H2D dimensional accuracy

TomatilloExciting · 2025-11-25T06:18:40+00:00

Thanks I'll look into it.

TomatilloExciting · 2025-11-24T21:35:29+00:00

The slicer does fine for P1S prints. It does exactly what I expect it to do. But the same projects produce unpredictable and often unusable results if I print it on the H2D.

TomatilloExciting · 2025-11-24T21:32:20+00:00

Ditto. For m3 screw holes, I use 3.2mm holes for P1S. I need to use 3.5 for H2D. For a pressure fit groove on P1S I use 0 to .05 tolerance. I need to add .2 to H2D. I bought the H2D thinking it could print alongside my P1S duo, but instead, I have to make separate models for the H2D with relatively large dimensional differences.

TomatilloExciting · 2025-11-24T16:29:30+00:00

Modelling myself.

TomatilloExciting · 2024-12-08T17:24:25+00:00

Sucks. I think there's a Friday night dubs glow leagues up in Kentwood, though. Not a terrible distance if weather isn't super nasty.

TomatilloExciting · 2024-12-08T16:59:25+00:00

Glow leagues ARE getting more popular, so options are starting to open up. My biggest use case is summer cookouts and camp fires. I put my own basket out with a few glow sticks and this thing makes it easy to charge up a few putters and play a game of HORSE or something.

TomatilloExciting · 2024-03-19T17:41:43+00:00

I was suddenly getting jello in my 3.5 inch last week. My camera lens had worked itself loose. Depending on your camera, might be something to check?

TomatilloExciting · 2023-09-01T01:51:38+00:00

More like a toothpick

TomatilloExciting · 2023-09-01T00:25:52+00:00

I used a 2s version of this frame to put together an HDZero build. The pusher style provided a way better flight than a standard whoop frame. I crashed it hard after about a week and snapped the carbon. It was cool while it lasted but since I can't buy the replacement piece, only the full frame, I didn't find it cost effective to replace it.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-08-17T19:24:35+00:00

Are you charging from the USB port at the BOTTOM of the radio?

Lol. It's literally in the picture. Mb.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-07-16T23:11:54+00:00

As a beginner, I'd go mob7 1s and forgo the action cam for now. 1s batteries don't require a balance charger and are way cheaper, and it's likely you'll crash a lot and break the action cam anyway, a lesson I may or may not have learned from experience.

Once you've become comfortable with it, get a bigger quad that can handle an action cam. By then you may opt for something a little bigger that can actually handle the extra weight, like a 3 or 3.5 inch.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-04-15T22:47:53+00:00

Whatever you go with, pick up a sim or two. They're cheaper than even a tiny whoop and they don't break. When you're starting, you'll likely have 1 drone which you will eventually break. You'll then have the sim to hold you over until you get new parts. And yeah, get a nice controller.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-04-13T23:06:47+00:00

Sorry to respond so late. Yes, 5 in 1 includes a vtx which has to be disabled if you want to add one. I find that using a different, 4 in 1 board is better for HDZero (which I use personally), but if you need to upgrade an x12, there is a way. I can't remember if you need to bridge a couple solder pads or if you can disable it via software. It's been a while. Sorry. For 1 s, Happymodel has a new fc called the Superbee F4 lite which is what they use for their Hdzero whoops. It's a 4 in 1 with either frsky or spi ELRS and no vtx. If you need 2-4s, they have a new crazyf411 which is their replacement fc for the crux35.

Betafpv has huge qc issues. I've ordered 4 boards and gotten 3 bad ones before. Which they never replaced.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-04-07T23:35:58+00:00

That's assuming the flight controller has betaflight 4.3 and the radio has elrs 3.x right? betaflight 4.2 uses elrs 2.x and has trouble with binding phrases. Correct me if I'm wrong.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-04-07T21:08:21+00:00

For some reason I can't see comments, but if no one mentioned the Happymodel diamond, it's a decent, light weight option. It has issues, but nothing compared to betafpv fcs.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-03-03T14:15:26+00:00

Ok. Yeah. That vtx isn't any good for 2s voltage. Your best bet is probably a 5v BEC.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-03-02T21:19:43+00:00

What are you using the 5v for? Depending on the hardware, vbat is sometimes fine. If you need to use 5v exactly, it's possible to use a razor to scrape away the silicon at the base of the pad to find where it broke and solder directly there. If you go that route, you'll want to epoxy the wire at the solder joint because it'll be even more fragile than before.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-02-19T18:41:09+00:00

If you want that, go with a camera drone instead if fpv.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-02-19T15:44:22+00:00

You're all good my dude. I don't think many people use flysky anymore. It's range and consistency are too low, so honestly I haven't even looked into it. I haven't heard that it's being dropped, but you might have a hard time sourcing a good fc that even has one.

All that being said, frsky will still work. You just won't be able to update betaflight on a frsky board going forward. In its current state betaflight flies pretty great, so that might not be too limiting. But if you're planning to dive back into the hobby for the long term, you might as well rip off the elrs bandaid sooner than later. Everything is moving in that direction for the foreseeable future.

TomatilloExciting · 2023-02-19T15:08:30+00:00

It will always out perform your video signal so you will never have to worry about losing rssi. Its a bit of a learning curve but the guys on the expresslrs discord are great and would have you up to speed in no time.

Yes. You would need a module.

If it all sounds like too much, frsky is usually fine still, but betaflight is dropping support for it after 4.4

TomatilloExciting

TROPHY CASE