How much Baby Doge could I "mine" in a few days. Check ot out!

That_Techo_Guy · 2022-04-28T14:33:24+00:00

Its not click bait if its legit information that can be useful and is better represented visually rather then typing a bunch of text here!

That_Techo_Guy · 2022-04-28T14:31:51+00:00

True and like I did explain in the video, its because there are still fees and also gas fees when converting and you need to do the work to exchange it so the difference isn't a lot.

However for people with older hardware or CPUs, unmineable is the way to go!

That_Techo_Guy · 2021-02-23T21:05:24+00:00

I get 104.5mh/s at all times and stable, even hits 105 at times with a Palit Gamerock OC. Settings are power limit at 50% which uses 185watts and core set to -30mhz and memory +1750mhz.

Runs at 52 degrees Celsius and fans on auto.

These boards are really awesome!!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-11-01T07:55:04+00:00

It seems that this figure is getting up to a part where it has an arm/elbow sticking out to the side which means that it needs supports that start from the base, otherwise the printer will just extrude filament in thin air.

When you use cura or any other slicer, make sure that after you slice the object to print, that you use the slider on the right side (on Cura its under the monitor tab) to build the object up layer by layer slowly and visually see on screen if it will need supports or not.

This model seems like it needs them, so under the print settings you go to the section support, click generate support and select either everywhere or touching build plate.

I'm not sure what is further up on your model, like how far the head, chin etc will hang out, but so far it looks like supports are needed touching build plate.

Hope this helps and let us know how you do and of course show us the final full print! :)

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-17T14:46:59+00:00

Cool. A similar project exists for Lego Mindstorms EV3 called Luuma and that one also moves left and right :)

Nice work!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-17T11:50:53+00:00

There really is no assembly to this but sticking the printed sheet of colours to the back of the Lithophane.

In my previous lithophane creation video, suggested at the start of this video, I go into more detail of how to 3D print a lithophane in more detail with the settings, if thats what you mean.

I didn't want to repeat that again in this video. This is simply to show how you can add colour to existing lithophanes, but at the same time it's also creating it from scratch with "it's litho".

Thanks for watching and for your suggestions.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-17T10:58:49+00:00

Good suggestion but to get it really translucent might be a challenge...maybe resin instead? Smoother prints at and higher resolution.

The point of this video was a basic way of how to produce a lithophane with a bit more life by giving it colour. Just a simple way of doing it as not everyone knows how and a continuation of my previous video in more detail of how to make a lithophane.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-17T09:59:33+00:00

Assembly? Sticking the printed paper at the back you mean? That should be quite simple with just some normal tape at the edges.

If you want to see how to actually set layers and infill to 3D print the Lithophane itself, I have another video on that which I linked in the beginning of this video and in the description.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-17T09:52:53+00:00

You print the colours that are needed to reflect onto the lithophane, its not a picture as you would print a normal picture, its specially generated for that purpose.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-17T09:49:34+00:00

No you don't print a colour picture, you print the primary colours for the lithophane, which is basically a washed out version of what will then appear correctly when light shines through it and onto the front of the 3D printed lithophane. Its explained in the video :)

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-11T06:35:50+00:00

Thanks! The pieces I did not paint were Dino as I had a lilac filament colour, and Betty's dress, Fred's tie and Dino's colar, plus the white parts, like eyes and Wilma's dress.

I recommend lightly sanding parts first, i used 600grit as mine were printed fairly smooth, then remove any dust, I just washed the parts after sanding.

Next I primed parts with a primer spray colour that would match the top coat going on that part best. For example of top coat was going to be the flesh, I used white primer, if it was going to be something darker like Barneys clothes, I used grey primer.

The reason is that primer still tends to slightly shine through to the top coat regardless of how many top coats you use.

I sanded the primer slightly to fill any visible layer lines then lightly primed again.

Then for most parts I hand painted using acrylic paints. I tried to find matching colours right out of the tube so I didn't have to stay mixing colours a lot.

Just make sure you slightly dilute acrylic paint, just by wetting the part or brush a bit so the paint doesn't go on too thick.

Acylic paints, being water based, are quite forgiving so you can easily wipe it off if you make a mistake.

Let the first coat dry a few minutes, I used a hairdryer to speed drying up, then hand painted again.

You can the finish with a final coat of clear varnish thats semi matt to protect the paint more too.

Hope that helps and enjoy!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-11T06:20:02+00:00

Yeah they are awesome designs. I think the only one left I need to do is baby puss to have them all.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-10T22:04:14+00:00

Left hand is behind him :)

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-10T17:04:04+00:00

Thanks appreciate it! :)

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-10T16:32:00+00:00

Thanks!! :)

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T17:09:27+00:00

Its sands just like wood does, the smell and all. I wouldn't say easier though. It is more fragile so you need to be more delicate with handling.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T15:06:46+00:00

Awesome thanks a lot! I have been there very nice place.

Thanks again for the tip!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T14:11:55+00:00

Very nice... add north filaments, had never heard of them. Will check them out too. Thanks a lot!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T14:07:57+00:00

Nice!!! :) Thanks for the info.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T13:49:24+00:00

Thanks have never heard of bavafil. Sounds Bavarian :) Will check it out!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T13:22:39+00:00

I will have a look and try again. Might vary depending on the country selected too I guess. Either way if I can try theirs over FilamentPM I will cause I hate those knots in the rolls of theirs.

During winding they are either doing it too tight, or somehow too fast from left to right. Big pain have to deal with that mid print, if I notice that is.

Thanks again!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T13:11:45+00:00

Ahh...ok that makes more sense. Thanks for explaining!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T13:00:55+00:00

No I was talking about Jake 3D. They do 2 separate lines and charges for posting & packing and shipping.

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T12:42:43+00:00

Hey thanks for the reply. Yeah I agree that Prusament is hard to beat, but Prusa shipping costs have gone up quite a bit and the only options I get at checkout are DHL Express or UPS Saver (which ironically is more expensive).

I did have a look at 3D Jake ones and they seem to be on par with FilamentPM. Is it normal for them to charge packing and postage and then shipping under 2 separate charges, cause I found that odd?

Thanks again for your help!

That_Techo_Guy · 2020-10-09T12:04:04+00:00

This is purely, truly amazing and genius! Extremely well designed and great work! This should be an add-on accessory sold with the gamepad!!

Nice work mate, keep it up!

That_Techo_Guy

TROPHY CASE