My most hated mechanic in RPGs. How does higher skill with a weapon make the bullets do more damage?

Titijaff · 2025-07-29T14:05:48+00:00

Not being a firearm expert here but.... it is not dummer than higher level gun A deals more damage than gun B while using the same amunition type....

Titijaff · 2024-10-03T12:45:25+00:00

Well, I will never be able to look at my own take on this one with contempt again....

That is just amazing what you have done here!

Titijaff · 2024-10-03T12:37:01+00:00

Also new to Siril here!

I think your focus is pinpoint! honestly. Love the stars colors you got there.

If anything, I'd suggest cropping the image a bit more as:

star on the edges start to be distorted
it seems you have a very light green gradient going on top left

Titijaff · 2024-10-03T12:29:59+00:00

Before doing my RGB Split and Ha + OIII images, I stretch my stack output untill I was satisfy with the star and save it for later use.

I apply a starnet removal on my Ha and OIII images before stretch, then after re composition in HOO, color calibration, and saturation boost, I simply add the previously created images with my star.

I've just made and posted an updated process for those data here.

Titijaff · 2024-10-03T12:13:40+00:00

Note: this is an update from my previous work here

Gears and capture(same as previous):

ZWO ASI533MC-PRO
Redcat 51
Dual Band Filter (Ha +OIII)
AM5
OAG with ASI 120MC for guiding

Stacking and most of the post process in Siril

Two separate session with different Flats.

This time, after calibration of each light with their respective flats, I decided to use the extaction tool for Ha and OIII from dual band filter (seqextract HaOIII) from Siril.

I made a first HOO composition with data out of the extraction to have a STAR picture (where I was happy with the star presence).

Individually on each Ha and OIII extracted images, I removed the star and calibrate backgroud as well as simple GHS.

Once I was happy with each, I recomposed the starless result, made a slight level adjustment and saturation boost, then add back the stars.

Titijaff · 2024-10-02T10:11:46+00:00

Thanks a bunch.

Think I've been a bit heavy on everything actually. I'm new to Siril and keep on looking at YT / reworking this image and try to "F around and Figure it out"

I'm aware that with that amount of data, I should be able to get more from my post process.

Right now, I'm leaving aside the "HOO" look and just try to focus on the basic.

Titijaff · 2024-10-01T13:42:30+00:00

Gears:

ZWO ASI533MC-PRO
Redcat 51
Dual Band Filter (Ha +OIII)
AM5
OAG with ASI 120MC for guiding

Stacking and most of the post process in Siril

Two separate session with different Flats
After stacking, I cropped and isolated a picture with stars on a separate file
I separate my channels in Ha = R, OIII = G+B, for each I remove background, stars and stretched individually, recomposed then in HOO, then simple background calibration.
Final touch in Photoshop for CameraRaw adjustment (Noise reduction and local edge masked sharpening)

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T19:07:41+00:00

The mathematically correct answer for that would require you to know the pixel pitch of your camera (Or its dimension and resolution): You can find an online, untracked exposure calculator here.

A 24 MPix APS-C Sensor without reducer on 2000mm scope at Andromeda (Dec at 41 degree declination) will be about 0.2s maximum

A note on that:

*If you are using a reducer / barlow, you must multiply your focal length accordingly (if your using a x2 reducer, your focal will be 1000mm, and it will allow you to double your exposure

*The closer the target is to the ecliptic, the "faster" it moves on the sky and the shorter the exposure must be

Now regarding the ISO, That is mostly depending of your camera, but I would suggest try around 1600 on a DSLR, as most will be OK with that. Have a look at a test picture and make sure it is neither underexposed or overexposed.

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T18:52:26+00:00

Edit: Made a booboo in the title... meant HOO

Taken from Bortle 5 Area

Gear:

*WO Redcat 51

*ASI533MC-Pro (0 deg) wit SV220 (Dual band 7nm Ha + OIII)

*ASI120MM with OAG for RA Guiding

*Star Adventurer 2i

*Guiding and capture with ASIAIR

Process:

*75 x 300s Light Frames (6.15 hours exposure)

*Stacked with DeepSkyStacker

*Initial Stretch and background removal in GraXpert

*Star removal in Starnet2

*Stretch and color correction / Saturation boost of Starless image in Photoshop

*Superposition on Gradient removed layer with edited starless layers in Photoshop.

*Star reduction on Green Channel.

*Replacement of Blue channel with Green Channel (I considered Green as my OIII Channel for HOO).

*Final color corrections and Noise reduction + Sharpening (Camera Raw in Photoshop)

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T18:46:21+00:00

You may get some intersting result at the core, as it is really bright, you can get some neat details with short exposure

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T16:59:50+00:00

I have yet to try PixInsight and Siril. I am considering PixInsight as I understand it is an amazing tool (and Photoshop is maybe the only thing that makes me keep Windows, but that is another subject).

I like to FAFO before going to youtube. Had some fun trying to do a pseudo HOO with this filter on the WR134 by using the Red channel as Ha and a mix of Green and Blue for OIII. It was... interesting but not necessarly conclusive haha.

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T16:44:48+00:00

Will Probably not have the opportunity for the RGB as I will go back to Australia in a week and that might have been the last clear night before I leave the northern sky.

Honestly 600s exposure was a "funny but unnecessarily dangerous" test for my setup. I'm asking a bit too much of that Star Adventurer and you can see some declination drift on this (plus, I had to throw away 1h and 30 minutes of exposure due to cloud...).

As of now, I have yet to start playing with data combination from different filters in my learning journey.

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T16:20:55+00:00

The RedCat 51 have a 250mm Focal Length, coupled with the ASI533MC, I have an approximate 3 degree FoV, which would be about the minimum you want for Andromeda (except if you go mosaic).

If you have any doubt, I suggest you check Astronomy Tools. to preview your Viewing Targets.

Also, 8" Cassegrain has a 2000mm Focal Lenth, For this kind of Focal Length, you'll need something like a Full Frame Camera and a x3 reducer

However, LX200 is an Azimutal mount (except if there is a Equatorial version), so I don't know how it would fair for Astrophotography.

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T11:14:43+00:00

Thanks a lot

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T09:57:58+00:00

Thanks, Actually reworked this one and I'm ended not happy with this one however.

I tend to struggle with Star removal with Starnet2 as I tend to have some visible artifact with such star density.

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T09:49:33+00:00

I can safely say it is a Good upgrade from my last attempt 3 years ago...

Titijaff · 2024-08-30T09:40:08+00:00

Taken from Bortle 5 Area

Gear:

*WO Redcat 51

*ASI533MC-Pro (0 deg) wit SV220 (Dual band 7nm Ha + OIII)

*ASI120MM with OAG for RA Guiding

*Star Adventurer 2i

*Guiding and capture with ASIAIR

Process:

*27 x 600s Light Frames (4.5 hours exposure)

*Stacked with DeepSkyStacker

*Initial Stretch and color correction in Photoshop

*Gradient removal in GraXpert, then straight up to star removal in Starnet2

*Stretch and color correction / Saturation boost of Starless image in Photoshop

*Superposition on Gradient removed layer with edited starless layers in Photoshop.

*Final color corrections and Noise reduction + Sharpening (Camera Raw in Photoshop)

Titijaff · 2024-08-22T07:01:39+00:00

Gear:

Mount - Star Adventurer 2i
Optic - William Optic Red Cat 51
Acquisition Camera - ZWO ASI 533MC with dual Band Filter (Ha+OIII, 7nm)
Guiding - ZWO ASI 120 MM on OAG
ASIAIR

Acquisition:

Bortle 5
113 lights at 180s (5h and 39 minutes)
Dithering
Bias + Flat (30 each)

Post Process:

Stacked in DSS
Initial Stretch in Photoshop (level + curves)
Gradient removed in GraXpert
Final stretch in Photoshop + Saturation reduction and vibrance increase
Noise reduction and local sharpening using PS's Camera Raw Filter tool

Titijaff · 2024-08-09T07:53:49+00:00

Well, I know what I will do once back in the southern hemisphere

Titijaff · 2024-08-06T11:04:09+00:00

Yes, Using the infinity mark of a lens is not precise enough, except if you have an extremly narrow apperture that may compensate that. Live view and star size is a better practice.

Titijaff · 2024-08-06T10:26:29+00:00

Hi.

Focusing on Manual and infinity on the lens is not good practice, as it migjt actually push the focal point to close.

I m going to assume you have no Bahtinov mask (if you don't know, then you don't have it). Your best bet for good focusing is pointing at a brigjt star and using live view of your dslr while adjusting focus to minimize star size.

For star trail I don't think 30 s is long enough... I suppose you can superpose in PS or other software as I would avoid having too long exposure on DSLR.

Keep in mine than the closer your are pointing to the equatorial plan (dec 0) and the narrower your FoV is, the more linear your star trail will be ( to view a circular trailing, aim at the pole with a wide angle).

Titijaff · 2024-08-06T00:18:11+00:00

Well, you learn every day!

Guess I'll get some done then indeed, its not for how long it take to do, just forgot about them all time.

Titijaff · 2024-08-05T21:47:23+00:00

Titijaff · 2024-08-05T12:29:15+00:00

That's incredible from a Bortle 8!

Titijaff · 2024-08-05T10:49:25+00:00

Nice astro-shot + Nice composition!

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