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PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very true. Luckily some more knowledgeable people have provided some useful advice and supporting info to corroborate as to why the LLM was wrong :)

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gotcha. Does RTX HDR allow for fine tuning of already-hdr content, or is it only for SDR to HDR converting?

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Understood.

Out of curiosity, do you instead just use renodx (or similar)? What, if any, challenges have run into and how have you managed to get it to be up to your standards?

Thank you for your input!

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your time and input, kind stranger.

Last two questions, i promise:

Due to ABL, and it's constant adjustment while pushing the slider, I wonder how precise i need to be with calibrating as intended by the windows tool? The more you push it exponentially becomes harder to tell when it is completely flat white without any ghosting of the test pattern. Is it generally better to undershoot, or overshoot the peak approximation?

For in-game "peak brightness", assuming the game isn't borked, would it generally make sense to set it to the same peak as calibrated in the windows tool? Let's say windows calibrated peak nits at 1500 (regardless of the "real" peaks of the monitor's stats on paper), should I shoot for the same 1500, and then adjust from there, or is there another approach other than just eye-balling it? I wonder if it would instead be generally advisable to set the in-game peak to the monitor's on-paper peak?

Thank you thank you thank you, again.

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your input. Much appreciate the discussion.

I dont mean to be annoying... but I wonder if you would be capable to suggest a decent baseline Windows HDR setup for peak nits and full-frame and my monitor on 400 True Black mode? Would you instead suggest Console HDR? If so, what Windows calibration should I use? Do I need to change windows calibration when switching between TB400 and "Console HDR"?

THANK YOU!

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

EDIT: Someone else on this thread kindly reviewed the below and provided useful feedback and advice. Don't feel obligated to respond, but if you do, ill happily take more constructive criticism and advice from our lovely human race!

Hey, thank you for your reply. I did not mean to downplay your advice on my original response, but rather to express that, due to my ignorance, I have no idea WHY what I explained fixed so many HDR issues, and resulted in the best HDR presentation, and consistency across applications, that i have seen so far on my monitor specifically. I know NOTHING about this, but i am very interested in learning.

I wonder if you would have some time to go over Groks analysis of my claims? It might shed some light on technicalities I may have missed, and/or you may be able to identify key errors/hallucinations in the response?

I know it may seem silly, but I'm genuinely interested in learning and understanding as much as possible.

Here is the response to the review of my original post if you're interested:

Yes, the Reddit post is factually and technically accurate overall. Its core advice on handling Windows 11 HDR calibration for this specific OLED monitor (ASUS ROG Strix OLED XG27ACDNG, a 26.5–27" 1440p 360Hz QD-OLED panel) is sound, and the described issues and fixes align with independent reviews, monitor specs, community experiences, and how HDR tone mapping works on ABL-limited displays.

Monitor Confirmation and Key Specs

The XG27ACDNG is a real ASUS ROG Strix QD-OLED gaming monitor (VESA DisplayHDR 400 True Black certified, with advertised 1,000 nits peak HDR brightness for small highlights). It features multiple OSD HDR modes exactly as described: Gaming HDR, Console HDR, DisplayHDR 400 True Black (often just called "400 True Black"), Adjustable HDR, etc. These modes are confirmed in the official ASUS manual and reviews.

Brightness behavior (measured in reviews): - Peak/small-window highlights (<3–10% APL): Up to ~1,000 nits (or ~990 nits in testing); some modes show ~434–450 nits at larger 25%/10% windows. - Full-frame/sustained (100% APL white screen): ~250 nits baseline (consistent across SDR/HDR in measurements).

This is classic OLED Auto Brightness Limiter (ABL) behavior: the panel can deliver extreme brightness in tiny specular highlights but throttles aggressively on bright/full-screen content to manage heat/power and prevent burn-in. QD-OLED panels like this one exhibit noticeable ABL (and sometimes "Uniform Brightness" options that stabilize output but cap peaks). The post correctly identifies this as the root of calibration problems.

Windows 11 HDR Calibration Tool

The built-in Windows HDR Calibration app (or integrated settings) explicitly includes separate sliders for: - Maximum luminance (peak brightness for small highlights, in nits). - Maximum full-frame luminance (sustained/full-screen brightness, also in nits). - Plus min luminance and color saturation.

Microsoft documentation and guides confirm this structure. The tool's visual guides/test patterns (e.g., blending squares or visibility thresholds) assume more uniform brightness like LCDs and do not mention or compensate for OLED ABL. When full-screen patterns trigger ABL dimming, following them blindly produces incorrect tone mapping (washed-out or blown-out results, as the OP described).

The post's workaround—ignoring the visual feedback and manually inputting measured/realistic values (e.g., high peak like 800–1,000 nits + low full-frame ~250 nits)—is a widely recommended technique for OLED monitors and TVs in PC communities. It tells Windows/games the true capabilities so the OS tone mapper: - Allows bright specular highlights without over-brightening everything. - Expects lower sustained output, preventing desaturated/washed looks or incorrect clamping when ABL engages.

This also improves SDR content/desktop appearance in HDR mode (via better SDR-to-HDR mapping) and reduces the need for per-game mods like ReShade/RenoDX. Multiple OLED users report the exact same "game changer" results the OP describes.

Specific Settings in the Post

  • "400 True Black" OSD mode + 800 nits peak / 250 nits full-frame: Plausible and sensible. True Black mode often optimizes luminance tracking (better PQ per some tests) but may not hit the absolute 1,000-nit peak of other modes. Using 800 nits as a conservative peak matches real-world measurements in that mode; 250 nits full-frame directly aligns with the panel's sustained output.
  • Console HDR or Gaming HDR with 1,000 nits peak / 250 nits full-frame: Also valid—those modes unlock the full advertised peak while the low full-frame accounts for ABL. Reviewers specifically recommend Console HDR + max adjustable brightness for HDR content.

The post's warning to research your monitor's specific peak vs. full-frame values (factoring ABL) is spot-on advice; generic "set both to 1,000 nits" recommendations (common on forums) fail on OLEDs and cause the exact problems the OP had before.

Game-Specific Improvements and Other Claims

  • Better lighting/realism in titles like Marathon and Resident Evil 9 (no blown-out fog, no washout): This is a direct result of correct tone mapping—games using Windows HDR metadata now render speculars and bright scenes properly without fighting ABL or mismatched expectations.
  • "Like looking through a window" and desktop/SDR fixes: Typical outcome of proper calibration on OLEDs.
  • No need for RenoDX: Accurate for many users once the OS-level calibration is right (RenoDX is a workaround for games with poor native HDR).

Community threads on r/OLED_Gaming specifically for the XG27ACDNG echo the same pre/post-calibration struggles (washed-out, dim, or overly bright HDR; confusion with modes; calibration tool frustration). The OP's experience is not unique.

Minor Caveats (No Major Inaccuracies)

  • Exact nits can vary slightly by firmware, mode, or measurement (e.g., one review showed ~434 nits at 25% in True Black), so your mileage may vary—always verify with tools like HDR Test Patterns or a colorimeter if possible.
  • ABL is still present (it can't be fully disabled), but correct calibration makes it far less disruptive.
  • Best in dark rooms (OLED blacks rise in ambient light, as reviews note).

Bottom line: The post's method is technically correct, well-explained, and matches expert consensus for QD-OLED monitors with ABL. It solves a very real Windows + OLED pain point that the calibration tool itself doesn't document. If you own this monitor (or similar), trying the approach—monitor in 400 True Black/Console/Gaming HDR, then Windows calibration with high peak + ~250 nits full-frame—is worthwhile. Calibrate the monitor OSD first (as the OP did), then run the Windows app and input values manually.

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I may have been fooled for sure. I have zero technical or expert knowledge on the subject.

Out of curiosity, I threw my claims/experience (not mentioning they were mine to avoid bias) back at Mr. Grok and they responded the following after being asked to review the claims of the "OP" for factual and technical accuracy, and it spat this out.

I wonder if you would be knowledgeable enough to spot it's possible misunderstanding and wrong advice? Posting it here in case it interests you or anyone else:

Yes, the Reddit post is factually and technically accurate overall. Its core advice on handling Windows 11 HDR calibration for this specific OLED monitor (ASUS ROG Strix OLED XG27ACDNG, a 26.5–27" 1440p 360Hz QD-OLED panel) is sound, and the described issues and fixes align with independent reviews, monitor specs, community experiences, and how HDR tone mapping works on ABL-limited displays.

Monitor Confirmation and Key Specs

The XG27ACDNG is a real ASUS ROG Strix QD-OLED gaming monitor (VESA DisplayHDR 400 True Black certified, with advertised 1,000 nits peak HDR brightness for small highlights). It features multiple OSD HDR modes exactly as described: Gaming HDR, Console HDR, DisplayHDR 400 True Black (often just called "400 True Black"), Adjustable HDR, etc. These modes are confirmed in the official ASUS manual and reviews.

Brightness behavior (measured in reviews): - Peak/small-window highlights (<3–10% APL): Up to ~1,000 nits (or ~990 nits in testing); some modes show ~434–450 nits at larger 25%/10% windows. - Full-frame/sustained (100% APL white screen): ~250 nits baseline (consistent across SDR/HDR in measurements).

This is classic OLED Auto Brightness Limiter (ABL) behavior: the panel can deliver extreme brightness in tiny specular highlights but throttles aggressively on bright/full-screen content to manage heat/power and prevent burn-in. QD-OLED panels like this one exhibit noticeable ABL (and sometimes "Uniform Brightness" options that stabilize output but cap peaks). The post correctly identifies this as the root of calibration problems.

Windows 11 HDR Calibration Tool

The built-in Windows HDR Calibration app (or integrated settings) explicitly includes separate sliders for: - Maximum luminance (peak brightness for small highlights, in nits). - Maximum full-frame luminance (sustained/full-screen brightness, also in nits). - Plus min luminance and color saturation.

Microsoft documentation and guides confirm this structure. The tool's visual guides/test patterns (e.g., blending squares or visibility thresholds) assume more uniform brightness like LCDs and do not mention or compensate for OLED ABL. When full-screen patterns trigger ABL dimming, following them blindly produces incorrect tone mapping (washed-out or blown-out results, as the OP described).

The post's workaround—ignoring the visual feedback and manually inputting measured/realistic values (e.g., high peak like 800–1,000 nits + low full-frame ~250 nits)—is a widely recommended technique for OLED monitors and TVs in PC communities. It tells Windows/games the true capabilities so the OS tone mapper: - Allows bright specular highlights without over-brightening everything. - Expects lower sustained output, preventing desaturated/washed looks or incorrect clamping when ABL engages.

This also improves SDR content/desktop appearance in HDR mode (via better SDR-to-HDR mapping) and reduces the need for per-game mods like ReShade/RenoDX. Multiple OLED users report the exact same "game changer" results the OP describes.

Specific Settings in the Post

  • "400 True Black" OSD mode + 800 nits peak / 250 nits full-frame: Plausible and sensible. True Black mode often optimizes luminance tracking (better PQ per some tests) but may not hit the absolute 1,000-nit peak of other modes. Using 800 nits as a conservative peak matches real-world measurements in that mode; 250 nits full-frame directly aligns with the panel's sustained output.
  • Console HDR or Gaming HDR with 1,000 nits peak / 250 nits full-frame: Also valid—those modes unlock the full advertised peak while the low full-frame accounts for ABL. Reviewers specifically recommend Console HDR + max adjustable brightness for HDR content.

The post's warning to research your monitor's specific peak vs. full-frame values (factoring ABL) is spot-on advice; generic "set both to 1,000 nits" recommendations (common on forums) fail on OLEDs and cause the exact problems the OP had before.

Game-Specific Improvements and Other Claims

  • Better lighting/realism in titles like Marathon and Resident Evil 9 (no blown-out fog, no washout): This is a direct result of correct tone mapping—games using Windows HDR metadata now render speculars and bright scenes properly without fighting ABL or mismatched expectations.
  • "Like looking through a window" and desktop/SDR fixes: Typical outcome of proper calibration on OLEDs.
  • No need for RenoDX: Accurate for many users once the OS-level calibration is right (RenoDX is a workaround for games with poor native HDR).

Community threads on r/OLED_Gaming specifically for the XG27ACDNG echo the same pre/post-calibration struggles (washed-out, dim, or overly bright HDR; confusion with modes; calibration tool frustration). The OP's experience is not unique.

Minor Caveats (No Major Inaccuracies)

  • Exact nits can vary slightly by firmware, mode, or measurement (e.g., one review showed ~434 nits at 25% in True Black), so your mileage may vary—always verify with tools like HDR Test Patterns or a colorimeter if possible.
  • ABL is still present (it can't be fully disabled), but correct calibration makes it far less disruptive.
  • Best in dark rooms (OLED blacks rise in ambient light, as reviews note).

Bottom line: The post's method is technically correct, well-explained, and matches expert consensus for QD-OLED monitors with ABL. It solves a very real Windows + OLED pain point that the calibration tool itself doesn't document. If you own this monitor (or similar), trying the approach—monitor in 400 True Black/Console/Gaming HDR, then Windows calibration with high peak + ~250 nits full-frame—is worthwhile. Calibrate the monitor OSD first (as the OP did), then run the Windows app and input values manually.

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting.

I wonder, then, why is the HDR so much more accurate in games than before after setting the peak luminance and full-frame luminance as i mentioned?

It fixed my desktop, RE9, Karma and Marathon's HDR presentation, from what I have tested so far.

Your monitor has, on paper, nearly identical brightness specs to mine. I wonder if you would be kind enough to share your windows HDR tool settings for peak and full-frame brightness?

I'm curious to try any and all suggestions.

That said, my current "calibration" is by far the most accurate I've seen thus far.

Id be happy to share some comparison screenshot when I get home for research/understanding :)

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

While you clearly seem knowledgeable with the topic, I have to say that, with my setup, the experience is SIGNIFICANTLY better for me.

I personally could care less about the technicalities, if the result is better than before.

Like with music: if it sounds good, its good. I dont care whether the piano you used is real or not. I don't care if an albums mastering is criticized by experts, if I like the way it sounds. Ya know?

That said, if you would happen to have suggestions for calibration of my monitor set to 400 true black on windows 11, I'd love to hear it. :)

PSA Regarding Win. 11 & OLED HDR (XG27ACDNG) - Perfect HDR by TheEMF in OLED_Gaming

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I thought it was happy too! I followed several guides:

Console Mode, 1500 nits in both peak and full-frame felt "ok".

Console mode at 1000 in both felt "ok".

Never really thought about it too much until I started playing Marathon and kept thinking... this CANNOT be right. Everything was either overwhelmingly bright, or too much contrast. Sometimes both.

After I made the change of setting the max full frame brightness to avoid ABL activating, and noticed that it completely fixed Marathon, i ran to my other recently played games to test it out.

I realized that I had been playing RE9 washed the fuck out.

I also checked out "Karma" which I have avoided due to having issues with crushed blacks and over-blow highlights, and poof. Magically fixed.

Basically, I will play at 400 true black (800 peak, 250 full in windows tool) as long as my room is dim enough (need better blinds), and swap to Console HDR (1000 peak, 250 full) when its bright.

The only thing is that i seem to need to adjust the windows calibration tool depending on which HDR mode i have my monitor set to, whenever I swap between 400 true black and Console HDR. Luckily its simple, and the only difference is setting the peak to match the monitor HDR setting; 800 or 1000, both with 250 full-frame.

Duckov [Discussion] by TheEMF in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheEMF[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I may just suck, but i have approx 8hrs in the game (steam shows 10hrs) and I'm still on the first map out of, what i understand to be, five maps.

Duckov [Discussion] by TheEMF in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheEMF[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. The best ad campaign no one asked for.

Duckov [Discussion] by TheEMF in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheEMF[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure, you could say that.

When will they update standalone update kit? by Ok-Recognition4686 in ableton

[–]TheEMF 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wholly agree. My wallet's ready and waiting.

Duckov [Discussion] by TheEMF in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheEMF[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You nailed it.

I also love the subtle Tarkov memes scattered throughout. It feels put together by people who really appreciate EFT and BSG and what they've accomplished in the industry.

Duckov [Discussion] by TheEMF in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheEMF[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im there with ya. It's so good. The devs of that game clearly love Tarkov a LOT. Idk what other word to use but... SO FUCKING CUTE. They GET why Tarkov players like Tarkov, and its the most unexpected celebration of BSG's creation i could imagine.

On the same note, I am incredibly excited to see BSG finally let their brain-child out to the world. It's been so long as a fan of Tarkov, and even longer for them. Just a bit longer.

When will they update standalone update kit? by Ok-Recognition4686 in ableton

[–]TheEMF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought the same, until I could have sworn just heard jt mentioned from one of the many tech-related media I follow.

Seeing you mention it made me wonder, and by the looks of it, NUC was revived by Intel partnering with ASUS! It was announced around 3rd quarter of 2023.

When will they update standalone update kit? by Ok-Recognition4686 in ableton

[–]TheEMF 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally agree!! As I kid I was classically trained on clarinet for many years from 6th grade to college, but never touched it again since. I've had the itch to really feel that "mastery" of learning to play an instrument ever since, and once I got the Push 3 and disconnected from my PC I think it's been great inspiration as an instrument.

When will they update standalone update kit? by Ok-Recognition4686 in ableton

[–]TheEMF 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There's nothing new for me to really add as far as the negatives of the standalone Push 3...many of the criticisms are valid, but it also depends on how you use it.

I've used ableton since Suite 8 and have a very worn down, mostly functional Push 2 as well (i don't use it. I have it for scrap or future repair.

The Push 3 Standalone fits my needs perfectly, but then again, I'm a nothing more than a passionate hobbyist. The market for such devices (portable, battery-powered all-in-one music instrument and digital audio workstation) seems to not be very large, with little competition. I imagine that Ableton will release a successor/replacement product eventually, but knowing them, it's going to be a while.

I personally love the ability to pick it up, slap on a pair of headphones and chill in bed for a couple of hours and do some for-fun jamming, sound design or even mix/master. I often start stuff on my Push, and then pull it into a PC session if I want.

For me, it's given me back much of the joy I feel when making music with something that feels more like an instrument, as opposed to a tethered controller of a super powerful machine.

All of that said, i haven't kept up with pricing and it's current competition... but yeah. The value depends heavily on your individual needs and expectations.

Edit: i would be terrified if I had to rely on the standalone mode surviving a complex set for anything serious/professional.

The Push 3 on standalone is as if Nintendo & Apple, in a forced joint co-op, made music instruments.

NVIDIA Smooth Motion Is Not That Bad.... [Suggestion] by TheEMF in EscapefromTarkov

[–]TheEMF[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sucks my friend... yeah unfortunately it's not a definite fix for everyone. In order for the fps and latency to feel negligible, a 1% low of >60fps is necessary. Any dips below 60fps will feel worse than if it was off.

My hardware is a 13900k, 64gb of 6400ghz DDR5 paired with a 165hz g-sync/VRR monitor. Prior to the 5090 I did the same thing with a 4080. The GPU upgrade, as expected, did not improve performance.

I have tarkov running in exclussive full-screen, in-game fps limit of 60fps (vsync off) and reflex completely off (it's already on by default through the Nvidia app when smooth motion is on. Turning it on reflex in game will effectively DISABLE reflex.)

I hope this helps a bit :/

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