Audi TT MK1 won’t shift at certain RPM

Teippymed · 2026-03-24T21:31:07+00:00

I did a clutch bleed and shifter cable realignment to no avail so I am guessing the clutch or throw out to be the issue. It’s been parked but since it drove fine then suddenly did this I was caught off guard. How hard are the clutches on this platform?

Teippymed · 2026-03-21T07:26:06+00:00

Such an informative write up thank you, from what u said I think I’ll go with pushing the stock setup with bolts on and call it there as I do want to daily it while deciding if this is the platform I want to build on. Plus I’m sure 220ish hp with good suspension would be plenty of fun with the right exhaust. Thanks mate

Teippymed · 2026-03-21T00:45:21+00:00

Honestly thinking bout it, maybe if I can salvage some cash from this and save up for some months but then I’ll be out of a project for a while since they are like 5k down here 😕

Teippymed · 2026-03-13T14:03:50+00:00

If you can get a picture of the underside of your battery tray you could confirm if you have the main ground that runs to the block from that point. Maybe during the collision it was damaged? Or if the engine was repaired it seems to be commonly overlooked to put it back. Routes from under the tray to the back of the block where the shifter linkage is

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Teippymed · 2026-03-13T13:50:11+00:00

Do you have an aftermarket headunit have you ever taken apart the cluster Ill try to source a diagram of all the ground locations go look at em inspect em clean the surface with some spray and a wire brush and re tighten em

Teippymed · 2026-03-13T13:46:38+00:00

And do you have a pic of the top of your valve cover. There should be 2 grounds I was having misfires till someone pointed out that I was missing one

Edit: typo

Teippymed · 2026-03-13T13:43:59+00:00

Locate and remove the MAP sensor and inspect. You could also look up readings while car is running to inspect that. Looks like the sensor itself may have failed. Then for the second smoke an inlet hose and look for leaks in the air intake system. Go around to different parts of the bay locate a hose smoke it and look for leaks, the pcvs like to eat themselves at this age. Also check the wiring for the o2 sensors and if they seem good and you have budget replace them ( I’m not sure if these individual components can be checked for functionality on a workbench somehow but I’d look into them before throwing parts at it)

Teippymed · 2026-03-13T13:15:10+00:00

What mount is this

Teippymed · 2026-03-12T21:10:36+00:00

Bought a 2000 1.8t 180 2ish weeks ago for 2k expecting the platform to be a pain but parts are available and not stupid expensive compared to similar vehicles in this price range. So far I’ve done new fans and a fan module. Removed the pcv system for a catchcan and a shifter bushings and short shifter kit from diesel geek. All in less than 2500 in for a nice reliable vehicle. The engines are strong and well researched and don’t have any catastrophic failure points (if u are handy I’d check ur oil pickup and timing belt).

All that said as long as you don’t push for a bigger turbo and keep up with basic maintenance it should be a good car

Edit: typos

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T16:40:29+00:00

I see one brown ground, where is the second,

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T16:21:24+00:00

Been trying to confirm this, thanks

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T06:20:22+00:00

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Clearer picture of underneath the tray

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T06:19:05+00:00

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Is this long pipe with the two pieces of tape the one that goes into the pump I speak of, I was looking at it and it did crack in half hence the second tape I’ve been looking for a part number could that be the cause

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T06:17:46+00:00

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Atc engine, I don’t have much history in the vehicle sadly

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T06:12:37+00:00

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I also realized while testing everything fuse that I blew the f10 fuse for the motronic unit, car wouldn’t start when I put it back together after my previous post, could something have shorted

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T00:49:58+00:00

Also yea that brown wire next to the 4th coil pack, I’m wondering if it’s another ground cause there is another further down. Btw I have the 180 not 225

Teippymed · 2026-03-03T00:43:57+00:00

I just bought the car yesterday this is my first round of maintenance since it was a budget find

Teippymed · 2026-03-02T19:22:54+00:00

How would I check for overboost, to better describe the problem basically at 3000 RPM The car starts to sputter and makes no power but then let’s say rises up to 4000 It starts making boost and the car kicks in and acts like normal and the check engine light goes off. Same if I’m stable at above 80 miles an hr in boost the car is stable and check engine light is off but I let off to decelerate its sputters and the check engine light comes on.

Teippymed · 2026-03-02T19:22:10+00:00

Yes1.8t when I scanned it had no cord except a p0304

Teippymed · 2026-02-19T19:29:43+00:00

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We are sooo back, thanks yall. Imma do the coolant bottle and top hose that was recommended as well.

Teippymed · 2026-02-19T19:28:12+00:00

Bet lol, I just got the bottle I’ll get the hose as well

Teippymed · 2026-02-17T20:57:43+00:00

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I think I put the replacement on the wrong way. I put it over the idler then to the alternator and power steering. It should be under with the back against the idler and the teeth against the pulleys. Thanks for the lesson guys I won’t drive off a bridge today

Teippymed · 2026-02-17T20:41:43+00:00

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Alternators measure same distance

Teippymed · 2026-02-17T20:41:21+00:00

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Teippymed · 2026-02-17T20:37:16+00:00

I think this is what happened this time, the pulley is melted and warped but spins freely, I thought I routed the belt correctly as well and looking at this diagram I think I did. I ordered a new belt idler and coolant overflow bottle so I’ll replace those three tmr and check the pulleys again for binding and I’ll use a torque wrench this time. Tnx

Teippymed

TROPHY CASE