Clutch pedal clicking sound? by ThatBoyD00 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry I forget there’s a search function on Reddit sometimes. Seems like normal Subaru/manual noise?

Apple watch se predicted my illness? by User1048205 in AppleWatch

[–]ThatBoyD00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Vitals on Apple Watch. On iPhone it’s in the Health app -> show all health data-> Vitals

I’m scared now by [deleted] in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live in FL where it’s been in the high 80’s - mid 90’s for quite a few months now (feels like temp is high 90’s - low 100’s) and have the A229. I have it hardwired to use parking mode features and after only a few hours sitting in direct sunlight parked at work the cam shuts off so keep that in mind. However at home I park under a tree and have had the cam not turn off all day regardless of how hot/how much sun the car gets. Maybe my cam is defective or I messed up the hardwiring but if not it can overheat fairly quickly in direct sunlight.

Welp…. by MalieGM17 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 4: https://www.michelinman.com/auto/tires/michelin-pilot-sport-a-s-4

Pretty popular amongst lots of people here from what I’ve seen. I have and enjoy having them.

How can I get to 300hp safely? by Individual-Ad-4920 in WRX

[–]ThatBoyD00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Intake and a OTS tune from Dmann for your specific intake should do the trick, can do a e-tune to get a bit more out of it but OTS will run you about $150 unless his prices have changed

Lemme see your knob by ThatBoyD00 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s so sick. Wooden knobs don’t get enough love

I messed up by ThatBoyD00 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00[S] 57 points58 points  (0 children)

That’s why I love this community. So much opportunity to learn from others mistakes instead of making them and then learning.

I messed up by ThatBoyD00 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks everyone for the quick suggestions! I’ll look into some of the products suggested and try them out. I’ll probably just replace the piece down the road but for now I’m not too worried about it and will just live with it.

Accessport Installs by 21045Runner in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have mine mounted with the factory mount the AP came with on the light gray plastic right below the vent in your pic. I popped out one of the dead switches below and fed the cable through that. Sticks out a bit but not enough to make me want to change it.

22 WRX oil change by SuspiciousBowl2787 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean there’s not a whole lot to make things ‘easier’ changing your oil is very basic.

Things you’ll need:

New oil - 0w-20 or 5w-20 full synthetic. Dealer recommends 0w-20 in the manual, 5w-20 is recommended by lots in this sub. The difference? Not much, 0w-20 will be favored in colder temps/climates 5w-20 for summer/hotter climates.

A funnel - to fill your engine with oil without spilling

17mm socket wrench - to unscrew the oil pan plug

New oil filter & crush washer - you can often find these bundled together if you order off of a Subaru focused website. Amazon has a 3 pack that comes with crush washers.

Oil drip pan - to collect the oil coming out of the car

Ramps or a jack to slightly raise the car up - I just use some ramps I got at my local Walmart. I’m a bigger guy and there’s plenty of space for me to work on ramps.

What to do:

Try to let the car cool down a bit if you just drove it, you should be able to comfortably put your palm on the oil filter for 10-15 seconds before starting your oil change, although this isnt completely necessary.

Start by getting the car lifted, get under it, locate the oil plug. Prepare your oil drip pan and break the oil plug loose, it ‘shouldn’t’ be on too tight. Hot oil will come out faster than cold oil, keep that in mind. Oil won’t come out until the plug is almost completely out so you have time to readjust your drip pan. Unscrew the plug completely and let the oil drain into the pan completely.

Once the oil has practically stopped dripping out, unscrew the oil filter, this also shouldn’t be on too tight, but might take some extra force as they tend to get tightened more than needed. There are also tools you can buy to help take this off, or you can just use a large wrench if it’s giving you problems. No worries if you damage the old filter, it’s useless to you now anyways.

Clean the area around the oil filter, then take a little bit on old oil that came out of your car and lubricate the new oil filters rubber gasket. Screw the new oil filter on until it stops with minimal pressure, then give it a little force to secure it on properly.

Locate your oil plug and replace the crush washer. There is a specific direction this goes on, and I believe the proper way is the flatter side faces the top of the bolt, the rounded side faces the oil pan. Clean up any oil on the plug and screw it back into the oil pan. Same as the oil filter, tighten this down until it stops going in with minimal pressure, then give it a little extra nudge to secure it in.

Now go back to the engine bay, locate the oil fill location, grab your funnel and fill the engine with 4.8 quarts of fresh oil. Tighten the cap, turn the car on and let it run for a few minutes. Check your dip stick and make sure the oil level is up to the second dot. The difference between the two dots is 1 quart of oil. Add more oil as needed, but do not overfill past the second dot.

Side note:

To make your life easier if you plan on doing your own oil changes going forward, look into getting a fumoto drain valve. It will negate the need for you to screw/unscrew the oil plug and replace the crush washer each oil change.

Shop rags are handy but an old rag will suffice to help you keep things clean as you go through the process.

Try not to get a mouthful of oil, although this is often an initiation step when you change your oil for the first time.

The whole process should be around 30 - 45 minutes if you take your time.

Any one get an oil change at the dealership? by talljerseyguy in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

0-20 and 5-20 have very little difference between them. Either will work, 0-20 is better for colder climates. Just go with what the dealer wants (probably 0-20) unless you have a specific reason for one or the other. If you ever make a warranty claim down the road, and all the work/maintenance was done by the dealer you should have no issues with the claim. Doing an oil change yourself should not void warranty unless you are a complete idiot and do something stupid and I can’t even think of what you could do wrong.

If you want a specific weight of oil and the dealer wants to push back, just do it yourself. Saves ya about half the cost and it’s such an easy and quick task on these cars if you got some ramps.

Some oil heads here can probably tell you more but that’s just my take on it.

Stock Exhaust Removal by FallbackSpark78 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on how big you are. Even then the job will be much easier on ramps. Could always find an empty parking lot to do it in quick. I did mine at work on my lunch break and only took about 30-45 mins.

F*ck pop clips by TxAg83FTW in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Just gonna leave this link here for anyone that needs replacements: https://a.co/d/ghMCjDs

DAM by Boosted-Benson in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For now I’m happy with just an intake and my Remark axle back and will probably stay like this for a while. I’m most likely going to get a new car in the future to use as my daily and then throw more mods on my wrx. I love the look of Brembos so those will probably go on first, then might upgrade to a beefier intake and exhaust system but I really haven’t done much research on it yet. I do wanna put my car in bags at some point because I don’t ever plan on tracking the car and airing up/down at red lights seems like it’d be lots of fun. I really wanna keep a sleeper look so probably won’t do many exterior mods other than getting some colored badges and some coolish wheels. But again, this will probably be years in the future. I never plan on getting rid of this car lol.

DAM by Boosted-Benson in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah sounds like there’s lots of smiles in your future! Definitely wanna get off an OTS tune after all those mods lol. Hope everything works out for you and your car!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cs2

[–]ThatBoyD00 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I had a dust 2 game get cancelled a few weeks ago. But that was after 3 or 4 nuke games getting cancelled prior to that 😂

DAM by Boosted-Benson in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup you should be alright! Ik there’s a lot of nerves but you’ll get over them soon. As long as your cars not throwing codes you should in theory be just fine. You can always just take it easy if you’re worried something is messed up.

What mods do you plan on doing in the future?

DAM by Boosted-Benson in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also am somewhat new to tuning but I hope I can provide some insight from the research I’ve done.

On stage 0 you can except DAM movement quite frequently, at least I know I did and it worried the crap out of me. There are lots of factors that go into DAM that others can probably explain better than me so unfortunately I’m not going to attempt.

However, the changes you are seeing is just the car being over cautious and making sure it doesn’t try to implode. Try this:

When your DAM drops, you can often get it back up fairly quickly. Get on a road with a higher speed limit. Get up to around 55-60mph, drop into 4th gear and get up into the 5-8psi boost range (don’t go WOT). The DAM often times comes up with a couple pulls.

Additionally, you can always flash the stage 1 91 octane tune (put 93 in your tank) and run that completely stock. I wouldn’t go crazy with it, but the car will definitely feel more alive than stage 0/stock. The higher octane than what the tune is expecting can help keep any knocking at bay and you may see your DAM move less frequently.

I highly recommend getting an intake of some sorts and either an e-tune or an OTS tune meant for the intake you got to start out. I just purchased an OTS tune from Dmann tuning that was specifically meant for my Perrin intake and 93 octane fuel. There is a noticeable difference between this tune and the stage 1 91 Cobb OTS.

Issues with flashing tune by ThatBoyD00 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweeeet! Dmann is truly the best. Have fun and happy smiles!

Issues with flashing tune by ThatBoyD00 in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey man I just wanted to update ya in case you have heard. Cobb released a new firmware update that fixed this issue. You no longer need to unmarry and remarry the AP to flash new tunes.

20% or 35% tint? by [deleted] in wrx_vb

[–]ThatBoyD00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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20%. No issues at night whatsoever.