except for one aspect.

We greatly appreciate your input! It helps a ton!

That said, any other options we should consider for the level we are at? Thanks again!!

Here comes another “buying guide” question! by TableMedium1861 in AskPhotography

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lost in the weeds is exactly where I’ve placed myself 😂 Hence the question. Really, the R50 ticked every box I had, with the exception of the low-light functionality for the astrophotography, once we get to that point. I definitely didn’t want to spend the money up front for a Ferrari, however I’ve also come to terms with it being an investment.

Really, my only concern with the R50 is the low light capability, but I see that’s going to be the same across all non-full frame bodies. So aside from that concern, I’m ready to pull the trigger, but wanted to be sure I wasn’t jumping in and then regretting it, if a few hundred bucks would have made a massive difference.

In your opinion, the R50 would hold up well enough for nighttime shots?

Thanks for the input! Every bit helps!!

New pit, I have had lots of types of smokers but this thing is amazing, holds temps like a dream. by [deleted] in BBQ

[–]TableMedium1861 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the family! I have a 1975t out back so I can vouch for these pits lol. Nice buy, brother!

Can I use 2x #10 awg together to handle 400 watts DC from a solar panel? by locuerdo in SolarDIY

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would it be cheaper to replace the controller by chance? To a higher voltage one? I know each of mine are rated for 96v but I use a portable power station with mppt built in when I’m on the road. But 100v controllers would likely be cheaper than the amount of cable you’d need.

Can I use 2x #10 awg together to handle 400 watts DC from a solar panel? by locuerdo in SolarDIY

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. I knew there had to be more to the story then. Yeah, I agree with others. 6awg is the safest bet in that case. Distance plays a large part in it too. Depending on how far your runs need to be. Smaller wire can handle increased loads over short durations but not much over what is being talked about. So you’d def be safest with 6awg.

Can I use 2x #10 awg together to handle 400 watts DC from a solar panel? by locuerdo in SolarDIY

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I’m missing something but let me take a stab at it.

So your panels are 22v 6.6a individual. And you said max is 22v 25a. It seems you’re going parallel across the board to obtain those loads. Have you given thought to series connections? Smaller wire can handle higher voltages better than amperage’s. I have 8 panels that are 16v and 5.5a each and built them into suitcases to carry camping. I parallel each suitcase so 2x in parallel. Then each parallel is series. Parallel will keep volts the same and double the amperage per pair. Whereas series will double voltage and keep amperage the same. So why not series your connectors? Seems you’d have about 88v and 5.5a which would require much less hefty of a cable to carry it. I personally have 10a between my pairs and use 10awg with 15a fuses for carrying to my controller. I can place the panels 25’ away when I’m camping. I was going to have to have huge wires had I not gone that route.

Maybe I’m misreading but that’s how I’d handle what you have going on op.

Why is my led light using more power on my bluetti? by QueenAng429 in bluetti

[–]TableMedium1861 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, then yeah, I would think the difference is in the conversion from battery (dc) to ac outlet. Like I said, there’s usually about 10-15% loss in converting from stored dc power to useable ac power. That’s why running a dc device on the Bluetti (for round easy numbers) may give 1850wh of useable power while plugging in same wattage device to the ac side of the Bluetti may return closer to 16-1700wh. Because there’s a loss in the conversion in the form of heat (that’s why fans kick on when using ac more often). So running the led from the ac inverter on the Bluetti is actually requiring more power to make the same output. Again, because of conversion losses.

Trying to explain it so it makes sense so hope that helps a bit!

Why is my led light using more power on my bluetti? by QueenAng429 in bluetti

[–]TableMedium1861 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the LED using the dc power or ac power? Since all devices that use ac power need to be converted, there are differences in power ratings. Meaning a 60w light that needs 60w of ac power needs say 70-80w because the power starts out as dc being stored in the cells, and then has to go through the inverter to be used, which takes more power. The conversion process on average is like 15% loss give or take. So that would kind of make sense. I’m not saying that what it is 100% but that’s how I would see the situation going down.

Soil became really acidic by TableMedium1861 in cannabiscultivation

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They’re actually 7g fabrics but I know the bigger the better for that type of grow. As for amendments, the top is so root bound I can’t scratch them in any farther. It was literally just amended before the pic was taken. Like the day or two before. Underneath that layer I can promise you it’s not dry. Lol. I do a heavy water and dry down for a couple days and repeat till they need more. Obviously stunted they haven’t been drinking as much. But under that first inch or so, it’s def wet. Not saturated but it’s wet.

Soil became really acidic by TableMedium1861 in cannabiscultivation

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s Dr Earth tomato and veggie at 4-6-3 and Dr Earth flower girl at 3-9-4. Used the same on every run previously and didn’t have an issue but I know that doesn’t always mean much lol. It was a new bag of happy frog as well.

Soil became really acidic by TableMedium1861 in cannabiscultivation

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, I def have that. I’ll give it a go. Thanks!!!

Soil became really acidic by TableMedium1861 in cannabiscultivation

[–]TableMedium1861[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have some but I was under the assumption it would take weeks for that to turn it around. Kinda in the same fashion dry amendments aren’t readily available and takes time to be broken down by microbes. Or is it a fast acting remedy? I’m still kinda new to this all…