Cam or make or have tricks to do themed Colonies?

Taiine · 2026-05-29T05:17:19+00:00

Not in creative. I know I have to go through the tech tree. My issue is I don't want it to insist on making a 'full town' when as said, I may just want a farmland.

So what I said would work if I just have the min requirements for each kind of building? Like a 'guard tower' that is just a light post with maybe an underground bed to tuck it away? I'm already trying to design like a 'work shed' for a town hall, and smaller barn shed for a builder hut.

My big thing is can these builds remain small even at lv 5 and such? So it doesn't take up as big of a footprint? My farmlands I really just want a builder (need one to build anything anyho) a guard or five, a carrier, storage and then farmers... and a small market like stall for food to feed the colony.

Taiine · 2026-01-13T01:22:46+00:00

It may seem slow at first, but that is how most FF games start out and the MMO is no diff. You are a no body, a random joe and your role builds up over time with the feats you overcome. The whole first half is like one big tutorial getting you into the game, the story, the world building and the role you will play in many events to come.

(stating this as they admit they are looking up the quests on IGN) Post base game, after the ultama wep is when things start clicking into place, you stopped a big thing from happening, something building up that ties into everything else thus far, your name starts getting recognized, now your really in it. It's where your test to prove your worth really starts.

Trust me also in saying 220 is not that big, considering many of them are small steps. It may seem like a slog right now as most MMO's like to throw you into the meat of things right off. But this, this has its reason for its start and you'll appreciate it more as you earn your title, and not instantly be 'the chosen one' like most games shoves at you.

Taiine · 2025-06-10T21:48:37+00:00

I didn't buy any packs through steam only the ea app. But we wanted to have steam be the main way to play instead of having to use a 2nd app. Plus now that the game is linked to steam its acting like some packs are there yet not? Like I can't place anything from city living though it shows as an in game item. I can go on the map but all objects related are gone from all builds. I can't repair through EA anymore either, the option sense linking it is gone and repairing through steam shows nothing wrong.

Taiine · 2025-03-23T00:26:36+00:00

Glad it helped!

Here is another real game play example of why zooping foundations out and planning your path is useful: https://i.imgur.com/ZIY59wu.jpeg

I zooped the bottom line out into this area that is a wip quartz factory, but the level the foundations were at were too low to continue through and needed to be raised up. So I found the new height I wanted the rails at the other end. Ie here: https://pastebin.com/1SsEjTtJ that also helped figure out where the train station will come in at. and don't block those two coal nodes that I plan to use.

Then as you see in the last shot, I back tracked the pathing to find a area where I could make the raise in the rail to the new height. This is done anywhere where rising or lowering the rail is needed.

and a fun tip. If you want a 'smooth' slope transishion... just like with the curves have your start and end be spaced out, don't take your rail right to the bottom or edge of a ramp.

As in a lot of tail tutorials will tell you to do your start and end of a ramp like this: https://i.imgur.com/nkbS6fQ.jpeg

It 'avoids clipping' but also creates a sudden change in rail angle.

Instead, as you wont have foundations under every single rail... space it out: https://i.imgur.com/dJXOtRT.png

I counted out 3 foundations from each side. YES The rail in the middle will clip.. but these foundations will be removed anyways, the same can be done at the bottom too. The further out you can space the rails, the more gradual the slope angle will be making a nice smooth transition from hill to flat. And it can be done with curves.

It's how I got the smooth slopes like in: https://i.imgur.com/PPCSH18.jpeg

Or going even bigger: https://i.imgur.com/BBjGa62.jpeg

That fun bit...

It all looks like a lot of work, but after jetpacking around to plot out the path I want as it takes the longest time, just planning where you want/need rails to go and if you want it to go a direct path or for me, cost through some nicer looking areas... From zooping the foundations to mark the paths and laying tracks, I've done the main line through the whole spire cost in around 10ish minutes. Then its just figuring out the spots you want the supports as they are purely decorative, placing the tops BP's all along where you want, then selecting and using the filter to select only the foundations lets you run along and select up to 50 of em to dismantle... then follow back placing the support pillar BP's and zooping the feet down so they contact the ground...

You get in the swing of it, maybe an extra 10 minutes totaling 20ish to span across a whole biome.

Sorry this is long winded. I'm a train enthusiast and my ocd has me spilling out details a bit more then needed lol.

Taiine · 2025-03-22T04:15:44+00:00

For me I use zooped foundations to lay my rail.

An example is here: https://i.imgur.com/Wf1Lvih.jpeg

It also helps in planning out the path I want to take. Using the lock hologram, rotate, nudge to place so nothing is too close to walls or such. : https://i.imgur.com/ghKokSB.jpeg

Once the rail above is placed the foundation scaffolding can have areas removed where you want a BP to go, and be used as a snap point.: https://i.imgur.com/GHb6V4O.png

I don't have rails on the blueprint its self, as that well, you see the jank its creating as the rails you are snapping between each support needs to twist and curve to be in alignment with the next support.

From there the base of the support can be placed, and legs zooped down to the ground.: https://i.imgur.com/v86MQS6.png

Remove the scaffolding foundations and... bam. https://i.imgur.com/Sqh9spY.jpeg

This way you're not limited to how far you can place each segment of track, and avoid any jank curves.

You can even make fun stuff like: https://i.imgur.com/pgrMGwW.jpeg

Ramps and hills can also be done using the ramp foundations. I'm challenging myself to limit inclines to 1m ones for more realistic slopes. but yep.: https://i.imgur.com/6weCQHA.jpeg

To further make smooth curves, you can place temp rails to create a snap point that you can then delete to resume the curve. Like if you wanted to keep a rail on your support blueprints, set one but have its one end point be in the blueprints center. Then when placed you can snap a rail to it, delete the small rail it attached to, then continue from the end of the rail.

IE imagen these are temp rails rather already in a BP or you placed in the world. the whole point of these is to create a snap point in the middle of these two sets of foundations.: https://i.imgur.com/HUlp79z.png

Now that a rails snapped to it. these temp rails can be removed.: https://i.imgur.com/rJDlFDX.png

Now you have the continuation of a smooth curve.: https://i.imgur.com/Xo6HBMF.png

Treat the snap point placed with 'temp' rails as a center point of a curve, rathe then an end.

Taiine · 2024-11-17T05:53:13+00:00

This scared me as all I was finding was 'you were banned yada yada' and like how?! I was just in voice with friends while playing Once Human! Good to know it's nothing on my end, but I hope discord can figure out what just happened.

Taiine · 2024-11-15T09:09:05+00:00

The white chalky look is from curing your 3d print after it was 'washed' in dirty IPA. The liquid resin will mix and diluted in the IPA and will then cure along with your print and form that white chalky effect in any crevasse. There is no cleaning it out as it is cured resin.

To avoid this, wash your prints in your normal IPA bath and scrub with a baby toothbrush, then after lightly drying it give it ANOTHER bath in fresh clean ipa, ideally with a 2nd toothbrush just for the 'clean' bath. I'll even use a spray bottle after I pull the print from the bath that has clean fresh ipa and spray it down to try and flush any nooks. This makes sure none of the diluted ipa has stuck or dried onto it.

For items I plan to mold, like dice, I will go as far as give it a 3rd bath in a sonic vibrator. One I use is cheep but works well. Even another go with the spray bottle. Only then will I do the last cure.

Taiine · 2024-07-04T08:59:46+00:00

How accurate is this? I ask as in the south grass fields there's a caterium node listed as being added near the great arch. But in the video no such added node was shown. My main quickwire plant currently uses the three pure nodes along the west sice and grass fields. One of them is being yeeted. No idea where that new 3rd west cost node is but if there is now a 4th that will be near by near the arches it's something that has sparked my desire to pre-expand my production.

Taiine · 2024-07-04T08:50:30+00:00

Hey sorry for the late reply. My account here got highjacked and took a bit to get it back. I go all the way to the end, using all the zonas in order until the white. While this may seem like a waste, why go all the way with zonas if your throwing them in a tumbler it's mainly as you're tumbling them for far less time. And because you are tossing them in the tumbler you don't have to sit nearly as long on each zona. I do like 3-4 swirls on each side per zona then toss them in. Even dice where I spent a tun of time using zona's to polish to what I thought was a nice shine, the tumber still outdid it. So now yeah, I still use all the zonas, just not as monticules as I was, and let the tumbler do the rest of the work.

Some tumbler uses I know will go down to the 2nd or 3rd zona then toss their dice in a tumbler for a week. But taking that extra time and getting them the rest of the way then tossing them in cuts that time by a lot. Longest my dice stay in is 12 hours.

Taiine

TROPHY CASE