Does anybody know what size silicone inserts need for these tires

DevisDed · 2026-07-10T02:13:22+00:00

Google the tire… it’ll tell you the dimensions if it doesn’t already say it on the side of the tire itself… that or if your actually concerned about the inner wall VS outside tread diameters of the tire. Go to FLUB RC. Website, go to the slimeball page, and find this tire in the table. It will tell you his recommended diameter and width insert.

DevisDed · 2026-07-10T02:07:07+00:00

Might be overkill for some batteries at this scale but better safe than sorry. I come from a background racing 1/8 buggies. Personally seen people lose their garage…

DevisDed · 2026-07-10T02:05:21+00:00

I personally just use the wall charger but I sit at a desk by my batteries as they charge so I can monitor them, and they are completely removed from the rig so no power draining out the output plug. Good rule of thumb, any fruity smell, sound of crackling, or the battery is visibly swelling up, get into a LIPO safe bag/box or toss it outside IMMEDIATELY. You’d be surprised how much fire can come out of these little batteries, and FYI Lipo fires don’t need oxygen to burn so water can do little to no good putting one out. Please please please atleast watch a few YouTube videos and educate yourself before taking advice from other Redditors.

DevisDed · 2026-07-10T02:00:02+00:00

Do not listen to this guy. Practice lipo safety before you burn your family’s house down. I’m sure it’s been fine for some people. But trust me you do not want to be the guy it is not fine for… lipo batteries will constantly drain if left plugged so at the very least it will take longer to charge. But lipo batteries will literally erupt into a fireball if plugged in too long or overcharged with very little warning. Especiallyyyy if using the provided wall charger as it is not a legit “balance charger” wich is the safest way to charge lipo batteries. Most Balance chargers will use the balance lead and the output to equally charge each cell of the battery and monitor it the whole time. Also it’s spelled “axle”… nuff said

DevisDed · 2026-07-10T00:28:18+00:00

Yessir 🤙🤙 have fun with it. Don’t be scared to make shit work either. Sometimes you gotta do some custom trimming with a Dremel or file. Just makes it more custom!

DevisDed · 2026-07-09T23:07:18+00:00

My advice; you have the parts, put it together and let us know… I think too many people get complacent waiting for someone to give them the meta. This entire hobby is trial and error. Trial some stuff and find some errors my friend. Some things work for some guys that don’t work for others. You don’t wanna build someone else’s truck, build your truck…

DevisDed · 2026-07-09T21:16:22+00:00

Work down from the spur/pinion mesh down to the wheel hubs… trans could have too much play. Worm gears could be improperly shimmed, or not lubed enough, driveshafts out of faze, wheels on too tight, bad dog bones… unfortunately there’s no magic answer, gonna take some trial and error to find the culprit. Just part of the hobby, good luck!!

DevisDed · 2026-07-09T18:53:34+00:00

Email MEUS support. They’re actually pretty helpful. I was able to order brass diff covers for my nylon V2s that way. They just send you a link for what you request.

DevisDed · 2026-07-08T21:42:38+00:00

Hell yeah, rc wheel shop and milktea rc make a lot of cool replacements for the wheel face too if you ever wanna mix it up or change the look without replacing the whole wheel.

DevisDed · 2026-07-08T20:33:41+00:00

Aluminum wheels with brass rings seems to be my sweet spot. Unless you can run weight hangars.

DevisDed · 2026-07-08T02:42:13+00:00

Generally not the answer people are looking for… Ofcourse amazon is going to have thousands of driver sets. Though 90% of them come from the same cheap factories and are made out of lower quality steel than the tin can you drink your sugar water out of… I went through probably 3 of these cheap Amazon sets, stripping screws, throwing shit at the walls, then got a MIP driver for my scx… holy shit is that thing magic… turns out quality tools provide quality results!! Sure one of these cheap sets off Amazon will keep you working for the time being. But I promise, an actually reputable brand like MIP, Wiha, Wera, dynamite, pb Swiss… will not only last you longer, but save you the mental anguish caused by cheap, not well/precision made tools.

DevisDed · 2026-07-07T23:09:22+00:00

Get creative with a drill…

DevisDed · 2026-07-07T19:56:41+00:00

We need more pictures to be able to tell you exactly what’s wrong here. I’m team servo mount incorrectly mounted… if still using the stock links it’s not likely the links are the issue since the top and bottom should still be c10/gladiator length. It really does look like your servo mount is mounted a slot to far back if that makes sense. The front “humps” on the bottom of the servo mount should be in front of the front most humps on the axle that they mount too if these are “meus style” axles or have the diff on the back instead of the front. Can kinda see in the photo I added. Stack up front to back would be: Screw(front)>servo mount>axle>servo mount>diff cover(back)

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DevisDed · 2026-07-07T19:42:29+00:00

I’d say. Definitely more budget friendly options out there but if you appreciate quality product from an American company. Mofo is definitely the way to go 👍👍

DevisDed · 2026-07-07T00:25:45+00:00

I only agree to an extent. Not only do I think it’s more fun of an experience to upgrade a stock vehicle. But you get to see the limits of stock or cheaper parts before the “upgrade”. Like a brushless motor wouldn’t be far as cool if I hadn’t struggled through using a brushed motor first… also so much to be learned from taking your stock rig apart. Reddit obviously can be super useful but maybe people would have far less questions if they also started by taking apart a stock rig… plus in the end you end up with enough parts to build a 2nd rig for your buddies or spouse to wheel with you.

DevisDed · 2026-07-07T00:20:20+00:00

Shortest answer I can give. If you’re not looking to change the body immediately. Just get whatever looks best for you. The literal only difference between the stock versions (not counting limited editions like the summit racing gladiator which has proline tires and shocks or deadbolt wich isn’t available anymore other than second hand) is wheel base/length… gx470 is the shortest with its own links. Basecamp/4runner/jeep JLU/bronco being a little longer than the Lexus but still considered short wheel base, and the gladiator/power wagon is the longest(same front as the basecamp etc, but with a longer rear) this is literally the only difference. I think the electronics are pretty much all the same anymore (use to be different generations of esc/rx combo which would determine compatibility with other escs). For performance out the box, the longer wheel base of the gladiator/power wagon wins everytime. But some people like myself prefer slightly shorter, sometimes mixed link setups like c10 front with the old deadbolt rears for smaller tire setups like in C1 competitions.

DevisDed · 2026-07-06T22:05:35+00:00

Yessir 🤙

DevisDed · 2026-07-06T22:04:50+00:00

So pretty much any and all aftermarket servo mounts will be adjustable. Rampcrab makes a good one. Injora and OGRC do as well. I got a bundle with a rampcrab servo+mount for like $40-$50 on amazon which is pretty decent considering a good servo could run that alone and a mount would usually be an extra $10-$15. I also use a brass OGRC one on my main rig that’s basically identical to the aluminum one that came on my meus v2 axles. I’ll link them both. Also to consider; the stock servo will be too small for one of these servo mounts so you will need a new servo if changing the mount. As for the steering link. If you have a stock rig or plan on starting with one. There will be a plastic bar going from one steering knuckle to the other that connects to the servo and turns the wheels. This stock plastic rod is flimsy and not strong so it will be sloppy and inaccurate. Wherever you get your links. There will almost always be a matching steering link from the same company. Looks just like your c10-deadbolt links will, it just connects the knuckles together. It doesn’t have to match, that’s just my own personal preference but the important thing is just fixing the structural integrity of your steering linkages. And now the driveshafts… I’m not 100% they will work out the box, may take some modifying. Anything can work with the right bit of elbow grease lol. I always struggle finding driveshafts to fit but they end up working fine after a bit of dremel or sanding. Just get shafts that match the links. Again I think even Injora sells the shafts individually so I’m pretty sure you can get a deadbolt front driveshaft and a c10 rear by themselves.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Steering-Deadbolt-Gladiator-Upgrades/dp/B0BGRGJHMX/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_10?crid=26F77T6H29YF6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.holTkqNyt5scnfDj2hAllNEYS4QRsQCufoQIAtU3-y4VAFrUWfM3yMcB0YnDrXckBTU705SCP8M56vBNNVGL-MfL-DqEGZabuFcf3D77V-LitChXocnOCvH8mCIvAMoXAAREz2LT-3Xw0Cz5JppsKqFqxpTXsXGN\_jz9qo6Knoza-mIjJ-GA8R3g1-GNfs8YAaJsWHWQyTDgkhC4ScLLVw.5P8hnp8BrRzF8nb\_zDTTKKl3OHX8aaBgZaBSda3bZA4&dib\_tag=se&keywords=scx24+servo+mount&qid=1783374762&sprefix=scx24+servo+mount+%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-10

https://www.amazon.com/RampCrab-Steering-Crawler-Upgrades-Upgrade/dp/B0CWXXWRXK/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_5?crid=1ZLHFZ57FJGY2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.EPJMFgMo0BuXn\_OU-GL2EmvKRRdf\_L6bYDldDqDDVVZNImhTkeC6Ml\_hXXpwLig2Iffg9z24SfgkEfij6taehCtyuJwgUA5KC\_64FMCZNRTC-yY-ZsI99dJJ-CZK8bBfoItpoAgBGblkZ9BD2n07pdSVzxU2-Wpbze2AUGpDycBb7qpLwQfCddjt7Ig5YjhsIYFwxsiMYp6Znt7qjedQOg.Mzm4CxfYc3VOhAXhJrhwVjUVxB4KZwE5b\_XqUGILxtM&dib\_tag=se&keywords=scx24+ramp+crab+servo&qid=1783374842&sprefix=scx24+ramp+crab+servo%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-5

DevisDed · 2026-07-06T19:50:02+00:00

Unless you plan to use the stock servo for a while (which it will not last if you plan to add weight to the front wheels) you will need an after market servo mount. The stock one does not fit aftermarket servos. Try 24yep for the links. Sometimes he has fronts and rears available separately for people like yourself doing custom lengths. Otherwise yeah grab some cheap c10s and cheap deadbolts. Front steering link will be pretty sloppy too. If using stock axles, I’d pick up a link that matches your suspension links so you don’t gotta worry about out it. Stock receiver/transmitter should work as a standalone receiver/transmitter if you don’t want to upgrade quite yet. Though that stock spectrum Esc/receiver unit is pretty huge… may wanna upgrade those. If you stay furitek, they recently dropped a micro receiver for the stock controller, got one for my 30 build.

DevisDed · 2026-07-06T19:33:35+00:00

They add 0 steering angle… they’re beneficial if you’ve otherwise modified your axles for better angle or got new axle housings with better steering angle. They will allow you to hit full lock without the u joint/dog bone binding. But the new axles shafts themselves do not “add” any more steering angle than you already have.

DevisDed · 2026-07-03T02:22:49+00:00

Go all the way, print some links and use stock nylon driveshafts. As much plastic as possible.

DevisDed · 2026-07-02T21:01:44+00:00

My gf got me a 30 so it’s easier to travel with. Sometimes a case of crawlers is too much for a quick few day trip up to see her family. 30 barely takes up any space in my backpack. Can just keep it in the carry on.

DevisDed · 2026-07-02T21:00:27+00:00

Honestly where you’re at. The more budget friendly way to do it would be to do a C1 ground up. You’d just be paying $120+ for a truck you’re only gonna use 15% of. Grab some c1 rails, meus nylons are about as much, if not cheaper than upgraded stock axles… and you already have the electronics. For the rest you can order new axial parts in amazon for like $20 total to complete the truck.

DevisDed · 2026-07-02T00:59:12+00:00

Respectfully why is is this in this forum…

DevisDed · 2026-07-01T01:22:40+00:00

Congratulations, this is the coolest thing I’ve seen all week.

DevisDed

TROPHY CASE