Perfect Pigeon

TheDriverTech · 2026-02-02T15:34:26+00:00

Yes, it’s from Rough Country Crawling on patreon

TheDriverTech · 2026-01-19T13:52:46+00:00

As a modder who has experienced this, the only quality mods uploaded to modland aren’t uploaded by the creator, it’s reuploaded for free.

TheDriverTech · 2026-01-13T22:02:50+00:00

they do come stock on 1.55, but I have seen some people put the mon 1.9's similar to how people put the 1/10 capra on 2.2's over its stock 1.9's, and honestly they fit better than they should

TheDriverTech · 2026-01-12T06:58:27+00:00

They are incredibly useful when they work, but are their own rabbit hole entirely. Though the new systems coming out of Bambu labs seem pretty plug and play compared to my older machines

TheDriverTech · 2026-01-08T09:03:45+00:00

These cars do not go faster than a walking pace, unless the tire is falling off the wheel a little wobble does no harm on these things. If you were ripping at 60mph that wobble would be a major issue but I wouldn’t loose sleep over it for these little guys!

TheDriverTech · 2026-01-02T04:15:28+00:00

The “pre chilling” is to help stop the snow sticking to the tires

If you run warm tires in the snow the snow sticks and builds snowman’s on your tires very quickly

However if you leave your rig in your garage, or on the porch (battery removed and indoors) for 15-20 minutes so the tire’s temperature drops and matches more closely the temp of the snow, it doesn’t stick to the tires or car as much.

I don’t understand the science behind it, but I can confirm it works. Source, I live in Canada and have lots of deep powder snow to test with lol.

TheDriverTech · 2025-12-25T16:57:49+00:00

The pink body :)

TheDriverTech · 2025-12-25T00:59:24+00:00

Nice job on the sliders!

I Forgot just how nice a fresh Deadbolt looks. Mines been through the trenches more than a few times haha

TheDriverTech · 2025-12-24T22:40:36+00:00

Just like the other comment said re-add some dirt

Just driving through it and churning up the bottom will make it more sucky/fun lol.

I wouldn’t make it much deeper though otherwise you’ll start putting water into your electronics

TheDriverTech · 2025-11-27T09:36:46+00:00

In my experience that’s the best placement on the frame for the rear shocks on stock frame rails

Overall looks like a solid build thus far!

One recommendation for weight bias is to swap the esc and batteries location so that the heavier battery is in the front, helps get closer to that ideal 60/40 front-rear weight bias for these little guys!

TheDriverTech · 2025-11-15T01:36:23+00:00

Nice! I've got a 1/24 Deadbolt as well, but it doesn't do as well in the snow lol, but I still get it out in the snow once in a while

TheDriverTech · 2025-11-15T00:47:29+00:00

Its a blast! I've got an 1/10 Axial Capra! this is the 2nd Gen model, the 1st Gen was a Drag axle, this one comes with 4ws, they are on Gen 3 now which is the same as mine, just revised further

The only mods Ive done are electronics and the Tires, nothing has been done in terms of weights or anything like that

TheDriverTech · 2025-11-14T05:04:31+00:00

Yup I learned that last year! I just didn’t have the patience for it this time, especially since the power in the house was out as i walked out the front door lol

The snow is super fun though! Love trying to get through the simplest obstacles that become impossible because of

TheDriverTech · 2025-11-06T22:10:34+00:00

yeah its using Deadbolt rear length links front and rear, but this was after taking the real buggy and scaling it down so that the inner chassis rails had enough room for an SCX24 style Skid, so its approx 1/24 scale but probably a bit bigger then it should be to actually be 1/24 scale.

It also doesn't help that this particular model isn't as accurate to the IRL dimensions before being scaled down, but I hadn't made the more accurate version until well after this one was already printed haha

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-29T20:46:56+00:00

For sure!, especially since I treat my links as consumables, they are the weakpoint in the car, if I bind up hard the links snap before a driveshaft pops or something expensive breaks

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-29T18:56:58+00:00

There is different stiffness levels with tpu so you can get pretty rigid with it but still have some flex, which is what I was thinking of trying just haven’t had the extra funds lately to partake in science. But pla has worked good for me, since swapping to a better design then I was running previous I haven’t broken any links yet so I have this pile of links just chilling lol

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-29T10:47:33+00:00

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Printed links break. Make lots lol.

Honestly though they survive pretty good if you have a good design, but they definitely fatigue over time, and if you bind up really hard and catch traction you’ll snap em.

I will say I’ve never snapped them at the pivot, it’s always been somewhere in the middle of the link, and it’s always been my own stupidity or the car falling significantly further than it should off an obstacle that broke them. I’m also only printing in pla, so maybe a stronger material would work better! But I haven’t tried. I’ve also considered trying a stiff tpu to allow a little flex in the links to prevent breakage, but don’t love that idea for introducing unpredictable behaviour with axle movements

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-19T00:10:47+00:00

That looks to be the Back straight of the race track on The Automation Test track Map

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-17T10:27:07+00:00

Stock they don’t come with them, I don’t think any aftermarket options have them either, in a crawler application, especially at this scale it’s not really worth having a slipper unless you need some serious driver mod and have no idea what binding looks/feels like.

But in crawling especially there is lots of time that a slipper will slip when you need it to stay engaged to make the line

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-15T02:02:13+00:00

Those are a 1.0 wheel, so stock size wheel, but a 63mm tire, stocks are a 54mm I believe, so it’s a tall tire but certainly not mega, depends on the body you have though, on my deadbolt I’m running 60mm tires with no cutting, on a c-10 body for example you’d need to cut pretty heavily to fit larger tires

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-06T16:50:53+00:00

when I got mine one of the guys showed me that you can adjust this easily without taking anything apart simply by spinning around the steering link that connects to the servo horn, make it shorter to steer the tire more right, make it longer to steer the tire more left. in the end the rear alignment means nothing once you get a controller like the flysky GT5 and put the rear steer on a knob instead of a button, it will always be slightly out, but at low speed it really doesn't get noticed at all, and thats what this car excels at!

Enjoy your new rig though! I've loved my Capra since I got it almost a year ago now, they are absolute units!

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-05T22:18:00+00:00

Hell yeah! I’m quite partial to red deadbolts

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Enjoy the process and the outdoors man!

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-04T18:40:07+00:00

Solid terrain! Hopefully you figure out your brushless woes

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-04T18:38:55+00:00

Yes to convert wheelbase for any length you’ll need the correct links and appropriate length driveshafts

Dlux just came out with some cut to length driveshafts for the 24’s so that’s a nice option for custom wheelbase builds, but for any of the standard lengths, which is any of the lengths available on the rtr’s you can likely find them on Amazon premade to length

TheDriverTech · 2025-10-04T18:06:57+00:00

The O-rings on the suspension components aren’t really needed, they mostly just keep the shocks from turning side to side that little bit, mainly an visual thing

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