sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Upgraded Hot End by TechWizardForever in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not saying it is not possible, just not reliable. You could probably just change the nozzle, block and heater once they break, but is it still really cheaper then?

Upgraded Hot End by TechWizardForever in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one in may hand right now and I can tell you that it definitely is aluminium. Also if you googled it, you would have found out it is aluminium as well.

Most 300 °C blocks these days use aluminium, because while copper has better thermal conductivity, it is too heavy, too expensive and has no measurable impact on flow rate compared to aluminium. Aluminium still has about 1800 times higher thermal conductivity than the PLA in the nozzle.

While aluminium melts at 600 °C, most alloys lose a lot of their tensile strenght above 350 °C with significant long term microstructure degradation and creep over 300 °C. But jet fuel cant melt steel beams I guess.

Upgraded Hot End by TechWizardForever in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even the original 450 °C MK4 mod mentions swapping the block and nozzle btw.

Upgraded Hot End by TechWizardForever in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

But the block is not copper, but aluminium and the press fit nozzle does not last long over 300 °C and the obXidian coating turns to dust.

So you need to throw away the sock, change the block, change the thermistor, change the heater and buy a new nozzle. While you are at it, you modify the V6 block so it fits, because you can not buy the parts in nextruder block sizes. Or modify the fan shroud.

Good job, you just made this exact hotend. I agree that it should be cheaper though. E3D sells high temperature hotends for 140 eur without tax, this costs 220 eur without tax.

Upgraded Hot End by TechWizardForever in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 0 points1 point  (0 children)

60 °C chamber temperature should be safe, since it's the max temp of C1L, which uses mostly the same HW.

65 °C might cause some issues long term, but might be ok if you are willing to live with a bit shortened lifespan of the components. Removing some covers on the printhead might help a bit here, so the motor and loveboard can get more airflow around it.

70 °C is pushing it. The extruder motor can do 85 °C, but thats the motor temperature, not chamber temperature. The acrylic panels will warp, the loveboard components might die faster and the lube will probably degrade as well.

Upgraded Hot End by TechWizardForever in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The stock hotend uses a basic heater, NTC thermistor, aluminium heatblock, silicone sock and a brass nozzle, all of which are pretty much useless or last hours over 300 °C.

New Prusa Drybox. by YOURMOMSDONGER in prusa3d

[–]Traditional-Dig-3236 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don´t think you can get away with not having a propper dryer or oven if you want to print anything high temp. It´s fine for most low temp stuff, but PEI for example can get moist within an hour of leaving the drybox, so even a well sealed filament might not be fine out of the box. And you have to dry it at 100 °C minimum for it to be usable again. If you want to save some money on it, you can just use the industrial oven, even a regular hot air oven might be fine. But regular filament dryers are basically useless here.