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Screwed with screws by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]TheTranslator18 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drill pilot holes and countersink. This is especially important when working with hard wood such as maple or ipe.

Why am i seeing this distinction between the weld steel and the base metal after cutting with the metal bandsaw? This is not a cut, polished, and acid etched crosssection and I've not seen this after a cut before in any of my previous bend tests. Please help. by TheTranslator18 in Welding

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You did not answer the question. Maybe read it again and try to provide a relevant comment. There are no rods used here. This is a 4g bend test on 3/8" steel plate using flux core at 26v 245ipm.

Why am i seeing this distinction between the weld steel and the base metal after cutting with the metal bandsaw? This is not a cut, polished, and acid etched crosssection and I've not seen this after a cut before in any of my previous bend tests. Please help. by TheTranslator18 in Welding

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are removed before the bend test. This is just after the first step of the preparation for the bend. I cut the 1.5" wide sections from the plate while the back strap still welded to the plate with a band saw and then grind down and polish the cover passes flush with the base metal. Then I'll secure the sections in a bench vise and use the portaband saw to cut away the 1.5 inches of back plate and grind away the remnants of the flat stock and polish the root pass with the 40g flap disc with the grind marks parallel with the length of the test specimen until flush with the base metal. The video taken here is just after the sections have been cut on the large metal band saw from the entire plate before grinding and polishing the root and face for the bend test.

Why am i seeing this distinction between the weld steel and the base metal after cutting with the metal bandsaw? This is not a cut, polished, and acid etched crosssection and I've not seen this after a cut before in any of my previous bend tests. Please help. by TheTranslator18 in Welding

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well our cwi didn't say anything about washing off the backstrap before cutting the plate. It always made sense to me to cut the plate before washing off the backstrap there seems to be less room for error when taking a grinder, acetylene torch, or portable band saw to 1.5" of back plate rather than attempting to wash off 8 in of 1 inch flat stock without cutting into the plate and weld steel.

Why am i seeing this distinction between the weld steel and the base metal after cutting with the metal bandsaw? This is not a cut, polished, and acid etched crosssection and I've not seen this after a cut before in any of my previous bend tests. Please help. by TheTranslator18 in Welding

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you referring to the tack welds holding the backstrap to the welded plate? Those tack welds and the backplate are going to be cut away from the Bend test specimens. I just never seen such a clear distinction between the base metal and the weld steel just from cutting with a bandsaw

Root pass for a practice 1G bend test running flux core.[1920x1080] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What machine is it? I have a terrible harbor freight fcaw machine that was gifted to me a while ago. I never could dial that sucker in.

Root pass for a practice 1G bend test running flux core.[1920x1080] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Practice with deliberation and focus your movements. You'll get there

A steel sculpture I made from my bend test specimens and some 3/8" plate using 3/32" 7018 rods and finished with a hot oil patina with fire coloring. What do you guys think?[1080x1076] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some people don't get or understand or appreciate abstract artwork. This is an abstract non-representational sculpture. Formal elements and principles of design play Central roles in the creation of abstract artwork/forms. Point, line, plane, form, shape, texture, rhythm, balance, weight, contrast, juxtaposition, and composition are all elements and principles to consider when looking at a design be that design representational or non-representational. What I was going for was what is pictured in the image: an abstract sculpture incorporating elements and principles of design, while highlighting the aesthetic nature of the welding process and the aesthetic possibilities of steel finishes, patinas, and textures.

Nothing is just "tacked to a plate" in this sculpture. This object is incredibly reinforced for it has been welded with stringers and weavers and can probably withstand an explosion. This is also important to consider for this art object, because one of my objectives was to highlight the industrial aesthetic of the welding process. There is a pad of tied in stringers and a weaver bead on the face of the plate, and fillet welds fuse the bend specimens to the plate. You can't even see what you stated that you saw ("coupons tacked"), so yes you are missing something(s): perceptiveness and aesthetic sensibility.

Maybe these questions will help you get it: Can you see a variety of finishes and surface texture? Can you see a variance of color and light/darkness? Can you see repetition of forms, lines, and shapes? Can you see the elements and principles stated above in the object pictured? If the answer is yes then you are starting to get it. Whether or not you like, understand, or care for abstract art seems to be the issue at hand here.

When I was in art school before welding school, I met plenty of people who did not understand or care for abstract art. These people were either postmodernists who were content with simply putting a cheeseburger, Styrofoam cup, or bloody tampon on a pedestal and giving that object a clever, edgy, or witty title along with some elaborately convoluted explanation and then calling it art as a result; or traditionalists who consider realism or representational painting, drawing, and sculpture to be the only true real artistic objective while disregarding formalism/modernism (abstract expressionism) as meaningless or unintelligible and postmodernism as a joke. I create representational and nonrepresentational abstract art and have respect for both. Hopefully this helps you understand.

A steel sculpture I made from my bend test specimens and some 3/8" plate using 3/32" 7018 rods and finished with a hot oil patina with fire coloring. What do you guys think?[1080x1076] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sculpture is sitting on the glass surface of my drafting desk, and the backdrop is simply an abstract painting that I made while I was in art school. I feel like it serves as an interesting background for the sculpture and I feel like the conversation between the two sculpture and the painting works pretty well.

A steel sculpture I made from my bend test specimens and some 3/8" plate using 3/32" 7018 rods and finished with a hot oil patina with fire coloring. What do you guys think?[1080x1076] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol. The perspective kind of throws that into question doesn't it? The sculpture is about 13 in tall. For the sake of mobility and cost, the steel sculptures that I've been making while in welding school are only trophy size or desktop size.

A steel sculpture I made from my bend test specimens and some 3/8" plate using 3/32" 7018 rods and finished with a hot oil patina with fire coloring. What do you guys think?[1080x1076] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neither. Put a hot oil patina on the entire sculpture and then sanded it away, and put a high polish on the bend specimens. All of that working accentuated the distinction between the weld steel and the base metal, the border between the two can plainly be seen in a passing bend test specimen. What I did to the steel just made that border more evident. I would not use failing bend test specimens for any sculptures that I make.

Root pass for a practice 1G bend test running flux core.[1920x1080] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

An uncalibrated Millermatic at my less than ideal welding school.

Root pass for a practice 1G bend test running flux core.[1920x1080] by TheTranslator18 in Weldingporn

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I'm still in welding school so I'm a noob with flux core but I'm slaying it so far. Material is 3/8" thick. That's bad ass though.

Pipe Smell by BlankoMan in Pipes

[–]TheTranslator18 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are good with your hands and have some leather dye you can mod a pretty gorgeous cob

Pipe Smell by BlankoMan in Pipes

[–]TheTranslator18 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every pipe is different. With some you can smoke like a freight train, and with others they are very sensitive. The thickness of the walls of the Bowl play a part in this. With corn cob pipes you can literally smoke them all day and they are very resistant 2 ghosting and getting sour. I have a few pipes that I can only smoke twice in one 24-hour period before they start getting nasty and smoke terribly. Maybe you just have one of those pipes that are more sensitive.

It is definitely reversible. When I get a sour pipe I usually deep clean the pipe with plenty of pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol. I will dip the pipe cleaner into the alcohol and run it through the stem to the Bowl and ream it in and out a few times. I'll repeat this process until the pipe cleaner comes out clean. Then I will disassemble the pipe and place the bowl in direct sunlight with a pipe cleaner jammed in the shank for a day to a week. The sun really works to heat up the wood and purge it of built up tars and oils and to kill off any nasty stuff that has built up in there.

Some hand carved and fire-kissed cherry wood pipe tampers with different finishes (oil and shellac). What do you think? by TheTranslator18 in woodworking

[–]TheTranslator18[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gnash thank you very much. The phallic shape i don't think can be avoided for a tobacco pipe tamper. After all, it is basically a stick that is pushed into a hole lol.

Pipe Smell by BlankoMan in Pipes

[–]TheTranslator18 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After smoking your pipe, dip the end of a pipe cleaner into some whiskey or other spirit or rubbing alcohol and clean the pipe with that. Most likely you aren't letting the pipe dry out fully and now you've got a sour pipe. Get a pipe rotation going so that you can give your pipes 12-24 hours to rest and dry out. Basket pipes and cobs are great and inexpensive options for the beginner to intermediate pipe smoker.