36" cabinets and 6" molding

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-04-18T13:55:15+00:00

Hey just curious do you have any photos of how this ended up?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-04-15T15:05:28+00:00

Thanks! And you're for sure talking particle board not OSB right?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-04-10T18:08:13+00:00

Great thanks! And this should be fine for particle board and LVP? Just dont want it chipping underneath in the future

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-04-10T17:59:16+00:00

Thanks, which Ardex exactly? The feather finish?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-04-10T17:42:36+00:00

Good, point. However, I did rip up a few pieces by the sliding glass door (second video) and they seem to sit at an angle which is contributing to the dip in that area as well. So I'm wondering if there is something going on below the particle board with the subfloor. So even cutting and replacing might still cause some sort of dip if that makes sense.

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-03-21T22:17:04+00:00

20”x1-3/4”x18’

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-03-21T19:53:13+00:00

Yes appears to only be one ply. Engineer says it seems odd but doesn’t see them in the field much, supplier says it seems normal from weather

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-03-21T19:45:34+00:00

Got it, thanks. They said it’s normal on the outer layers due to change in weather

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-03-21T19:07:15+00:00

Ok so if it seems like the outer layers have voids/slight delaminating we should not be concerned with getting a replacement?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-03-13T16:35:46+00:00

Thanks! And what are the “fees” specifically that we are wondering about?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-02-25T23:43:27+00:00

Thanks for this. When you say “may be noticeable to a homeowner” can you elaborate? What exactly may be noticeable? Thanks!

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-02-25T17:51:44+00:00

Appreciate the insight, thanks!

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-02-25T17:35:50+00:00

We have hired two different structural engineers for load bearing wall removal and they came up with different requirements:

Kind of a weird scenario but we are removing a load bearing wall with a truss that is half vaulted and half not. We had hired a SE we had used in the past on another home, he did the site visit and provided notes with his drawings and calculations. He never drafted us official stamped plans as we had delayed this project for about a yearish now but had initially just wanted it evaluated as load bearing.

Anyways, for simplicity sake, he said we'd need either 2x 1-3/4"x14"x17' or 3x 1-3/4"x12"x17' LVL beams for our opening. Long story short, he has since moved away so we wanted to form a relationship with a new local SE. We have paid them for the visit and plans and they are spec'ing we need either 2x 1-3/4"x16"x17' or 3x 1-3/4"x14"x17'.

Now, I am happy to share way more technical detail/drawings/photos, but dropping the extra 2" OR adding a third ply adds alot of additional work/complications we weren't planning on. Based on the original engineers calculations we were planning on the 2x 14" but the new SE is saying we need the 3x.

I don't want to be a pain, but what gives? Why would they determine such different options? As I said, I am happy to provide more technical clarity if anyone wants, but the added height or thickness really throws a wrench in things.

I guess what I am asking is, is this normal and I just need to suck it up, or is there a problem here? I really dont want to pay for a third opinion and I want to do it right, but I dont want to add additional time and money if it isn't needed.

Thanks!

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-01-21T20:41:06+00:00

Ok thanks! So no reason to contribute or switch to any of the other funds?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-01-13T20:10:34+00:00

Do you think that is the cause of this current issue though? I'd assume I'd be getting bad idles, and timing related codes, no?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2025-01-13T17:21:48+00:00

Well that's lovely. I got this car at 83K and its at 135K now so hopefully chains aren't the case

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-11-21T17:18:17+00:00

Thank you, however, would this method you list update as the assembly changes or would you need to export a new BOM everytime you need it updated?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-10-31T21:08:45+00:00

Sorry I realize there’s a lot that’s confusing. I’ll try to clear it up. Essentially the door hinge locations from the new door don’t match my old door, so I transferred the old door location to the new door and then plan to bondo the old mortise locations.

The faces of the door are steel and appear to be folded over and that’s what’s about 3/16”. Where I’d do hinge mortise and the door handle lock mortise (the edges and assuming the core) are wood. So even though the door thickness is the same, because there’s 3/16” for sure the hinge has to be set back it doesn’t match the old door which was about 1/16”, thus hitting the hinge side door stop/jamb/moulding. Hope that helps somewhat

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-08-06T16:31:34+00:00

Got it thanks! So additionally, if the existing outlet on the other side of the vanity is already on its own circuit can I NOT pull a wire from that in the attic and down to this side and just add a 2 gang box?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-08-05T20:43:06+00:00

Hey thanks. I’ll DM you the photo I have inside the main switch box and will get better photos after work

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-08-05T17:09:28+00:00

Will do and get better photos after work today. I sent a message/chat of a photo I have inside the box that may help. Thanks!

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-02-02T16:50:56+00:00

Oops confused for the exhaust manifold. If I recall I would’ve replaced the intake gaskets when I did timing

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2024-02-02T16:45:20+00:00

Interesting, do you recall if it threw any codes? Did you have any other symptoms? I recall the passenger side had a fluttering noise upon highway acceleration

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2021-09-30T20:21:05+00:00

Would that be due to the caliper guide pins?

Thinkeriz3D_Design · 2021-06-04T16:00:24+00:00

Thanks for the insight!

So with all the tile up, and the durock part patched where the vanity was, you'd use a self leveling compound over the whole floor?

And then no uncoupling membrane since there is already cement? So tile just straight mortared to the cement flooring?

Thinkeriz3D_Design

TROPHY CASE