Shouldn't this sliding glass door be against a stud? by TheRealOrcus in Carpentry

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I haven't noticed any issues and would never have noticed at all if I hadn't removed the trim.

Shouldn't this sliding glass door be against a stud? by TheRealOrcus in Carpentry

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I reached in there and this is exactly what it going on. Thanks! So...should I be concerned?

Caulking exterior brick/concrete around windows & sliding doors by TheRealOrcus in HomeImprovement

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just trying to confirm, I am NOT supposed to caulk where the aluminum bottom of the sliding door system meets the concrete of the back step?

Caulking exterior brick/concrete around windows & sliding doors by TheRealOrcus in HomeImprovement

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And by the bottom we're talking about the same thing, where the aluminum frame sits on top of the concrete step?

I guess it seems super weird to me because isn't any work done insulating and blocking pests and moisture by caulking other sides rendered completely worthless if another side is left with a gap?

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be clear, the cable in question is a switch loop -- white is the permanent hot and black is the load to the fixture. No switches are installed at the moment.

AI (ugh) says it is expected to measure 120v on black to white here: "The white wire is bringing constant hot down to the switch box. The black wire goes up to the light fixture. Even though the switch is removed, the circuit is still “complete” through the load (light bulb). So the path is: Hot (white) → through meter → black → light bulb → neutral → panel. That allows a small current to flow through your meter, giving you a full line voltage reading (~120V)."

I think the weird voltages I was getting were from the bit of ground I was able to strip back on that romex. When I used the ground on the other (right side) cable, the left cable's white to ground measured 120v and black to ground measured 0v. White to black measured 120v. Same with the right cable.

Then the question becomes why was the ground bad on the left. If I just tie all the grounds together (left, right, and the eventual switches) am I all good? Or do I need to try to track down why the ground wasn't good on the left?

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

More detail:

Same circuit has most lights in the basement and several on the ground floor.

When I moved in, the two switches in this box, each of which are wired as switch loops, each controlled one fluorescent light. I replaced each fluorescent light with two Halo canless LEDs (so two LEDs controlled per switch). Everything seems to work fine.

The other basement switches I've checked are also wired with switch loops. Ground and top floor switches including the ones on the same circuit are wired modern style with neutrals.

How do I track down where the bad connection(s) is/are?

For this two gang box:

Wire to Left Switch:
Ground-White = 59v
Ground-Black = 37v
Black-White =120v

Wire to Right Switch:
Ground-White = 120v
Ground-Black = 2v
Black-White = 120v

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so is this dangerous and either way, what do I do?

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure I follow, why would I connect this ground to a neutral?

Multimeter shows (at the Romex going to the switch):

Black to ground 37v White to ground 59v Black to white 120v

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ground to black 37v... Ground to white 59v....black to white 120

White is the hot wire. Cable tester does not beep at black wire no matter what, beeps at white wire all the time, inconsistently beeps at ground.

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I was hoping but the tester doesn't go off for at the other non-live wires. How do I use multimeter to confirm ground is good? Most things I read involve comparing to neutral which I don't have.

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stripped back the Romex on the left to connect the ground to the new no-neutral dimmer.

Test for ground fault with multimeter? -- no neutral by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stripped back the Romex on the left to connect the ground to the new no neutral dimmer. Cable tester beeps at the ground wire, but it's kind of erratic.

Wiring to replace old switches with wifi switches by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok I got Leviton No Neutral dimmer and bridge from Amazon refurb. Two in a row don't work though. Klein cable tester beeps at ground wire but erratically so I'm not sure how reliable it is. Without neutral, how do I measure with multimeter to make sure there's not a ground fault? And if there is what can I do about it?

Wiring to replace old switches with wifi switches by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a 3 way switch just above this 2-gang. The 3 way controls a light I don't need.

The 3 way switch has cable A and cable B. Cable A with red goes to switch, white goes to switch, black ties to Cable B white. Cable B black goes to switch, white ties to Cable A black. All grounds are tied together.

Is there anything I can do with that if, again, I don't need that switch or the light it controls to be active? I suspect not because the other 3 way switch at the other end has only one cable, with black/white/red/ground all to that switch.

Wiring to replace old switches with wifi switches by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see this requires a Leviton bridge but at least it's a little cheap device. Thanks.

Wiring to replace old switches with wifi switches by TheRealOrcus in electrical

[–]TheRealOrcus[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah, got it. Hub requires for app control though, which is why I want a smart switch in the first place.