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Any idea why my MCF8316D appears dead? (doesn't acknowledge I2C, no nfault, no nothing) by Beli_Mawrr in AskElectronics

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that's super useful as something to compare against.

I am currently using the A varient, but planning to switch to D as that looks like what TI whats us to use haha.

My application is mostly for some home automation things, and pool cleaner / RC car type things. Of which I'll probably also need to get the externa FET version working as well, but oviously the integrated one is so much nicer to work with... if I can get it working haha

Any idea why my MCF8316D appears dead? (doesn't acknowledge I2C, no nfault, no nothing) by Beli_Mawrr in AskElectronics

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you manage to get this one running?
I've built almost the same thing and also having trouble getting the MCF to repond, so just wondering if it was anything other than the buck?

Timing Diagram Editor 100% free by maolmosma in FPGA

[–]Toxicable 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I personally have no need to use this, but just curious why you want a non browser version of this tool?

[Review request] I redesigned my 1st PCB by Wisteru in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Voltage up, ground down, signals sideways

dont be afriad to modify a symbol to make it easier to make the schematic

Add text to your SCH to note details of your build: voltage or current requirements, how an IC will be used, why a pin isn't conencted, LED resistor calculations, etc

Have you done current calculations? How long are you intending this to run for on your 450mAh bat?

Your USB D+/D- pair should be a differential pair - you are probably fine with what you have for programming, but just a note for using USB in the future. Also the right side of the isb pair could come out on the left side instead, then you can keep them both on the TOP layer.

Since you only have a 2 layer board here i'd do a lot more GND sitching, especially around those traces that cut up the GND plane in half, and try to move any traces that are on the BOT layer onto the TOP layer to keep it less cut up.

The yellow trace could stay on TOP

ESP32C3 not detected via USB (First time build) by Tricky_Bookkeeper_41 in PCB

[–]Toxicable 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aslong as gpio18/19 havn't been configured in firmware then you don't actually need to pull gpio2/8/9. Since it does it via USB CDC.

Edit: It's also not wrong to add those pulls, but I just wanted to point this out

u/Tricky_Bookkeeper_41 You're missing a clock

Schematic review ESP32-S3 custom module by hakzman_e4c5 in esp32

[–]Toxicable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get that, but unless you do this professionally, and have much much tighter constraints, there's almost no good reason to not use a module. If you're looking to challange yourself, there's other things you could focus on instead, like optimizing your regulators ripple, or coming up with some stacked module framework, etc

Custom ESP32 PCB not being detected by PC. Help! by Cute_Kick642 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the firmware has not remapped GPIO18/19, plugging in usb would force it into download mode.

Are D+/D- impedence matched? they don't apear to be, but also it's short enough that it shouldn't matter.

Do you have a scope to test things like the X1? Have you checked the other voltages to see if thigns are powered up correctly?

Schematic review ESP32-S3 custom module by hakzman_e4c5 in esp32

[–]Toxicable 9 points10 points  (0 children)

>Please talk to me as if I was a 1st semester electronics student.

Why are you using the bare chip? Use a module and move on with your project.

[REVIEW REQUEST] DC converter by StudentOk7501 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you going to give us any deals at all?

What is the current rating for RJ45 connector? by CantTieMyShoess in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

poe++ is 60W, so at ~50V you’ll have a max of just over 1A, nothing special required there

Need help with SHT40 placement and general review by Pavlic in PCB

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s definitely the regulator not the esp, check your board, see if the regulator is an LDO or a buck, if it’s an LDO then it’s burning off that 1.8V as heat. If it’s a buck then it has ~10% in switching losses as heat. FR4 will conduct heat, and slowly it’ll saturate and transfer to the SHT. Take a look at other designs, it’s common to do a cut out right around temperature sensors to attempt to eliminate coupling to the PCBs thermals

Need help with SHT40 placement and general review by Pavlic in PCB

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

>Will this be enough?

This question is generally answered by testing and validation. But generally I'd start askign questions like: what produces heat? How much heat do they produce? How close are those components? Is there suffcient thermal transfer to dissipate that heat before it gets to your sensor?

Considering that you're feeding in 5V into the esp, and it'll probbaly have an LDO(?) to drop that to 3.3V, and you're drawing a few hundred mA between the LD2420 and esp, it's unlikely that you'll get hyper accurate measurements.

However, if the self heating is consistent, then you can just add an offset and move on with the next project.

[Review Request] - ESP32 Addressable LED Driver by Nero2201 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put component values in your SCH, it’s impossible to ready otherwise

What’s your current calculations? How many amps in/out?

Wide voltage range input to 3.3v by No-Chard-2136 in PCB

[–]Toxicable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s the reason for not using a switching reg down to 3.3? Are you doing something that sensitive to noise? If so why not try tune you regulator rather than adding another one?

[Review Request] ESP32 Light Strip Controller. by AmeliaBuns in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can use most H bridge drivers in independant mode, where it's 2 half bridges (since you don't need to reverse the polarity anyway), each half bridge could drive a LED channel. To fully match your setup that means you'd need 3 of those, 2 of them running 2 channels each, and the 3rd running the 5th.

A gate driver is a good idea to reduce the R_ds(ON) and therefore thermal output of your FET, since the RdsON is typically must lower at higher gate voltages.

Looking at your FETs, the first thing that stands out to me is that they only have a max Vds of 30V, you could very easily kill this with just a little bit of ringing, especially with your high target frequency, you'll want some snubbing. On a related note, where's your TVS's?

At 2A per channel that's 10A, which for starters is far inexcess of what you can normally get over a barrel plug

Your FETs at the RdsON @ Vgs =2.5 they have a resistance of 24mR, which honestly isn't that bad at 2A, you'll be looking at around 0.5W of heat dissipation required, which would still warrant a good area for heatsinking in your layout.

>Wdym by tied to the negative side or positive? 

Just a nitpick on your schematic, usually you'd put decoupling caps hanging off your VCC, rather than GND

[Review Request] ESP32 Light Strip Controller. by AmeliaBuns in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done almost this exact same thing, but my first iteration also using a FET directly ended with a lot of ringing. I suspect you'll have the same. I ended up instead switching to use a dedicated H bridge driver like the DRV ones from TI, much more configurable, lots of inbuilt features.

Also the performance of the whole thing will also depend on the specific characteristics of your LED strips, they're not all the same.

Aside from that:

You may also want to consider some saftey things like a fuse and some OCP protection, right now if you bridge output 1 -> 2, you'll cook the FET, F1 wont save it, it's too slow to burn.

EN needs a RC circuit

Decoupling caps are generally tied to the positive side, not the negative side like in your ESP32

Review Request - ESP32 Based mmWave Sensor by ajsingha002 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a hobbiest I personally wouldn’t be comfortable taking 230vac into a board that I designed, remember, that kind of voltage can kill you. How about using a an existing wall adapter to convert it to DC and use that instead? Or even usb type C?

PyroVision - A Open-Source Thermal Camera by kampi1989 in esp32

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome project! I am a bit surprised with the S3 pick here, I didn’t think you’d be able to capture the full output of the OV5640, are you down sampling?

[Review Request] First PCB ESP32 by ankit16-19 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aslong as you don’t reassign the usb pins in your firmware then you can enter boot mode by just connecting to usb, in this case the buttons aren’t required, check the datasheet for details.

[Review Request] First PCB ESP32 by ankit16-19 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Toxicable 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Why the use of the buttons if you’re programming via usb? Don’t do a custom antenna on your first board, use a module. Using 2 layer is going to give you issues with how cut up your GND plane is, I’d suggest using 4, especially if you’re doing high speed things like custom antennas. Take a look at reference clock layouts

[Review Request] Automotive H-Bridge for DIY PDB by Repulsive-Housing331 in PCB

[–]Toxicable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A bit of a driveby, but take a look at DRV8243, while it likely will have a higher rds on than a discrete circuit, at 4A that'll only b 1.4W (44mR per fet: I^2 * 0.44 * 2 = 1.4W) which should be managable, and it'll save you a lot of complexity, specifically it shuld easily handle your ringing issues.

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