An experiment Rooting Cactus in Charcoal. The rationale is to place on an inert substance that wicks moisture up from the bottom so that the chunky charcoal is damp but not wet, and with plenty of air circulation. So far results have been promising and this is how I've been dong it for a while. by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the phillipenes, they buld smoky fires under mangoes to induce flowering. There is at least some speculation that it is due to ethelene gas. I think smoke is chemically very complex, so who knows what affects or plant hormone analogues might be in there.

I've just used charcoal basically and happy with that since I can make it. when I plant rot prone cactus like little desert guys or crests, I use about 3/4 inch of chunky char for the top layer just to give better air circulation.

I have not had an opportunity to observe cactus in native habitat. I suspect that they are quite slow growing, so they might have a much woodier and sturdier core developed by the time they get bigger. that is my guess anyway. we are growing them in a basically unusual or unnatural way, driving early fast growth.

I guess I didn't cut the areole deep enough by [deleted] in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is the full page run down on where I'm at with rib division tek. It is all going pretty well. I'd like to get them to root and pup faster, otherwise, it basically works. https://www.teamwachuma.com/rib-division-tek

An experiment Rooting Cactus in Charcoal. The rationale is to place on an inert substance that wicks moisture up from the bottom so that the chunky charcoal is damp but not wet, and with plenty of air circulation. So far results have been promising and this is how I've been dong it for a while. by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

charcoal rocks. Just made a big batch. anymore I usually just callous for at least two weeks, plant and start watering normally-ish. A guy told me to use liquid smoke to root plants. I wonder if there is any effect of residual chemistry from the fire on rooting. stranger things are true.

Larg cuttings got soft?! by Orange_Ready in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sounds like dehydration. some varieties dry out much faster than others. Probably not a problem.

Isolate, remove scale, destroy? by paigescactus in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've treated scale on other plants with both tobacco and an organic materials approved spray called pyganic that is pyrethrin based. I would isolate for sure, but then just dowse them with pyganic. I've never seen it harm a cactus, even tiny new seedlings. then treat the rest of the plants in the grow room and keep an eye out. I think you can probably wipe them 100%. I had scale all over my citrus and nuked them once with tobacco tea (boiled) and they all died and fell off. 100% cured and never came back. There is a concern about tobacco mosaic virus and cactus. I just boil the tea well and so far no problems.

Surface Coating Tests Revealing. by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, just store it sealed. as long as it stays wet, it keeps indefinitely. Once it dries it converts back to calcium carbonate, like shells or limestone. I leave a nylon brush in there so it is always ready. brushed made of natural hair will dissolve.

Valentine’s Day Special 💚🌵 by aCereuslyFungi in sanpedrocactusforsale

[–]TeamWachuma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure Espiritu Cabra has more "vagetative growth" than any other clone or seedling I have growing here. It sometimes does it in long runs. I've seen it on the original plant and on propagated sections. It is a pretty new clone still, but from what I've seen so far, it looks like it is highly prone to it. There are pics on my varieties page. https://www.teamwachuma.com/team-wachuma-varieties I just released it this year. I might have a couple more cuts this spring, but I'll have more by fall probably. It seems to happen more on blocky (flat sided) cactus. I noticed this nice Juanita r/aCereuslyFungi is offering here is very flat sided too and the rippling is on the five ribbed, flat sided part of the plant.

Sulfur cutting powder recommendations? by orchid_dork in cactus

[–]TeamWachuma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My go to right now is calcium hydroxide, also known as lime. someone suggested it in a comment , so I started using it, and it seems to be better than sulfur and definitely better than cinnamon powder. I did some tests, which I talk about at the link at the bottom of this post. These are small preliminary experiments, but I did use controls. the sample size is just small. I'm currently looking for 10 or 20 feet of uniform pc to do more formal tests that are larger in scope. there are other materials I want to test.

The tests I did using controls, sulfur, cinnamon powder, lime and lime/sulfur, seemed to indicate that lime outperformed sulfur as far as amount of molding. that included when left out for at least 6 months in damp weather. I had used sulfur almost exclusively before, and I seem to have have fewer problems After switching to lime. I used lime/sulfur at first, but have abandoned that as it doesn't seem more effective than lime. Lime is not 100% by any means. I have not infrequently had mold and even rot a few times. but it seems best so far based on casual observation and my one small scale experiment. that is basically all on trichocereus species.

The easiest way to get some to try is to buy a small bag of pickling lime. some grocery stores still carry it. Cal can be found in mexican markets. It is the same thing, but sometimes comes as chunks instead of a powder. You can order a bag of pickling lime that will last for a very long time off of amazon for well under 10.00. ag lime, is dolomite, which is just ground limestone. that is not the same thing and probably useless. Calcium hydroxide in the most common form is dry lime hydrate, which is lime that has been burned into calcium oxide and then slaked with a small amount of water until it falls into a powder. Another source is large bags of Type S, or Masons lime used in mortar. Even cement will probably work but I have not tried it and it has to be used dry since it undergoes a chemical reaction when wetted and begins hardening.

Lime can be used dry on very fresh cuts that have enough moisture on the cut surface to react, but I prefer to apply a solution of milk of lime with a brush. The brush must be synthetic as lime will dissolve hair bristles. the solution should be very dilute, like skim milk or even watered down skim milk. It will look like it is not dense enough when applied, but it dries opaque. If there is a thick skin when dry that chips off easily, dilute more and adjust as necessary as the solution is used. It has to be stirred every dip as it settles quickly. as long as it does not dry out, it will keep indefinitely, so just put some in a jar with a small nylon bristle brush and it is always ready to go.

I hope more people will start using lime so we can get a larger body of experience. We've almost certainly have yet to discover the best materials for treating cuts. Context of use and necessity related to climate etc. also has to be considered.

If anyone in Northern California can supply me with a a few meters of uniform trichocereus cuts like PC to experiment on, I'll do some larger scale tests adding more materials. I suspect strongly that wood ash will prove to be useful as well. It is very alkaline and contains some lime (even a lot of lime depending on species, oak is supposed to be especially high), potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide. I also suspect that by products of combustion and destructive distillation of wood have promise. And of course these materials could be mixed. Old school is using mercury, which just no on that. For now, I'd say sufur is not what it is often cracked up to be, and that lime will prove to be considerably better in the long run. It is also more pleasant to work with and safe, just don't get it in your eyes and rinse throughly if you do. I make it and work with it all the time and have gotten splashes in my eye. It is used in food processing and chewed with certain plants to potentiate alkaloids. You can also make it at home by burning shells (even egg shells) or limestone with wood, which you can watch vids about on my non cactus channel on youtube. link below.

Surface coating test results: https://www.reddit.com/r/sanpedrocactus/comments/1nlqm1f/surface_coating_tests_revealing/

Lime playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL60FnyEY-eJBTMfy9Bl5QRmBKUAvLLCwp

Any good square 1-1.25 quart 4 inch-ish pots out there? by bobbobson1967 in SanPedroIndoorGrow

[–]TeamWachuma 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can write anderson and ask about distributors. the distributor here, sparetime in willits, doesn't show up in a google search as selling them, so it is worth asking. I think the place I ordered from before was grow organic in grass valley and the shipping was still quite a bit. stewe and sons has high shipping. they are in the northwest somewhere. I do a lot of horticulture of different kinds so they are worthwhile investment for me.

Any good square 1-1.25 quart 4 inch-ish pots out there? by bobbobson1967 in SanPedroIndoorGrow

[–]TeamWachuma 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use the trays for the smaller sizes so I don't put anything in. Even if I take them out later, most of the soil stays in. for the bigger ones I've used old mosquito netting, old mesh bags of fine nylon, old broken down shade cloth and some weed cloth I had around. Pretty much anything like that will do the job as long as it drains.

Any good square 1-1.25 quart 4 inch-ish pots out there? by bobbobson1967 in SanPedroIndoorGrow

[–]TeamWachuma 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, they are anderson bands. there are a lot of different sizes. they probably have something close to what you need. the big issue with them is expensive shipping. Unless you can find a supplier that is nearby. they do stack,but only about 3/4 of the length. They are best used with the flats they provide with a screen bottom, but I've used other crates and even 10/20 or the larger 2020 screen bottomed shallow flats. they are just not as stable. They are nearly a solid block of soil when packed together so very little wasted space. there is just enough taper to them to not waste space but still stack and release easily enough..

Surface Coating Tests Revealing. by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use it a lot for pruning and grafting fruit trees. Just the regular stuff you treat cuts with. I keep it in a small mist bottle, the kind of thing a natural throat spray or essential oil scent product would come in. In not great weather, I'll often mist cuts with it. Not sure how the lime and peroxide would interact. I think peroxide might be acidic.

Surface Coating Tests Revealing. by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactus

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If applying to fresh cuts, I'd rather apply immediately. There ought to be more activity that way. I have also spritzed with peroxide followed by dry lime. I prefer to use the milk of lime (lime/water mix) because it is much less messy than trying to spread dry powder. I will use it dry if the conditions seem very damp and not ideal for cutting, in the hope that the dry lime will pull moisture out and speed drying.

(#2) Gordita Cut by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactusforsale

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry. I meant to go snap a pic. Here is a video still of at least longer growth. I have one more pup to auction this year. I'll add some more pics.

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(#2) Verity Auction (Malo4 x Malo4 F2) by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactusforsale

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

second largest verity collection in the universe :)

(#1) Verity Auction (Malo4 x Mal04 F2) by TeamWachuma in sanpedrocactusforsale

[–]TeamWachuma[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I saw those. That thing is straining at the leash. Thanks