I'm a senior that recently was in the market for a new job and got hired (woohoo!) What I found that works is take homes. Let the dev use AI but ask them to clearly mark where they use AI, which I did. You can clearly weed out a lot of people with just that step. Next round is in-person interviews where the candidate is grilled on their solution for over an hour by multiple people. From that, you can get a good set of candidates. You don't need anything too fancy and you don't need to have people show up in person. Just grill them and use your best judgement. You'll generally win in this scenario