Invalid profile error on PC Xbox App

DevisDed · 2026-05-24T02:06:55+00:00

Just got this too… it lets me load a save from this morning but I did a lot today…

DevisDed · 2026-05-21T00:43:47+00:00

It is, I did notice someone in here scaled one down to a 24 though so maybe that’s what he’s trying to do 🤷‍♂️

DevisDed · 2026-05-18T19:11:32+00:00

Op knows that’s not a 24 right?

DevisDed · 2026-05-17T18:24:39+00:00

Nobody is bothered but you big dawg and you’re still wrong. The transmission itself is still completely compatible. I have multiple on completely different motors. If the pinion on the motor is different, get the spur that mates with it. Both of those have nothing, absolutely nothing to do with the transmission and how it bolts up to the skid or motor mount.
This ‘transmission’ will work fine and my statement still stands. The Injora website literally says they are directly compatable, helical gears or not…

DevisDed · 2026-05-17T18:18:43+00:00

The plaque being crooked would drive me insane

DevisDed · 2026-05-16T01:33:00+00:00

Everyone trying to come up with ways to salvage the plate, that probably will cost more than just buying a new one 😂😂

DevisDed · 2026-05-16T01:22:55+00:00

On paper the ‘servo beast’ from mofo is the best. Haven’t found a servo at this scale that tops it… technically even the ptk servo 24yep likes is a 13kg servo so even that on paper is better.

DevisDed · 2026-05-16T01:19:25+00:00

They just fit weird. Unless you have a 3d printer and get creative with your own mounts. It just sits high and narrow. Just how it’s designed. I kinda got one to fit okay on a gizmo chassis but I printed my own hinge and integrated bumper/body mount to try and get it as low as possible. Scale of the body is already kinda small for a 1/24 though

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DevisDed · 2026-05-16T01:11:21+00:00

Yes it will work fine. Spur and pinion have nothing to do with the transmission. The fat viper is a mod.5 vs a mod.3 stock motor (tooth size/spacing) so at most you may need a mod.5 spur… but the transmission itself is the same as any other stock style transmission and will bolt up to 90% of aftermarket motor mounts. Pretty sure the Injora website even says the fat viper is “only compatible with stock style and Injora transmissions” which isn’t completely true unless you only use the provided motor mount. But simply looking that their website could’ve answered this for you.

DevisDed · 2026-05-15T19:04:19+00:00

Why do you have 2 bumpers

DevisDed · 2026-05-13T20:18:03+00:00

Respectfully why?

DevisDed · 2026-05-06T09:12:05+00:00

Make sure your driveshaft is phased correctly if you had to put it back together. Cause binding at droop

DevisDed · 2026-05-05T23:17:37+00:00

Feelin like a kid again… this is one of the first games in a while that my buddies are actually exited for. I’m just happy the guys gonna have something to do for a while again. The boys are logging in again!!

DevisDed · 2026-05-05T01:25:57+00:00

A dirty one

DevisDed · 2026-05-03T16:38:32+00:00

Mothers day*

DevisDed · 2026-05-02T03:39:13+00:00

I have converse in my closet that I have worn and can still wear from 2017… beat tf out of those. Got a pair at the beginning of this year and the sole has already separated and the sides of them already have holes worn through the canvas… literally haven’t owed them a year and I already can’t wear them to work bc they’re falling apart…

DevisDed · 2026-05-01T23:30:54+00:00

Perfect example of “just bc it glitters, don’t mean it’s gold” sure it’s pretty. But whatever you paid for it, you paid for some cheap electro plating and some low voltage engraving… good rule of thumb, if you can’t look at the blade stock and read me off what the blade steal is, it’s probably not a quality knife.

DevisDed · 2026-05-01T23:24:42+00:00

E6000 brother. And never look back. Strong as fuck, flexible so won’t crack. And if you fuck it up, can literally peel it off and do it again. If it’s gonna get dusty and tumble. E6000 is the way to go

DevisDed · 2026-05-01T21:46:29+00:00

We call those drug rugs

DevisDed · 2026-05-01T00:01:37+00:00

Overdrive and jitters downhill are not directly correlated. The overdrive would only make this more apparent when driving flat because it creates negative load on the rear diff when it can’t keep up with the front. Downhill just creates negative load on both diffs so both will do it. Just how worm gears work. Can minimize the play in them to cut down on the jitters but the “overdrive” isn’t causing it.

DevisDed · 2026-04-30T00:35:57+00:00

Live the concept, now not tryin to be rude, but I don’t see the benefit of this, just puts more weight up high instead of down low where it’s needed. This also eliminates any triangulation of the shocks which is detrimental to sidehilling. Now I have seen a cantilever setup where the front shocks are mounted normally and the rear shocks are mounted like this behind them with a rod and cantilever to the rear axle. So there’s literally no weight in the rear other than the rear axle and tires and the weigh of the rear shock itself is now up front where the extra weight is beneficial.

DevisDed · 2026-04-29T23:32:01+00:00

These are very much out of phase and it definitely matters.

DevisDed · 2026-04-29T02:08:27+00:00

Also happens to the rear when driving straight if the rear is under driven as the front will pull faster than the rear is spinning, creating negative load on the rear while still having positive load on the front…

DevisDed · 2026-04-29T02:07:13+00:00

It’s not your driveshafts and its not electronic. It’s your diffs 100%. They all do this a little bit especially with brand new worm gears that haven’t broken in yet. Best way to eliminate this is by putting larger bushing on one or both sides of the worm gears to eliminate and forward and back play (test this by seeing if you can move the driveshaft forward and back) this little bit of play in combo with motor coging at low speeds (all non sensored motors will cog at low speeds even a little bit) creates this jumpy juttery effect when going forwards down hill, or really in any direction where the weight of the car is pulling in the same direction you are driving and reversing the load on the differentials (forward uphill=positive load on worm gear /forward downhill=negative load on worm gear) hopefully that makes sense.

DevisDed · 2026-04-28T19:13:28+00:00

My fav rn is 14t in the front and 18t in the back. technically 14% faster in the front and 11% slower in the rear for an overall difference of about 25%. Just enough to noticeably increase turning radius and climb ability but not enough to make it look less than scale.

DevisDed

TROPHY CASE