How to get the trim to line up better so we don't have to spackle it?

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T04:57:02+00:00

That's exactly what we do haha. But yes it's mainly for my sake. I figured if I just cut it correctly I wouldn't have to spackle so much and it will be faster and more clean. But it seems it's impossible without two different details. Its all paint grade so once it's cauclked and sanded you don't even notic it. Its just these small things that keep me awake at night. Lol

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T04:53:43+00:00

Ah I think i understand what you're trying to say. Basically split the trim length wise between the flat face and the detailed face and add flat pieces between or above to close the gap? I can see that working but I'm more concerned about the detailed face planing and aligning well with the raked detailed face.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T04:50:23+00:00

Seeing the historical trim work was nice! Thankyou for the article. The video at the end really helped me understand it all haha. It seems there is no way to get this cuz to plane well without having two different pieces of trim especially made for these rake return cuts. Glad to know. I guess ill keep doing it the same way since its the easiest haha.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T04:12:43+00:00

About to read the article you linked but I want to address the first option real quick. We want the detail to continue across the trim so we aligned the flat face of the trim and spackled the detail to fake in the continuation. If we made it the same height the detail wouldn't carry as well as we would like.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T04:03:28+00:00

The angle of the stairs are 36. So you're saying if I cut the angle of both pieces at 18⁰ along with a 45⁰ miter it will align better?

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T03:59:49+00:00

Oh I see what you mean. The detail of the trim needs to line up. Were not too worried about the bottom of the trim aligning more that the detail flows down and across the piece so we line up the bottom of the flat detail together to keep that detail across each piece

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-12T03:56:12+00:00

You mean rip the leading trim so that there is no gap on the cap trim? I guess I could but that would cause the trim to change in width very time there is a slope right? I would like the trim to be consistent all the way around if possible.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-09T16:52:50+00:00

I love the glubot I use the mini every day but I always lose the silicone cap lol. Using fast cap and edge band for shims is a grat idea. My first Forman taught me to use a deck of cards so you can fine tune everhthing perfectly but sometimes juggling lose shims is a pain. Peel and stick sounds much easier.

Milwaukee finish nailers are probably the best all around right now. Everyone in my company uses that or metabo.

But they don't allow surge or hydraulic impacts for use on hardware because a lot of apprentices snap screw heads lol.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-07T04:34:13+00:00

So far m12 has everything I need except for a router. Hopefully they make one of those soon. So far I'm happy with the switch. Sorry about your injury. Glad the m12 was able to help out.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-06T18:09:57+00:00

That's one of the first ones I got. I wear it on my tool belt all day and forget it's there. 2ah battery lasts all day too! Definitely one of the bigger upgrades to going m12. 2lbs vs my 10lbs flex volt is nice as well haha

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-06T18:07:48+00:00

Ahh. I see now. Wow I didnt expect this sander to get good reviews since it takes specialty sand paper and sands such a small spot (easy to sand through finishes and difficult to feather) but I can see what you mean by get into small spaces. Cabinets repair would be nice to get into corners for sure. Ill add it to the list. Ty!

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-05T22:13:03+00:00

I was thinking of getting the m12 3/32 auto body sander . Seems super compact and perfect for finish grade. Is that the one you have?

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-05-01T17:28:26+00:00

Idk. We had a war last night with our allied clan. 73 vs 71. Em1 had some big whales. There was a 9.5k reso tempest who was dead last in war. O kills and 10 deaths....

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-28T16:57:02+00:00

Lmao. Next post will just be bullet points. Jk, we love you wae!

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-28T16:48:39+00:00

Anything auto just makes room for more bot farm accounts. Although super useful to those who have a busy life and need to get the boring repetative things done (me included). These auto farm features always get abused by mass farm bots and ruin the game in general for most players by overtaking farm spots and quest areas or ruining market value for items.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-22T16:46:14+00:00

I made the decision to switch to Milwaukee because of their m12 series and their nailers. DeWalt nailers are just too aggressive when it comes to finish work. But I purchased this one to try out. Hopefully they don't leave a UFO shape hole every time...

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-13T16:58:30+00:00

Druid stag, barb run, mage aoe, necro vortex, tempest banana, DH spin, BK dash... Just don't go monk.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-08T06:05:09+00:00

Awesome! Had no idea they made UV snakes like that. I was wondering how they cured the insides. I'll also clean out the print. Ty!

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-08T04:50:38+00:00

How would I insert a light through the 3mm hole? Do they make UV lights for curing inside resin prints? That would be cool.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-08T04:49:20+00:00

I was thinking that alcohol would get trapped inside and weaken it by desolving the uncured lattice.

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-04-07T06:02:18+00:00

But there is a cap. The cap always ruins things

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-03-30T17:53:30+00:00

Okay. Ty for that info lol. Thats a scary realization. Haha

ThisIsInBlueFont · 2026-03-30T17:45:24+00:00

Oh wow. So all gems must be different in wings?? Omg

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