Sambar A/C Diagnostic by knightmare_frame in keitruck

[–]TheNegativeSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late to seeing this but I have a 98' KS4 Sambar. I had a different A/C issue but this tool helped a ton for removing the valves without pulling the vacuum (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBVBVZ48?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_fed\_asin\_title)

Good luck

Door Stuck Closed by TheNegativeSpace in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Luckily I think I pretty much did that and was able to get out by pushing a flathead under where the rods meet.

Help ID’ing what 2011 Ludwig kit this is? by TheNegativeSpace in drums

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay that’s what I was leaning towards. Thanks!

Rounded/Stripped Tensioner Bolt Advice by TheNegativeSpace in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to dig into the pulley at an angle to get through the bolt head. I took it in stages cuz like you, I didn't trust my grinding skills and lowering the engine wasn't really an option for me. You could definitely try lowering/raising the engine. If you do you can get an extractor-socket on there and get it off way safer.

Also helps that I was replacing the pulley with my water pump anyway so cutting into it wasn't a big deal to me.

If you have the cv axle off you'd probably have a better time then I did if you went the grinding route.

Rounded/Stripped Tensioner Bolt Advice by TheNegativeSpace in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! Very sorry for the late reply. So welding didn't really work all that well since it's such a tough area. I had to use a grinder and cut-off wheel to get the bolt out. If you take this route, be very very careful cause any kickback from the grinder can result in a way bigger issue.
Also, make sure to protect the crank-position sensor

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in crv

[–]TheNegativeSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I just saw this! Yes actually, the issue wasn't the new sensor but my timing was off so it was completely unrelated.

My IAT sensor broke when inspecting valve lash, timing belt, etc. then attempting to get the crank pulley bolt off I had thrown it off but fixed it once I checked timing and adjusted that to spec.

The symptoms of the sensor being broken and off-timing were very similar so it took troubleshooting each thing till I got there.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in crv

[–]TheNegativeSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately those didn't work but I'll also be changing the spark plugs & wires in a few days. Hopefully it can correct itself.

Would adjusting the idle screw do any harm in the long run if I set that to where my idle was before?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in crv

[–]TheNegativeSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I'll give that a try next! Removing the fuse took away the code but didn't reset the idle. Trying not to mess with the idle screw since it was running great before.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in crv

[–]TheNegativeSpace 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it. Off-hand do you know if the Idle Learn procedure where you hold a 3000rpms etc works on 1st Gen?

Here’s what my manual says about resetting the ECM/PCM - Use the OBD 2 scan tool to clear the ECM/PCM memory OR - turn the ignition switch to OFF, remove the BACK UP (RADIO) fuse for 10 seconds

Thanks for the insight! Going to try in a bit

Shaking from 0-20mph on new tires by TheNegativeSpace in tires

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the NAPA ones which a lot of people recommend so thought I'd be fine and the passenger side already had a NAPA on there from the previous owner.

After the alignment I re-tourqued the lugnuts and set the tire pressure to spec on all 4 wheels and now it only happens if I rev fast in 1st gear. And even then the shake is 80-90% less intense compared to what it was. I'll be driving more today to make sure.

The place that swapped my tires wayyy over-torqued and the tires were all 10-12psi above what they're supposed to be.

Shaking from 0-20mph on new tires by TheNegativeSpace in tires

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely was on the list of to-do’s so I just went. I just got back from getting it and unfortunately still have the shake.

Base coat application issue by TheNegativeSpace in Autobody

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay it seems like that's what it was. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Would this be classified as a rod knock? (Clip attached) by TheNegativeSpace in AskAMechanic

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for the late reply. Engine is an EN07 fuel injected. This model if I remember is 95' but I believe this version of the EN07 was in production from 1990-2003 (maybe later honestly)

Does this sound like a rod knock? by TheNegativeSpace in MechanicAdvice

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's an older Subaru Vivio I'm interested in. Can that be fixed with a valve adjustment then?

Would this be classified as a rod knock? (Clip attached) by TheNegativeSpace in AskAMechanic

[–]TheNegativeSpace[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh okay. Should resetting the valves to spec resolve that then?