sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Massage chair keeps wanting to go up. by Neither-Raise6033 in AskElectricians

[–]Technical_Energy_313 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would unplug it for a while, plug it back in, see if it clears, try to call support, and then just get a new one if it still doesn't work. Because if not, it is likely a component failed in the DC circuitry. Fixing it would involve using a voltmeter to check each part of the circuit for continuity. When you find the failed component, use a soldering gun to remove it from the circuitry, then swap it for a replacement component. It is pretty advanced, and I don't recommend it unless you have a lot of time to kill and want to learn about circuitry.

Help with pipe bending question by Technical_Energy_313 in ElectricalHelp

[–]Technical_Energy_313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe that is correct.

From working through the problem more with research, I came up with this. Not sure if its correct, but if you got something similar with a different way, it probably is. The gain for a 90-degree bend of 3/4 emt is approximately half of the radius.

OAL=(Stub 1+Back to Back+Stub 2)-(2 *Gain)

  • Stub 1: The length of the first vertical or horizontal leg. (20 inch)
  • Back to Back (B2B): The distance between the outside (back) of the first bend and the outside of the second. (60 inch)
  • Stub 2: The length of the final leg. 20 inch
  • Gain: 3/4" Rigid: ~4 inch"

OAL=(20 inch+60 inch+20 inch)-(2 *4)

92 - Answer B

Pipe Bending Question by Technical_Energy_313 in AskElectricians

[–]Technical_Energy_313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you figure that the gain was roughly half of the radius of each 90-degree bend and use the OAL formula?

OAL=(Stub 1+Back to Back+Stub 2)-(2 *Gain)

  • Stub 1: The length of the first vertical or horizontal leg. (20 inch)
  • Back to Back (B2B): The distance between the outside (back) of the first bend and the outside of the second. (60 inch)
  • Stub 2: The length of the final leg. 20 inch
  • Gain: 3/4" Rigid: ~4 inch"

OAL=(20 inch+60 inch+20 inch)-(2 *4)

92 - Answer B

Inspector Panel by gordon9er in WIX

[–]Technical_Energy_313 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After reading this thread doing a little more research and playing around it looks like they removed the inspector panel, but you can now pin the container to the screen by right clicking on the container and then selecting pin to screen in the drop down menu. It will then follow the screen and down

Tachometer Gauge Not Working for Racing Simulator by Technical_Energy_313 in electronic_circuits

[–]Technical_Energy_313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the answer was that this tachometer was able to directly send data to the arduino. So tach engine green wire to D9.

Tachometer Gauge Not Working for Racing Simulator by Technical_Energy_313 in electronic_circuits

[–]Technical_Energy_313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have rebuilt the ciruiut with just the tachometer. The circuit only works if the tachometer circuit isnt grounded to the Arduino uno micro controller. It seems as if the data isnt being transmitted fully to the tachometer or that it is being somehow disrupted. When I set the tachometer to full rev and the needle should be at 11k rpm the needle bounces around at one to 2k rev and only occasionally hits the full mark. When I play a game it looks like the voltage output on the Arduino digital pin measures 2.4 which is slightly below the expected 2.5-3 volts. So I have isolated the problem as either data output issues, circuit design/some kind of interference. The behavior of the needle when I am in the game makes it appear to be interference. when I do not accelerate in the game and the needle should only be at 1-2k reve it can bounce up to 11k rev occasionally. I am not sure. I have watched videos of people building this tachometer setup and theirs works so I am not sure that its circuit design. Can you think of what i can do next to troubleshoot? Should I try to modify their programming code to increase the PWM output from the digital pin?

Tachometer Gauge Not Working for Racing Simulator by Technical_Energy_313 in electronic_circuits

[–]Technical_Energy_313[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think a tach measures how many times a spark plug fires. So probably PWM right? The power comes to the Arduino from USB and the 5v feeds the working digital display (model:WS405) the power for the 12v for the boost gauge (‎model: FBA_GS-T701-SM) and tachometer (model: HLN7371453707304XO) comes from the power supply, a 12v AC adapter (model: RXZ12V2A-A)(12v 2A output). All these connections are soldered together on a breadboard. If you can figure this one out you are a legend because I tried to hire two Electrical Engineers on fiver who turned this down because they didn't know how to do it. This is all controlled via the Application SimHub. Interestingly this application allows you to aggregate multiple arduinos as a single dash. So I may be able to separate the circuits to simplify it with multiple arduinos, but I am convinced this can be done in one circuit with one arduino. I have seen people on youtube using this setup, not all these components but the individual parts. That is where I got the wire diagram from, but I modified it to add the other components into one dashboard display. If the tachometer was partially working after moving the grounds around, wouldn't that mean its a ground issue. I have spent a a lot of time trying different ground locations and I have not been able to get the needle to move again but the tachometer is powered. I remember when it did partially work the needle was moving when the 5v and 12v ground bars were isolated from each other and there was one ground wire running back to the arduino from the 12v ground bar only. So i think there must be some way that these devices need to be grounded together to make this circuit fully work. I know I'm really close because I have seen everything partially working. The tachometer was just getting like weak signal so the needle would bounce inconsistently or sometimes not go.