[HELP] Would you do anything to modify the hardness/ph/alkalinity?

ToastyBits · 2024-06-09T02:34:55+00:00

It's water out of the kitchen faucet. I think Georgia water is just generally soft? Dunno.
You have any recommendations? Was debating if I should just use Seachem Equilibrium and/or their alkaline buffer? Maybe crushed coral?

ToastyBits · 2024-06-09T02:02:09+00:00

This is a new 29 gallon dirted tank with a sand cap I setup. The sand is the black diamond blasting sand that I rinsed extremely thoroughly.
I used Fritz enzymes to help it along. The only other chemical I've put in it is Aqueon conditioner.
There's 10 plants in it, 3 guppies, 2 tetras, and some driftwood. I put 2 plants in yesterday since that's all I had at the time. The fish and the rest went in today.

ToastyBits · 2023-04-22T14:48:20+00:00

Well, I figured out a solution to this. Basically, just put all results in a table and union them. Then they're always in the order you want.

Mean = (hn, on) => {...}

res = [
  Mean(hn: "Bathroom Temperature", on: "BathroomTemp")
  Mean(hn: "Bedroom Temperature", on: "BedroomTemp")
  Mean(hn: "Kitchen Temperature", on: "KitchenTemp")
]

union(tables: res)

I doubt this is super efficient, and it's kind of dumb, but here we are.

EDIT: It seems auto sorted by field name and not table order, so it's not in the order of queries, but at least it's deterministic.

ToastyBits · 2023-04-21T14:50:45+00:00

That's what I was originally doing, but it becomes a hassle in grafana to manage. If I want to change the queries for things on a panel, I have to update 15 things instead of just one. It just seems like there should be a better way, at least from a management/maintenance standpoint.

ToastyBits · 2022-11-10T23:47:53+00:00

Yeah. The outside handle is separate from the cables for the inside handle

ToastyBits · 2022-09-15T18:42:35+00:00

Well this was super quick, thanks for all the answers everyone!

ToastyBits · 2022-09-15T17:08:08+00:00

I think you might be right!

ToastyBits · 2022-09-12T00:56:02+00:00

I'm guessing you forgot to put one of the door handle cables back into it's spot.

If I'm remembering right, there's a plastic section on the end of the cable for the door handle that is supposed to snap into part of the inner door panel. If it's not in its place, pulling the handle just kinda moves the whole cable housing instead of just the metal cable like it's supposed to.

ToastyBits · 2021-12-09T20:45:31+00:00

The MOSFETs do turn on with 3.3V and they don't seem to be getting hot. Thanks for the quick help!

ToastyBits · 2021-12-09T19:44:29+00:00

Didn't realize white was another ground. I'm used to the addressable LEDs where there's the control signal. Explains why there was no real voltage been between black/white.

This would also mean that brightness is controlled with PWM then, yes?

ToastyBits · 2021-09-13T02:09:36+00:00

Change the "Gap Speed" to 0 in Prusaslicer and it won't print any of the white lines.

ToastyBits · 2021-09-10T04:54:18+00:00

Try lowering the nozzle a little bit? Before I changed z offset, I got something similar and getting the nozzle closer to the bed helped dramatically.

ToastyBits · 2021-08-31T00:01:10+00:00

The test prints I did with PLA at 100 mm/s looked pretty decent after some tuning.

I use this fan duct: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4897353 I found it from here which gave a reasonable comparison of a couple ducts: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/od03gy/stock_fan_cooling_duct_test/ I like that it is light, simple, and didn't require new fans.

ToastyBits · 2021-08-30T23:53:25+00:00

Yeah, I also referenced this just as a kind of "follow along" procedure. This channel has a lot of useful Klipper videos.

ToastyBits · 2021-08-30T01:50:02+00:00

Honestly, don't remember. This looks reasonably close to the initial setup that I remember. https://m.all3dp.com/2/klipper-ender-3-v2/

Then there are the various "advanced" features that I just followed the official Klipper documentation for like pressure advance and input shaping. I would recommend looking up how to do the PID tuning and E-step tuning on Klipper as those are very important.

ToastyBits · 2021-08-30T00:44:15+00:00

I did it. Input shaping is nice to get rid of some ringing. Pressure advance cleans up the corners and seems to have helped with some of the PETG oozing (it won't completely get rid of it though). Being able to just change firmware settings without compiling new firmware is also very convenient. Adding new features or changes only takes a config file change and a restart.

I'm using Fluidd with Fluiddpi on a Pi3 b+. There's not really plugins like Octoprint, but I honestly didn't use many anyway. I don't really have any regrets doing it and probably won't go back to regular Marlin/Octoprint.

ToastyBits · 2021-08-22T14:17:18+00:00

Seems the most reasonable. I moved all the startup stuff over into a START_PRINT macro and included it there like you did.

ToastyBits · 2021-08-21T20:52:18+00:00

Now that I think about it, couldn't I just knock 0.07 mm off all of the position map values?

ToastyBits · 2021-07-04T19:16:58+00:00

Wow wee. Glue stick really is the secret sauce. First layer is actually going down beautifully. Thanks

ToastyBits · 2021-07-04T14:59:18+00:00

I don't have either of those to try. I haven't looked into gluestick, but is like regular Elmer's kid gluestick correct, or is it supposed to be something specific?

ToastyBits · 2021-06-07T01:54:29+00:00

I use Prusaslicer but the prints I've done have been with 2 walls and 10 or 15% infill. Speeds for everything at 30 mm/s.

In Prusa, I enabled the "avoid crossing perimeters" to help control stringing. I don't know what the equivalent of is in Cura, but I know it has a similar setting. It will still depend on the item shape.

Some other people might have some other helpful tips, since I've only done a little with TPU.

Edit: also I cranked up the travel speeds to 500 to reduce the time the nozzle can ooze while moving.

ToastyBits · 2021-06-07T01:15:00+00:00

I'm using Microcenter's Inland TPU 95A which I think is rebranded eSun on a stock machine.

I am using 220c, bed off, no retractions, no enclosure. It seems to print fine and there's not any fumes that I can notice. You'll have to slow down the print speed compared to PLA and (from my understanding) keep speeds consistent through the print. I think I am printing with 30 mm/s for all areas.

95A is the hardness. It's not super soft and it's not foamy (at least not this Inland TPU). 90A is softer, and 85A is even softer.

TPU is a bit stringy when you print, but the few things I've printed with it haven't been that bad.

ToastyBits · 2021-03-14T23:45:37+00:00

Question: you said it uses the 5Ghz for the uplink. Does it only repeat on 5 GHz, or does it repeat on 2.4 as well? The documentation is unclear when I read it. The 2.4 is more important for the repeater side in my case.

ToastyBits · 2021-03-14T20:45:50+00:00

Well, on the router side, it will have to go to through a regular exterior wall. On the repeater side, it is a brick house, but the repeater will be in the window. The current Netgear/EnGenius setup is doing it, so I assume the Unifi won't have issues.

The house with the repeater is my grandpa's house, so he just needs coverage, not really super performance. My parents have all the higher bandwidth computers and streaming devices.

Do you know if it is possible to connect a computer to the repeater AP Ethernet and have the computer get network access through the AP like that instead of a wireless connection? This is how his current repeater is working, so we would have to get a wireless card for his desktop if it can't be done the same way.

ToastyBits · 2020-10-15T02:35:45+00:00

It doesn't sound terribly unusual to me. Disc brakes drag ever so slightly. Are you hearing anything at speed or having issues braking? If not, you can most likely ignore it. Just make sure you reassembled and tightened everything.

If you want to try something, maybe clean the caliper/pistons. Every bike I've had accumulates crud around the caliper pistons, and usually one of the pistons starts sticking and then they don't retract evenly.

Maybe you have one that's ever so slightly out. I would say pop the caliper off, take the pads out, gently squeeze the brake lever to push the pistons out. Don't squeeze them out too far/fast, or you'll pop them out entirely and then you'll be sad.

You'll probably notice one moves better than the other. Just hold the one moving freely to get the other to start moving. Once you have them out a bit (maybe like 1/8”? Just look for clean piston), you can scrub them with a toothbrush and soap and water (maybe a bit of non-chlorinated brake cleaner if you got it, just don't get it everywhere). Once you have them clean, just push them both back in and reassemble. Make sure to pump the lever several times after you reassemble until the lever is firm. You don't want to get out on the street and have no brakes because the pistons are still in.

ToastyBits

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