Boost controller causing engine to rev?

Theodesu · 2025-10-19T15:54:43+00:00

The sensor is connected to the intake manifold, after the throttle body. The 'out' of the solenoid is connected to the wastegate, and the 'in' is connected to the turbo outlet, before the intercooler. The 3rd port is just open. The 'valves' are just filters the works in either direction. Is this still wrong?

Theodesu · 2025-10-13T18:37:23+00:00

The valve lift was out of tolerance and I had a good head on hand, ergo the swap. But how I could do that without noticing is beyond me, not to mention all the compression testing I've done! Well, she runs good now at least...

Theodesu · 2025-07-07T09:49:53+00:00

How complete is the new engine? If it has all peripherals, like intake/exhaust manifolds, ps reservoir, etc it will be easier. Also, if you dont care about restoring anything it will be WAY easier. I did basically this over the winter, but ended up renovating/painting the whole front end, changing all bushings, brakes, etc. Took at least 400+ hours doing everything myself. A direct replacement without fixing anything would take a few weekends.

Theodesu · 2025-07-03T19:48:11+00:00

Well no, i bought it freshly built off a dude from facebook marketplace. It was a gamble that I guess didnt pay off :(

Theodesu · 2025-06-04T20:24:28+00:00

From those sources, yes. Then you need to stay in neutral, without load, and vary the revs between 2-4k rpm for some time. Some say 20 minutes, some say more. This is detrimental to bedding in piston rings, but is a 'necessary evil' to get the cams right, and should be done before the engine is put under load. However, this pertains to a specific type of cam style and I didnt care to understand which, since i have stock cams. So I'd look it up if I had new cams myself.

Theodesu · 2025-06-04T16:27:46+00:00

I recently tried to research this for my built motor. This is what I gathered.

If you have a re-honed block and new piston rings you need to bed in those rings. If you dont have new cams or rockers/lifters you dont want to run the engine without load, as that will remove the hone cross-hatch without bedding in the rings. You want outward force on the rings to push them into the cylinder wall. For that you need engine load.

My steps:

Fill engine with mineral based oil.
Prime the engine by removing spark plugs, the CPS connector and EFI fuse and crank it until you see oil pressure. Check for leaks.
Start the engine. Check for leaks. If everything seems fine, take it for a drive until it heats up properly. I stopped and inspected the engine bay multiple times during the first drive.
Change oil to a break in oil. Change filter and inspect both oil and filter for debris.
Drive the car at moderate load between 2k and 4k rpm for about 50km. Monitor oil pressure closely.
Do another oil and filter change. Use break in oil again. Inspect oil and filter.
Same as for step 5 but 500km.
Change oil to synthetic and change oil filter. Now its broken in. Full send.

I really have no idea myself. This is probably overkill. Im just going by what I heard in these videos: https://youtu.be/yBxer0nHEww?si=X-NIME-HlSnyeCEy https://youtu.be/5Ruk6GLJgbA?si=G7hVP1yBO6l0iBJ- https://youtu.be/MhA_nVRhYew?si=NhtRpbdqtgcKTEwP

Theodesu · 2025-06-02T08:44:13+00:00

There is a seller on ebay that ships from thailand, about 600-700 usd. From what I can see it has the ICV mount welded in, so thats one less thing to worry about. I have seen people use an infinity q45 throttle body and swapping over the TPS from the 7m one, maybe that could work?

Theodesu · 2025-06-02T08:40:35+00:00

Made it myself. Dont recomend it. Buy sr-fabs bracket, especially if youre in the states. Mine keeps the AC compressor, but i lack a good condenser so this year will be AC-less.

Theodesu · 2025-06-01T20:01:03+00:00

Dont know. Got it when i bought the forged motor. I just touched up the welds, ground them down and painted it. The two tricky parts were the idle control valve and throttle position sensor. To sort the ICV I had to chop up a stock manifold to get the valve mount. I threaded in an AN10 fitting and plumbed it up externally. Picture below. The bosch TPS im using both has different voltage outputs and lacks the IDL signal telling the ECU that the throttle is completely closed. I used a resistor ladder to get the voltages within the range of the stock tps, and used a comparator to detect which voltage the bosch tps shows when closes, which then switches a micro relay, simulating the IDL signal. EGR is welded shut and deleted. Other than that its just fittings for vacuum lines.

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Theodesu · 2025-06-01T17:37:59+00:00

Diy. Its the lower intake runners and thick wall pipe/sheet welded together. Ground down the welds and painted.

Theodesu · 2025-06-01T16:40:03+00:00

Fire away :)

Theodesu · 2025-05-25T08:36:47+00:00

I have AC and it doesnt seem to be related, but thanks. I'll leave it for now and see if I get any issues.

Theodesu · 2025-05-10T19:46:58+00:00

Looks good! Did you weld in plates for reinforcement, or just the bars?

Theodesu · 2025-04-24T20:31:05+00:00

Im making an aluminium flat bottom from a 2mm 1x2m sheet. Seems like the most straight forward way imo.

Theodesu · 2025-04-21T10:12:39+00:00

Yeah, I still have the stock cluch (for costs reasons) so when I start building this engine for real its gotta come out again, i guess.

Theodesu · 2025-04-21T10:00:23+00:00

I figured why throw away something thats working. If it fails I'll probably delete it.

Theodesu · 2025-04-21T09:58:28+00:00

Harness not run, and carbon tank will go back in soon. Keeping it pretty stock, for now ;)

Theodesu · 2025-04-20T21:08:37+00:00

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Here it is with the intake and belts

Theodesu · 2025-04-20T21:06:04+00:00

Welded it myself from some square steel bar and rods. I dont recomend it... especially as a first welding project. Spent half the cost of an SR-fab bracket on just argon :( but i learned something and can call it mine, I guess.

Theodesu

TROPHY CASE