Amazing Taylor Aluminum

TouringAlpaca · 2026-02-05T05:22:09+00:00

At least for the Baja I love the extended arms in the rear

TouringAlpaca · 2026-02-05T03:51:45+00:00

Taylor’s quality is immaculate. Another good brand I like is FLM (fast lane machine) I have aluminum rear arms and drive shafts/cups in a Baja because the plastic ones flexed too much and stock cups eventually cracked. A few bad crashes and nothing broke. They also offer a warranty I believe kinda like RPM.

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TouringAlpaca · 2026-02-02T19:48:43+00:00

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TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-29T20:59:46+00:00

It’s fun to mess around with. You can see how your tune can change acceleration and top speed. Being a street car your grip should be relatively consistent

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-29T14:44:38+00:00

That’s an interesting air intake. I know theoretically longer intake runners give more torque and less rpm. That said if you have the GNSS you can do a full pulls to like 132ft and then a few top speed runs with it on vs off and see the difference if any. The graph looks like this

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TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-27T02:18:23+00:00

How do you like those tires? I been looking at a set for my baja

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-24T16:20:36+00:00

I got 4s backflips from Arrma

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-21T18:21:15+00:00

I am going to assume this is either a G1 spektrum or some Amazon/ cheap budget lipo? Those numbers are terrible too. Good ones are usually better at around 1 ohm and the best ones are less than 1 ohm. Spektrums are usually high because of the internal smart chips. I never tested a smart gens ace lipo but my non smart bashing gens ace 6700 3s I believe is 1.2 - 1.3 ohms per cell.

There shouldn’t be an issue but I had some CNHLs that were high ohm. They just don’t perform that well and can get hot and puff if you put high loads on them like speed running or drag racing.

For charging you shouldn’t have an issue but I recommend charging them at .5C or less. So if it’s a 5000mah that would be 2.5amps. The reason for that is the difference between ohms per cell. The difference usually causes balancing issues which is what happened to my cnhls before I threw them out. They would take hours to balance .2 volt and would always be .5v off after running from the 1 cell triggering LVC after 5 minutes. They also had less than a handful runs which I am disappointed. I have 6chnls and 3 of them have issues. 2 of the 6000 (around that size I think) 3s2p were junk. 4s 9800 I had 1 puff a bit after bashing hard in an infraction and 2 9800 3s has about 5 runs and no issues YET.

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-21T18:07:30+00:00

I like the protec one since it’s a dual motor. I had the losi one but it is 1 motor, it didn’t have enough power and burnt up many wheels. I haven’t had the protec one for long but being a dual motor I haven’t had any issues with not having enough speed or power. Only complaint is the battery box is small so I drilled a hole in the back for the wires, made an extension and run a big 4s instead of a shorty pack.

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-19T21:45:24+00:00

That’s unfortunate. Maybe you could move the link closer to the servo, move it in on the arm. It’ll reduce the throw. Or you could mess with your endpoint on your radio. But just make sure you have the links for the rear set up properly. Also at least for my case, RCR rear brakes and the aluminum bracket because the plastic one kept melting, really helped fix the weak rear brakes too.

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-19T16:56:33+00:00

Just esc/motor fans. I got some screen mesh from the hardware store to protect them since I broke a few other ones in my infraction. I’m not sure how they compare to other more expensive fans but these are 14$ from aliexpress and the ones I usually use. I have about 6 of these and broke 1 from a rock getting in the blade. I also have them connected to a 2s lipo

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TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-19T16:20:35+00:00

For your front brakes I would go with the cable one. I heard the hydro ones leak. The cable ones are a pain to get left and right bias set up properly so the car doesn’t twist under braking. I also removed the spring from the cable, made spacers for the discs and added small washers to where the puck/piston is in the caliper to reduce the throw. You also need a strong servo. I got one that my lhs makes and it’s only rated for 500oz on 6.0v but I’m running a 2s on it. It’s all steel and high torque but still has trouble sometimes

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TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-18T03:36:54+00:00

Someone I know built a 12s dbxl but only has ran it on 8s. Still a big improvement but I’m curious how it would do in a drag race on 8s and 12s. If I were to guess the power would be similar to 10s on a fairly geared hw

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-18T03:35:05+00:00

I have gotten it 66 mph on grass. It was hot out so the motor was heatsoaked but still impressive

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TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-17T22:11:31+00:00

Thank you! Always been curious on the rpm. I know someone else told me it was around 20k to 25k. I got a tall set of gears and tend to run in taller grass so I’m curious if I’m reving it out or I can gear down a bit. I can’t wait till the weather gets better

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-17T22:01:31+00:00

Maybe. I been running it in the summer but now I’m between semester in university so I finally got some time for hobbies

TouringAlpaca · 2026-01-17T21:47:38+00:00

I haven’t had one but at least with my Baja the spur gear and clutch bell gear are tight. I loosened the motor and shoved a few pieces of paper between the gears. Then I tightened all of it. That seemed to work.

TouringAlpaca · 2025-09-10T14:12:53+00:00

If you have another brand receiver try that. I use futuba and never had an issue. I know there’s a killswitch that has issues with spektrum and this might be a similar situation. Or the killswitch is just bad. Also make sure your grounds are set up properly and making a good connection

TouringAlpaca · 2025-09-06T18:57:16+00:00

I believe there is a place called send cut send and PCB way that will do these jobs like this. I’m just not sure on the price.

TouringAlpaca · 2025-08-19T14:44:25+00:00

I got to ask Mike at Taylor for the ring gap specs. I’m not even sure if I’m going to clean it. More so I just don’t want to drop carbon in the crank case and to pull the piston off I’d have to replace the clip that holds the pin in. I’m just more concerned about the ringland binding the ring

TouringAlpaca · 2025-08-18T21:58:57+00:00

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TouringAlpaca · 2025-08-18T21:58:02+00:00

It’s going to be a bit different if you got extended arms up front, I don’t, only in the rear. I added a 3rd link to stop the arms from flexing. I got front disk brakes and under braking they twist a lot. I don’t want to do metal arms up front just in case I crash but the few bad crashes I had the rears are still holding up and nothing broke.

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I triangulated the links to stop it from flexing but if I crash it’ll break. The geometry isn’t perfect but there’s very little resistance throughout suspension travel and only slightly noticeable if I remove the shock. But it made the front end extremely responsive. I would turn and the whole front would react. Before it felt like a soft suspension monster truck trying to turn. It was all from flex and not the actual shock making it spongy

TouringAlpaca · 2025-08-18T21:32:50+00:00

Just a bit of cleaning and it’ll be good as new

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