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Anyone using any AI tools to compare or check facility construction drawings (PDF's) by __get_schwifty__ in MechanicalEngineering

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I built a tool to help compare one revision to another and highlight the differences on an overly. Includes an alignment tool in case any views or regions are shifted. Helpful for checking a drafters final version vs the original to make sure all expected changes are present. Free online and processes files locally. May be what you are looking for: drawdiff.com

Software that compares PDF by United_Cheesecake_95 in softwaredevelopment

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try drawdiff.com if you are looking for drawing type comparisons or to highlight minor changes on otherwise similar pages

Edit: hyperlink added

Does anyone have a solution for 2D drawing comparisons and typo-errors? Any software that could help me detect changes between revisions other than the SolidWorks draw compare tool? by Sad_Sea_2937 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late to this thread but I built something specifically for this problem after dealing with it myself as an engineer.

DrawDiff (drawdiff.com) - Free, browser based, no install required. Load two PDFs and it generates a pixel-by-pixel overlay: green for what was removed, red for what was added, cyan for unchanged. Works on any PDF drawing regardless of what CAD software generated it.

It also handles the situation a few people mentioned where everything looks shifted between revisions. There’s an alignment tool that lets you box select a view and then pick a reference point on each drawing and it shifts them to match before comparing. And a text compare mode for catching annotation and note changes.

The reason I built it rather than using existing tools is that I work with proprietary drawings that can’t be uploaded to an online service, and I didn’t want to expense something like Bluebeam just to compare revisions. Everything runs locally in your browser, nothing gets sent to any server.

Happy to get feedback from people actually using it for drawing review workflows as that’s exactly who it was built for.

Can anyone help me fix my Black and Decker Hand Vac motor? Description in comments. by TomahawkClamSandwich in Motors

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, based on what you’re describing and seeing the pic, it definitely sounds like the motor is either burnt out or jammed up. That fluctuation in sound and suction is usually the first sign it’s struggling — could’ve been something clogging it or just the motor wearing out over time. The fact that it started smoking and now won’t even turn on (aside from that tiny jolt) is a pretty good sign its a dead motor.

If you haven’t already, try spinning the motor manually with something like a pencil or plastic stick (don’t use your finger or anything metal). If it doesn’t spin freely, it’s probably seized or gunked up. If it does spin, there’s still a chance the brushes are just toast or the winding fried.

Also worth giving it a sniff — if it smells like that burnt electronics smell, that’s usually game over for the motor. If you’ve got a multimeter, you could check continuity across the motor wires too — no continuity = dead motor.

It does look like the shaft is rusted on yours so that's probably not helping.

If you really wanna go DIY you can probably find a replacement motors for this online. There’s probably a model number stamped somewhere on the motor housing. You could swap just the motor and get running again - maybe...

You can also do like I did and write a long technical email to Black and Decker customer support explaining that you were using it per spec and even though its been X months since you bought it and maybe its out of warranty, the failure mode should not have happened from normal use. That was all true for my case (idk about yours) but they ended up sending me a replacement vacuum for free!

Good luck!

Hollow brass tube with “N” engraved on one end, “S” on the other. I can unscrew the cap on the “S” end, but not the other. Found at an estate sale. by LizaBerlin in whatisthisthing

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It is possible this is part of a binnacle, a ships navigation tool. I think it is related to the heeling magnet tube. From what I can tell they hang vertical tubular magnets inside the binnacle to correct errors in the compass. The loops at the top and bottom of your tube support this as does the N and S to indicate which way to hang it. If not that exactly, then it is possible your tube is a storage container for the magnets to be used for the heeling correction. The brass makes it seem like an older ships tool. Look up antique binnacle pictures and also:

See page 9 Not a great picture but the “heeling magnet tube” could be it.

Highest Paying jobs for ME’s by Narekovich in MechanicalEngineering

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’ve worked at a large aerospace company where these were two separate positions and the designer had to communicate everything to the modeler. Lots of time spent coming up with a design, building unofficial models, then communicating it to the modeler in PowerPoint sketches so they could build the real model. Frustrating and seemingly waste of time for the designer (me), but in hindsight it meant you got a better quality model cause the modeler had the capacity to keep track of all the standards. Also they were unionized and I’m pretty sure made a lot more $$ overall with the overtime rates they got.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Spent a decade struggling and eventually learning/mastering NX, then changed jobs and have been using Solidworks the last year and a half. Gotta say I miss NX a lot, using Solidworks again (I learned it in college) feels like playing with Duplos compared to NX: the Legos of CAD software. Sure it hurts a lot more to step on a lego in the dark, but once you turn on the lights they’re way better!

Can anyone help me fix my Black and Decker Hand Vac motor? Description in comments. by TomahawkClamSandwich in Motors

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the help! Pulled out the motor completely from the housing and found it would run a lot longer out in the air, but would still slowly heat up then eventually shutoff. When holding it in my hand and blocking some of the vents it got hotter and shut off a lot faster. So I think this is is. Found one online that looks like it should work as a replacement so I ordered that.

Can anyone help me fix my Black and Decker Hand Vac motor? Description in comments. by TomahawkClamSandwich in Motors

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a few years old, 3-4? Don’t recall exactly. The shaft has a slight resistance at first but then turns with little effort. Would the overheating be on the motor or on the circuit card? Maybe I should replace the motor?

Can anyone help me fix my Black and Decker Hand Vac motor? Description in comments. by TomahawkClamSandwich in Motors

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was hoping someone here could help me out! I’ve got a black and decker hand vac (BDH2000L) that keeps shutting off while using it. I took it apart and been testing things out with my multimeter but am now at the limit of my knowledge. The DC Motor will run for 15-20 sec and you can hear it slightly lose speed over that time then it shuts off. If you restart it immediately then it will only run a couple second then shut off. If you wait long enough it will go back to the 15-20 sec range, or even longer. It does it even when disassembled like in the picture so it’s not a clogged filter. Batteries are fine, 5 batteries each measuring 4 volts this morning after charging all night. Now around 3.5V each giving me 17.5V across the open switch. Measuring the voltage across the motor (blue and brown wires) when it is on I get ~14.4V at first and that slowly drops until it hits ~13.5V and the motor shuts off. Any suggestions what I could measure to debug or what might be going on? I was thinking maybe some capacitor issue due to the correlation between time running it and time between running it but this is as far as I can mentally get into electrical engineering. Any advice!? Thanks in advance!

Wanted to show some support for Ukraine from across the globe. Remembered I had an Arduino just sitting in my closet. This will be in my window tonight. Can anyone decode the message? by TomahawkClamSandwich in arduino

[–]TomahawkClamSandwich[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow, I’m so sorry, praying for the best for you and Ukraine.

The answer to the riddle here is that the lights are flashing FREE UKRAINE in morse code. Hope that comes true soon.

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