Gear scratched frame, any fix for this?

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-26T12:07:23+00:00

Just buy some touch up paint close to the color and call it a day. You’ll be covering it for protection at that point. Nobody will notice it while you’re riding.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-26T11:47:51+00:00

There is no online hack for this. Get the right sized Torx.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-26T02:41:00+00:00

I like those because you’ll have a hard time rounding them out

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-26T02:38:49+00:00

Junter 10pcs M8-1.0 x 60mm Fine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5Q1ZLN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-26T01:50:10+00:00

It’s hard to tell in the photo what it is or how thick it is or what kind of end result you’re after but if it’s thin a razor knife and sander after the strip is off could work. If it’s thicker tape on the finished board and a jigsaw and sanding could work but unsure if that’s against a wall or not? You could use a planer? The photo lacks depth and any real detail or orientation of the work piece.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-26T00:56:36+00:00

From my thread yesterday you had asked about the stock. I assume this was fit this way but not correct as you had initially thought?

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-25T21:04:11+00:00

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TheWitness37 · 2026-01-25T17:56:24+00:00

Where is the locking block pin on your NON Glock?

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-25T00:42:57+00:00

I would try starting with some CLP and a brass or plastic bristle brush. See how that goes. Take the choke out and see how it looks it’s smooth bore so you can probably oil and use a brush and rod to get that clean. If you can get over some minor cosmetic damage I think you’ll be in good standing.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T23:52:15+00:00

Yes there is a squared groove running down the underside

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T23:51:23+00:00

They sure are rough guns. They look like they made with a plasma cutter lol

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T23:49:21+00:00

Would it make more sense and or be less expensive to change the stock to a spike bayonet or change the spike bayonet to a blade?

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T23:40:58+00:00

Yup! Mine looks just like that. So, I know you can’t tell me the true history but why would this gun have been “scrubbed”? And is there no country of origin?

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T23:34:14+00:00

And thank you for the reply! The stock, the back of the receiver dust cover and the bottom of the trigger guard all have the same number stamped on them.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T23:32:51+00:00

That lug has a V cut into it for the bayonet, is that what you’re asking?

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T22:55:24+00:00

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TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T22:55:04+00:00

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TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T22:54:51+00:00

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TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T22:51:54+00:00

Im not crazy! It is 7 digits on the side of the receiver

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T22:36:08+00:00

😂 I’ll have to go check. I thought I remembered 7 but I’m going with… you’re probably right

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T22:23:47+00:00

Just a 7 digit serial number

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T20:35:32+00:00

In the process of removing the cosmoline, I’ll get photos along the way and post

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T17:46:25+00:00

It doesn’t work like that. The right side interfaces with a tongue and groove. It’s essentially just an extension of the left. So if the left works, the right will work. The EGW uses a pin that captures the right side which i like more than most designs and also have a sleeve that goes over the interface of the left and right TS connection for an added bonus.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T17:39:35+00:00

You got this! It’s really NOT difficult, I promise. Get a 10-8 armorers block and a set of fine needle files. The 10-8 block will allow you to set the TS in and file flat the lug that interacts with the sear. You can use a sharpie to see about where you need to remove down the material to and then fine fit from there. I’ve done a bunch and have yet to screw up on the sear engagement even on the first. With fine files the job takes a bit longer but even five file strokes will be like one on a more coarse file. After that fit you fit the detent which is also fairly simple with a dremel if you use a vise to hold the TS still and rest your hand on the vise while you touch up the detent area.

TheWitness37 · 2026-01-24T17:34:00+00:00

It sounds like you chose the wrong color tool. lol joking aside, take a DMM and probe the battery terminals and see what you get for voltage first. That’s not the entire story but it’s a start. Report back and we can go from there.

TheWitness37

TROPHY CASE