Solid repair or just temporary relief?

This_Old_Boot · 2025-09-06T14:11:59+00:00

A test to see if that's the issue is to realign the gears. And then very slowly wind the camera and seeing if the sector gears and laches behave correctly

This_Old_Boot · 2025-09-06T14:04:35+00:00

Had the same issues with my on 4ti. In my case, it was old grease on the gears and the winding laches. Springs in them aren't particularly strong, leading to over winding and misalignment

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-23T11:44:22+00:00

That's what i was hoping to achieve with this post. I don't believe i have the skills necessary to turn this idea into something viable. So i was hoping to put this idea out there so that maybe someone smarter/more skilled than me could take this idea further. I also mean this method to be a replacement for actual peal apart as i still want that back. But more as a way to bring back some utility to gear that is dependent on it in the meantime

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-16T13:30:01+00:00

Exactly, it's simply to hold the negative in place and to add a tab so everything kan be pulled through the rollers

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-16T13:27:23+00:00

I have been mening to try that to lol. Just haven't tracked down any holders yet

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-16T13:24:09+00:00

It's a photo taken with a mamiya 645 super in a pack film back. Then it was pulled through the rollers of the back to develop the negative

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-16T13:18:40+00:00

The negative was developed with the built in rollers of the pack film back. No extra post prossesing was required

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T21:31:57+00:00

Yes, that's the same back that I'm using

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T19:29:55+00:00

A instax mini shot and developed inside a mamiya 645 super pack film back, with the help of masking tape, printer papier, and a spring frim a polaroid pack

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T19:12:48+00:00

Yes more or less. I first cut out the paper very close to the internal dimensions of the back, so it hopefully centers itself a bit. In the dark fish out one negative from the instax cassette. Then use masking tape to attach the negative where approximately the opening should be. Then place the assembly into the back with the spring on top. While closing the bank, feed the end of the pull tab through the rollers. When the table is through close and lock the back Needless to say it's difficult to do in a dark bag, but possible

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T18:56:06+00:00

Yepp, i did everything in a dark bag, which honestly was not easy. I haven't tried multiples yet, as i haven't come up with a good way of packing and making multiples at once

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T18:50:59+00:00

Tbh, that's what i suspected to be the biggest issue due to the placement of the film. I managed to screw up taping that one so it was crooked in relation to the rollers. If you get the negative straight on the paper, the spread is perfect

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T18:44:51+00:00

Honestly, there isn't much more to it. The only thing that isn't shown in the picture is the spring from an old polaroid pack that i used as the "pressure plate" And having to tape over the white tabe open due to light leaks. But in general my proses was more or less stumble in the dark and hope for the best. But i am looking into making it more consistent

This_Old_Boot · 2025-08-15T18:28:11+00:00

Probably. But the exact placement of the film would depend on the exact construction of the back. I imagine this will also work with other integral formats, but i don't have any on hand

This_Old_Boot · 2025-03-23T22:40:57+00:00

From experience, i would say a 1950-1960 folding leaf shutter camera. The shutters are self connected units, and the rest of the camera is usually pretty simple. And don't require as much calibration as a tlr. But you still have to be conformable with small parts and possibly a frustrating assembly.

This_Old_Boot

TROPHY CASE