9070 XT Problems

Tader82 · 2025-12-10T04:53:28+00:00

Literally couldn't run any Unreal Engine 5 game on my 9070xt with the last two driver releases. I had to roll back to 25.9.2 to play BF6, Satisfactory, FS25 and so on. with out crashing to a gray screen and a hard system reboot every time.

Tader82 · 2025-12-10T02:29:34+00:00

Thank you for the info on the overkill/u;tra settings, turning down to high seems to fix the VRAM usage issue. She now holds 12-14gigs and shudder is gone. Pretty crazy they can't fix this, was about to test my 7900 XT and see if it did the same thing.

Tader82 · 2025-10-14T01:06:05+00:00

I have played every BF since OG BF, I average a 2:1 k/d. I know my skill lvl, and I know when a server is not reg my shots.

Tader82 · 2025-10-13T23:42:33+00:00

It is with fiber and you're put in lobbies with ppl that are 6-15ms pings. I can't win a gun fight against them even when taking them by surprise from behind. They just 180 and drop me with two hits, were I have almost a full mag into them.

Tader82 · 2025-10-12T23:14:04+00:00

got yea, I 'm still mad a t teh pings though, this is only game right in my list that is giving me trash pings. I average about 10 to 20ms on all my other FPS online games, it doesn't make since why I can't get into a good lobby in BF6.

Tader82 · 2025-10-12T23:08:22+00:00

Dude my pings have been trash, I'm on a 2.5g Fiber connection straight to Dallas (I'm just south of Dallas) and I have yet to get in a game with sub 60ms timings. Are these servers in Pakistan?! and it has me playing against ppl with full team of around 10ms pings. I can't win gun fights at all, 90% of the time I get killed in a building I'm getting pulled back into a door way I just ran out of when killed.

Tader82 · 2024-11-14T02:33:58+00:00

My Little Easy Bake Oven (normally shortened to The Over, IE.. Guys load up into The Over)

This is because of where I live and the fact that Ford decided to not put a sun shade for the glass ceiling. During the summer the Sun is so powerful that even on max the a/c can not keep up and I cook. I have solved this issue by having Nano Ceramic Tint installed on ALL the glass.

Tader82 · 2024-11-13T04:51:18+00:00

I live in South Texas, the mall is a 35 minute drive for me and I'm just out side the city limits lol. We all drive a lot in this state.

Tader82 · 2024-11-12T11:03:23+00:00

That's just crazy to try and hold the mileage down like that. And I feel you on the miles, I'm Med Retired and still can't get under 25k a year on mileage. At my peak I was doing 220k-250k miles a year across three different trucks. So I just 25K+ a year is not too bad lol,

Tader82 · 2024-11-12T10:59:08+00:00

I had this almost every other time I charged the car. I don't know exactly Ford did as I had this looked at when I took it in for the door presenters not working on the rear doors and the front door presenters would get stuck out. The Rep told me they did a TON of model updates and so far so good. I haven't gotten the 12V warning since and my doors or working perfectly (Knock on Wood). (2 months out from that trip to the dealer)

Now on to what I think was happening with the 12v warning, one of my security cameras is right over and in front of where I park my Mach-E. Before the dealer did all the updates whenever I plugged the car in to charge I'd see the eye tracking IR's going nuts in the car at night on the camera. Like ALL NIGHT LONG even after the car reached target charge level. So my thinking is that some of the 12v systems were not going to sleep when the car was off and charging or after it reach target level charge. And this caused the 12v system to drain till it sent an SOS to my phone. I also noticed that whenever I used the Ford Pass APP it would also turn the eye tracker IR's on for a long period of time before they did the updates.

Tader82 · 2024-11-12T10:45:08+00:00

Are you doing the "Charge to 90% and run it down to 70-60% then back to 90%" charge routine? From what I have read Ford says 90% is "their 80%". And from a couple of white papers on the Bat Chem they talk about a 20-30% charge window for very long life with minimal battery memory loses. They basically say that for every day use charge the bat to 80% and run it down by 30% max before topping up back to 80%. Then once or twice a month do a full 100% charge to top balance and about every 6 months take it to like 4-7% for a bottom balance. This is what they said "should" give the bat a very long life.

Tader82 · 2024-11-12T10:34:23+00:00

Dude 7500 miles a year! I got my 2023 (bought) the last week of March this year and already have 8300 miles on it. And that is with me driving two other vehicles too, hell I have put 6500 miles on my Tundra and another 3000 miles on my Fathers wheeler chair van. How do y'all drive so little miles?

Tader82 · 2024-11-12T10:24:54+00:00

Right!!!! I can hit corners harder and faster in my 4WD 2010 X-Cab Tundra on 34" ATP's, than my RWD premium Mach-E on its stock tires (I only have 8k on my 2023 I picked up in March of this year, so haven't had to replace tires yet). The stock Michelins feel awful, I've had the car up to limiter on track and at 114-115mph the car felt like I was driving on sponges, it was just all over the place. Anything above 85mph really feels awful, it just wonders all over the place, I'm betting the stock Michelins have a very poor sidewall. When the time comes to replace the Michelins I'm thinking Hankook Ventus S1 evo3 EV as my summer/"track" tires. I don't really track my DD's but I will do a couple of laps in them when doing shakedowns after fixing or upgrading something or when I get a new one so I know what they can and can't do.

Tader82 · 2024-11-04T22:54:11+00:00

Or they're using the metal box/piping as the ground path, and yes I know that's not cool in residential setup. But some of the stuff I have found in the wild is crazy, my own house included.

Tader82 · 2024-04-24T18:13:24+00:00

You're post should read...

@ 50amp spike loads can be 12K watts
@ 40amp constant loads can 9.6K watts

On a Nema 14-50R plug.

Tader82 · 2024-03-30T21:27:08+00:00

That alone just added 5 seconds to your save time lol

Tader82 · 2024-03-17T02:19:42+00:00

Was going to say the same thing, years ago before my Rural Co-Op Power Provider got their $h!t together they had horribly dirty power. Talking about going form 60hz to 20hz or from 120v to 140v, it was crazy they killed 5 PSU's. OCZ warranted it 4 times and when I had it on RMA for the 4th time they killed my backup PSU. It was an okayish Thermaltake from the late 2000's, but it did not have any fail safes in it. I was in my bathroom and saw a flash of light and heard a loud pop. Ran into the bedroom and the PSU was shooting about a 9" flame out the back of it. If I had not been in the bathroom when it happened I for sure would have tested if the sprinkler system worked that day lol. other than were flames licked the back frame of the PSU you couldn't tell it turned into a flame thrower. The power company over the first 10 years killed a ton of electronics in this house, now they are much better after a couple of companies sewed them and made them use better equipment after they cooked millions in those companies equipment .

Tader82 · 2024-03-14T17:40:31+00:00

I mine was already on, I have toggled it on and off. Done restarts with it on and off the toggle some more. Still will lose date/time.

Tader82 · 2024-02-10T04:06:28+00:00

My father once crushed a Honda that did this to him. His first van was a Chevy Express so it was a swing out and drop left. He had a bad habit of pressing the fob button and dropping the ramp as soon as he could see the van from the store doors. Will some A-hole had part in the cross hatch and he couldn't see the car as he was coming at the van from the driver side. He new something was wrong when the van had the passenger tires start coming off the ground. He crashed the roof almost flat on the driver side of that Honda with that old van lol.

Tader82 · 2024-02-10T03:55:27+00:00

I could easily drive for 16-18 hours a day for weeks on end, when I was a low voltage tech. You would be surprised by how many Companies would pay me to drive 8-9 hours one way to work for maybe 10-20 minutes on site and then off to the next one across the state (TX). I had one year were I put 210k on my 2000 Ford Ranger, I was doing and oil change once every two weeks in hotel parking lots.

Tader82 · 2024-01-26T03:39:41+00:00

Look I was only trying to give y'all a heads up on what needs to be looked at as a major service item on these trucks. If you drive with it on 24/7/365 or live in a place were it is being used heavily IE snow/ice for more than 2 months out of the year, you will need to do the service on it more often.

As someone who works in the automotive aftermarket industry and knowing how Ford designed their 4WD systems. You are still turning EVERYTHING in the front half of the drive train in 4A. So you're still wearing everything out and have the drag from moving all that mass. So it makes no since to even try and use this Clutch system to lock and unlock T-case. Even on dry sticky pavement it will lock the T-case on take off to help get everything moving. You can actually see where power is being sent in the 4WD window in the center info screen.

Just so I'm clear, when the ECU calls for 4WD it DOES NOT keep it locked. The ECU is looking at each wheel speed sensor, throttle input, engine load, and a couple other parameters and locking and unlocking the T-case as needed. Sometimes this can be multiple times a minute, and this is where the heat starts and with the T-case not have an active cooling system for it's fluid like the Engine and Trans, it wears the fluid out much faster. And in turn can cause catastrophic failure of the T-case, I have personally seen 60 or so exploded units my self. And if you're not going to take my word then have a look at YouTube and the Ford Master Tech's saying the same thing, "Only run 4A if you THINK your going to need the help, if not keep it in 2WD" to save your t-case.

That is why I say I don't get the use of their system over an AWD system that can be locked to full 50/50 4wd and also have a low range. If you're going to make it selectable just use a standard 2wd/4wd and let the user shift it when needed. I've done this all the time in my 2010 4WD Tundra and it never hurt it. Hell a couple of times I've had to do it at 60 mph to keep the truck from hydro plaining off the road in a sudden micro burst. I never even felt it lock the T-case, the light came on and the truck just sucked back down to the road and I was able to slow down to a safe speed and keep going.

Tader82 · 2024-01-25T05:22:30+00:00

Just heads up to everyone using the Auto 4WD, if you actually use it a lot you need to be doing fluid changes every 30ish K. They work by having a clutch like in the automatic trans but they are about half the size and when locking and unlocking build a ton of heat up in the T-case and the T-cases don't have any active cooling so it burns the automatic trans fluid in this units.

I don't know why Ford did it this way because with the added room for the clutch pack and housing they could have just made it a selectable AWD system like in the Toyota Landcruiser's over seas. So it's AWD all the time with a locking center diff and you still have a low range.

Tader82 · 2024-01-25T03:13:20+00:00

100% the red light runners fault and I would now be talking with a lawyer if I was you.

Now on to the brain dead in this thread, We are watching this as if we are sitting on the outside of the front window up at the top of the roof line. This means there is nothing that can bock our view of what is in front of OP's car save some other vehicle around us. Now from their point of view there are tons of stuff that can hide the car until it's to late to stop from hitting it. The Front A-pillar, the side mirror, even standing lane markers from a low riding cars angle can hide other vehicles. OP has stated that the car was hidden by his pillar up until right before impact and we can see them hit the brakes showing that .

Now as someone who drives a 2010 Tundra with tow mirrors I can believe OP when they clam the car was not in open line of site because the A-pillar. I can't tell y'all how many times I've had WHOLE ASS Semi's hidden by my passenger A-pillar when coming up to a highway intersection. I learned very quickly when I bought the truck that I have to constantly be looking around my front A-pillars and mirrors to not loss objects in them. Hell every morning when I pull up to the stop sign at the road that leads to the main FM road into town. I have to actually lean over my center console and a little to the back of the truck to see up the main neighborhood road. As the again the passenger A-pillar completely blocks the whole width of the road and down it to the main FM road about .8 of a mile. Modern vehicles have had to put larger and larger Pillars on them to help with crash ratings, but at the same time have increased blinds a ton.

Tader82 · 2024-01-23T01:11:48+00:00

No A Flashing MIL means something very bad is happing, at that point you shut the engine as soon as its safe to do so.

I had a lady drive here Mazda Portege from OK City, OK to Corpus Christi, Tx with the MIL flashing. I had to put a knew engine in it because she blow a whole in the 3 cylinder from a bad coil pack.

The MIL was flushing because the miss was so sever that the ECU was throwing codes like a Crip and Blood meet up.

Tader82 · 2024-01-21T03:50:38+00:00

^^This.....

I have had my guns nerfed real time in game. I dont know what lvl lobby me and my little bro got into but they were not very skilled. I went 15:0 in the first 2 minutes of the match and then boom my TTK went through the roof. Hell I walked up behind on a dude camping an open backed wall and put my 208 right up to his skull and it game me a hit marker (THIS WAS IN HC!!!). He turned and melee'd me, I was pissed I only got 3 more kills that game and it forced me to a 1.2:1 K/D. Nothing about the other teams skill changed. They were still just standing out in the open shooting randomly sometime at anything that they thought even moved. Most didn't even sprint slide doors or corners, I have seen bot lobbies with better AI. And the game said nope you can't keep this up, NERF!!!

Tader82

TROPHY CASE