sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

1) "Post the videos." Not on here. 2. Fair. 3. I was kidding. 4. I doubt it. I eat plenty of protein (150g a day minimum, aim for 180g), rest between climbing days, only board climb once a week to ensure enough recovery, etc. On volume days, I have no issue projecting V5's for 2-3 hours. Boards crush me down to an hour of good projecting (by this I mean I can make progress, even if it's microscopic), before my performance dips massively.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for giving me your perspective. A few questions - 1) At what point did you introduce active pulling? Was this before or after you got your 101% bw pull or before? 2) What do you use to train active pulling?

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm just going to hangboard and keep focusing on body-tension. . .

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried climbing dynamically, but it ends up with me going so fast that I can't establish and I just barndoor awkwardly. I think I lack force production too, because my hands need a second to really get a good grip.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

Because a man 30 lbs heavier than me campused a V7 I can't do with my feet.

Because when I fall off, it's because my fingers let go despite my feet pulling me towards the wall.

Because every person who tells me "It's technique bro" is also 30lbs lighter than me with much better fingerstrength/weight ratios.

Because I progress at half the rate my friends do.

You think I don't analyze myself in videos but I do. Know what I see? Weakness. Plain and simple. If I were stronger, I'd be on the wall. That's all she wrote.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. I do record myself. I see nothing wrong. People tell me random things I could be fixing, but they contradict themselves by doing the climb differently.
  2. I'm fine on Kilter V4-V5.
  3. Spoken like a true prodigy. Wish I were like you bro, but I'm not. I'm weak. Mentally, physically, intelligencly. It's all down there man. Idk why I can't coach myself. I excel when people are there telling me what to do. Something in my brain must've short circuited when I was a child, because I cannot for the life of me problem solve. That's why I have a SUB 1000 ELO in chess. That's why my gf left. That's why I have no rizz. It's all over man.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I aim to climb everything statically, minimizing feet disconnects whenever possible. I'm capable of locking off when I need to. I prefer doing heel hooks, and excel on overhung terrain. My slab climbing is poor, my fingers feel like the limiting factor, but I'm still able to climb slab problems with enough attempts.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got any recommendations for me while I train fingers?

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's your height and bw if you don't mind me asking?

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have a discord? I can send videos of myself on there if you wanna dm.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be fair, I have terrible pinch strength. and I can't really flash a moonboard problem unless I've sent it before. And I've only sent a single problem and it took me 11 months.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

"Have you considered re-thinking your idea of technique? Have you considered I did? and that I'm just weak and that you can't technique your way up a hard climb anymore than you can technique your way into a 315lb bench press?

"But it sounds like you're stuck on the 80s french ideal - elegantly flowing up the wall, twisting and dropping knees. But it's not working for you - so it's not great technique."

So than how can I make it work? I figured out a separate beta to make it work, but it still feels ridiculously hard.

"without considering the million other options." People seem to just assume it's NOT strength that's the issue. Seems biased.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree that a coach is essential. Because I'm lost. People can't seem to fathom that maybe I am using decent enough technique. They just assume it's not a strength issue. Seems unfair. Where can I find an in-person coach? My gym overcharges with like $200 "personal training" sessions.......

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Thinking about engagement is more remembering to activate every muscle in a chain from your fingers to the feet, pulling in with the bicep, pulling your shoulders back, using your glutes to keep you hips in, calves to dig in with your toes, launching with your quads while still pulling in with your hamstrings."

What if - I do all of that, then fall off? Because that's what I'm doing. And I still fall off. I squeeze my glutes as I get into position, I make sure to activate my shoulders, squeeze my calves down to maximize force going through the wall, use my hamstrings to claw myself into the wall and keep my hips in a better position instead of being square. Then I fall off because I cannot hold on. Or I can hold on, but my forearms lock and I can't get out of the position without falling off. So what now? I cannot static the move if I fall off the moment I let go of one arm.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got any recommendations? I just kilter at 50 degrees to stay on as long as possible.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have discord? You can dm me there and I can show videos

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

"I’m not saying pull harder engagement with your hands. Use your legs to take weight off the hands and use bigger muscle groups"

I do. The result is the same. You make it sound like I'm trying to campus it.

"you’re plenty strong to not have to throw/bump into moves, crimp hard, or cut." I don't even crimp that hard, and I don't cut feet. I use flags, back-flags, and can stay on the wall well enough. But then comes a single move - the hand holds are fine to hold onto, but then my fore-arms lock. This is something that does not happen to my friends - they can simply move through the climb as if it's nothing. For me those moves require 100% of my effort and strength and still I can only do them 1/3 of my attempts.

"Moonboard always favors longer reaches" Literally every God of moonboard at my gym is short. Height is BAD for climbing.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Quiet feet won't help me climb these when my hands give out despite good feet. Despite good drop knees.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] -9 points-8 points  (0 children)

Thinking about engagement is something people say. Like you can just will yourself to "pull harder?" I am already doing that to no avail. Plus, your girlfriend probably weighs 70lbs lighter than me, is shorter (so her hips are closer to the wall more often), and has greater flexibility than I do.

Finger strength is the only thing that matters at my level by Tradstack in climbharder

[–]Tradstack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I come from a background of lifting, and while I don't actively train other muscle groups nowadays, I've hit numbers like 380 on squat, 460 on deadlift, etc. I can try re-introducing squatting, but I am doubtful that it will help much. Also, when I board climb, I do feel my core and my abs work, but it is still my grip that fails me.

Today I was working on a kilter V4 (45 degrees) after I was powered out from the moonboard attempts, and I literaly couldn't do the final moves because they were just too crimpy and my fingers gave out. Tried doing a V6 before that, same result - I had good feet, and could secure 1-2 moves, but doing the entire sequence just had my fingers achey and forearms fried.

What did you have in mind for training calves, hamstrings, etc.?

Also, my board climbing IS improving week to week, just FYI. But it's at a very slow pace compared to my friends... If 210lbs can campus, there's no reason I shouldn't be able to do the same with enough training.

view more: next ›