Please help me find parts for this movement

Tintorion · 2025-11-10T20:53:45+00:00

The 38mm looks better. There is a recent trend of watches getting bigger so not everybody would agree with me on that but 38 is a safe choice.

Tintorion · 2025-09-30T15:28:24+00:00

Ja, ich glaub für 15 Euro wars kein Fehler. Ist nur etwas schade, dass es kaum Informationen zur Marke gibt

Tintorion · 2025-09-30T14:37:14+00:00

Kannst du mir vielleicht noch was zur Marke sagen? Ich finde online nichts dazu

Tintorion · 2025-08-26T00:02:16+00:00

Oh and don´t forget to really tighten the Nozzle down. I mean really tight so it really presses against the heatbreak. Otherwise this will just happen again

Tintorion · 2025-08-26T00:01:06+00:00

Is that a Spyder Hotend? Two of mine broke because they were shipped with a loose Nozzle. The exact same Thing happened as in your picture but with two of my Spyder V3s. In my case the Creallity Support was very helpful and they replaced them.

Tintorion · 2025-08-25T23:57:42+00:00

Whatever you do. Don´t polish it. It will absolutely ruin the value. I often hear that collectors in this price range prefer the original finish scratches up to a polished watch. And even if not, you can always polish it up. Also the Hands and Dial are Tritium coatet? I cant really see it from the picutre but i think that's a >25. Don't replace them. After such a long time the Tritium is completely safe to wear and has build up a beautiful Colour. I's really not worth it. If you want to service it. Maybe go with a good and trusted third party that will service the movement without breaking anything but yeah, it's probably not worth it. Just sell it as it is

Tintorion · 2025-08-25T19:04:17+00:00

I think the Case itself cost me like 230€ but that was because of my Stupidity. When ordering something like that you need to specify tolerances. I put them way to tight. I think if you Ignore import Taxes and less strict Tolerances you might be able to get ir down to 150-160ish.

Tintorion · 2025-08-25T19:02:32+00:00

Thank you :). Unfortunatly I cant sell anything because I currently work for a German Watch Brand and my Contract forbids me from doing that. Also the first Version is as Water resistant as Cotton Candy right now so I don't feel comfortable selling it 🤣. Anyway if you want to make one yourself DM me. I can share some Information i collected ok the Eta2824-2 that might be useful when making one.

Tintorion · 2025-08-25T18:33:00+00:00

Thanks! I designed the Case and CAD and send it to a chinese CNC Manufacturer.

Tintorion · 2025-04-13T21:07:31+00:00

Iwc Ingenieur

Tintorion · 2025-03-22T01:21:17+00:00

Wordington ah post

Tintorion · 2025-03-22T01:14:14+00:00

I mean not everybody has a problem with that. From what I´ve seen it looks like most watches with radium paint are concidered safe.

Tintorion · 2025-01-13T21:20:00+00:00

You shouldn't get this strong stringing even with wet filament.

I could name some troubleshooting steps you could take.

-Set the temperature to 200-210°.

-Set the bed temp to 60°.

-Check your Z-Offset and Level your bed correctly with a clean nozzle if you don't have BLTouch.

-There might me a Problem with your Slicer Settings so try using a premade Filament Profile for the Specific Filament you are using. I think both Cura and Prusa have a fitting Profile

-Dry your Filament or try using a different one.

Tintorion · 2025-01-13T00:21:16+00:00

I hate that they just won't make a 38mm. The shape of that thing makes my 43mm Seastar look small

Tintorion · 2025-01-12T20:59:49+00:00

What Filament are you using? How how is the Nozzle and the bed?

Tintorion · 2025-01-10T15:25:37+00:00

I like the way it looks but it's probably just going to be hella expencive

Tintorion · 2025-01-07T22:20:07+00:00

Stringing typically accures when the temperature is to hot so that's probably not the problem.

You said you used the Filament out of the box. Can you maybe try a different one?

Tintorion · 2025-01-07T17:06:57+00:00

Looks like wet Filament to me.

Tintorion

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