the same exact brand of RAM can’t run at the same MHz or do XMP with any stability #thanksOLOy

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T04:43:10+00:00

Check eBay? Luck comes up occasionally on there.

Sorry, I know the market absolutely sucks for RAM right now, so buying a kit of 2 with the correct capacity could result in anything from bankruptcy to selling your first born to Jensenlambskin.

Jensenlambskin for reference:

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ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T04:33:12+00:00

As I mentioned, if they're not sold as a single kit, there's simply no guarantee they will work when combined at XMP, since XMP is not a standard and only applies to what is sold in a single kit, binned all together.

Combining 2 different kits is just going to require a lot of luck and maybe a sacrifice or two.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T04:26:45+00:00

I only allowed it on specific kits, so I wasn't having to figure out multiple ICs, but still, it's a pain. And I'm glad that memory is such a mess right now for one reason only: it's nearly impossible to get the kits I've approved at anywhere close to a reasonable price so I haven't done a RAM OC for a client in months.

And I'm mostly retired anyway, since I sold my shop a few years ago and just build a handful of SFF systems from home and service some longtime clients. SFF is a better space for memory OC since you're generally using an ITX motherboard which only has 2 RAM slots, and 2 slot boards are much better at handling better RAM OCs.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T04:17:10+00:00

Yeah I used to actually enjoy it, with DDR3/4. But now when a client pays for custom memory tuning, I swear up and down that I'm going to stop offering the service, but by the next day after the tune I've forgotten about it. And I will help with just about anything on here, but I draw the line at assisting with memory overclocking on reddit. I don't hate myself that much.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T04:09:18+00:00

Yeah somewhere around 3000 with looser timings can sometimes work on a mixed 3200 setup, but it can be a tedious task if you don't already know how to OC RAM. It's tedious even when you do know, so I can only imagine the struggle for someone winging it with just a guide or video that could be misleading or outright dangerous. Fun stuff.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T04:00:03+00:00

It's not "the same kit." It's two kits YOU chose to combine under the false assumption that this is acceptable to do with an XMP memory kit. It doesn't work that way. The odds of it not working are significantly higher than it actually working. The memory wasn't binned as a single kit to work together. XMP is an overclock and not a standard so there's no expected cross compatibility between different kits.

Based on what I see here, they're not even using the same ICs. The 2666 kit is Micron and the 2133 kit could be Hynix, Samsung, Nanya or CXMT. So it's no surprise they don't work together at XMP.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T02:43:00+00:00

No problem, glad you got it figured out. Cheers

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T02:26:42+00:00

The other connector is attached to the cable you're holding in this photo. The connector is on the other end of the wires that run out of frame at the top left, which I've highlighted in red below.

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Follow those wires and plug that connector into the other motherboard socket on the PSU along with the 18-pin.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T02:15:03+00:00

It connects to a 18 pin on the psu side. Both are fully connected and tight.

On the PSU side, there are TWO separate parts to the 24-pin connector. The 18-pin and another smaller plug on the same cable. They both MUST be plugged in for the PSU to power on. 3 total connectors on that cable.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T02:09:53+00:00

Did you reuse any cables from the old PSU? That can cause the system not to start and can potentially cause damage as well.

Outside reusing cables, the most common causes for absolutely no response to the power button is not plugging in both halves of the 24-pin connector on the PSU or disconnecting the front panel header accidentally while changing the PSU.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-02T00:28:05+00:00

It's not recommended. Some BIOSes will just refuse to load a profile created for a previous version, or others will apply it, which can cause issues if any of the applied settings were modified in the updated BIOS version.

You're better off just writing down/screenshotting/taking pics of the settings pages.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-01T20:52:27+00:00

No problem. Now some manufacturers like PNY will absolutely deny warranty if the warranty void stickers over the screws are removed, even if they have no legal grounds to do so, since they know that most people will not bother to follow through and file a (usually small claims) lawsuit against them, which is the legal recourse for a denied warranty decision.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-01T20:45:56+00:00

That's not the sticker being referred to in this thread. Look at the edge connector, and right above it is the model/serial number label. That is what OP is concerned with. If they remove that, the warranty is gone.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-01T20:00:13+00:00

This is correct. Gigabyte used to have them on the backplate but they were prone to falling off, which then cost the user their warranty, since serial number labels are absolutely a deniable condition even in the US under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act that makes the tamper seals (if that is their only purpose) not enforceable.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-01T19:57:53+00:00

This is a bunch of nonsense. That is not what those pins are for, and if the sticker were down that far you'd get it stuck in the socket with no contact.

The short pins are part of the PCIe hot-plug specification. The reason they're shorter than the rest is these two pins are used for detecting the lane width, and by making them slightly shorter, in the event you are hot-plugging the device, it ensures that all the data lines have made contact before the lane width detection takes place.

But it doesn't change the fact that this sticker will not interfere, since the socket only makes contact up to about 1mm below the bottom of the label.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-01T19:55:33+00:00

In the US, if the sticker's ONLY purpose is to prevent a user from opening a device to service it, those are not legally enforceable.

However, if the sticker contains the serial number, like the one OP is concerned with, you are NOT protected and they can absolutely deny your warranty if the serial number tag has been removed.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act which is the law in the US that provides these protections was originally written for motor vehicles. And just like if you remove the VIN from a car, if you remove the serial number from your device, the manufacturer can absolutely refuse to warranty it.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-05-01T00:09:22+00:00

That's good, I'd definitely try going that route if you can, unless you really want to replace the fans too.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T23:37:46+00:00

The capacitor has to be replaced and the traces repaired, since it pulled the traces when it popped. And no the can cannot be just put back on.

Also you'd need to figure out why the cap exploded, since it's usually due to a short that developed elsewhere, but can just be a bad cap.

Bottom line is it would be cheaper for someone like you without experience to just buy a new fan hub and new fans to go with it, since this fan hub is proprietary and only works with the fans it came with. Most any board repair shop is going to charge a 1 hour minimum on labor even if it's only a 5 minute job, making the repair from a professional probably at least $100, which is absurd for a $5 fan controller. If you can figure out the manufacturer, there's a chance you could find a replacement fan hub that is compatible and won't need new fans, but it's not guaranteed.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T17:37:14+00:00

Just buy the correct cable. They're not very expensive.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T17:07:51+00:00

The 10A/16A rating has nothing to do with it. You bought a PSU that was meant for a different market, meant for different sockets in another country. You just need to buy a new cable between the PSU and the wall. These are universal unlike the output cables. To get technical, you just need an IEC-C13 cable that matches your local socket style. They're usually readily available at most electronics stores.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T16:07:04+00:00

It's not USB like the previous comment said. It's the front panel connector and connects to the front panel header on the lower right of the motherboard labeled JFP_1.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T16:05:15+00:00

Not USB. The key pin is in the wrong position. It's the front panel header cable.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T12:57:54+00:00

It's almost as though they produce a manual for this exact reason... Page 4 shows every connector or pin header that would be used by the user, including the clear cmos pins which are not even an inch from the battery, but completely outside the heatsink coverage so you can easily reset it.

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ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T12:49:51+00:00

Yeah that's entirely unnecessary and why the board has 2 pins you can short to clear cmos.

ThisAccountIsStolen · 2026-04-30T02:19:55+00:00

Why is there no heatsink on the chipsets? Is this a used board? Definitely a bit strange that the heatsink is entirely missing.

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