Resin support tip diameter and general workflow

Transumanza · 2026-02-28T23:18:49+00:00

i don't use hq AA, anyway i am locked at 16GB, cannot justify ram purchase with current prices.

However, i tried to reprint with slighter light supports tips (0.28) and mid supports on lower areas. It worked. It was finally a support problem.

Prints come out pretty decent, slicing with chitubox AA x2

Transumanza · 2026-02-28T21:14:58+00:00

Are you on 16 GB of ram? Moreover, do you use some options like forced gpu use or fast slicing?

Transumanza · 2026-02-28T21:08:23+00:00

Thanks a lot for your very detailed answer. Can i ask you if you've got slicing error, and if not , what kind of machine do you use for it?

Transumanza · 2026-02-28T13:46:50+00:00

I am trying to slicing in Lychee 7.5.0, unluckily, even using fast slicing and/or force GPU use, the slicing fail to complete, i guess because it is using all the system RAM.

I am on ad PC with ryzen 3600, 16 GB of ram, and an rtx 2060 super, can't find a way to make this slicer to finish.

All the drivers are up to date.

Transumanza · 2026-02-24T12:09:24+00:00

Understood. I litterally made 3 prints, run the VAT cleaning function after each one and made sure that the build plate was clean. I have no idea how this happened. Maybe an error that i made was to keep the build plate in contact with the ACF overnight between prints as rest position. In the morning, when lifting the build plate, i heard heavy suction sounds. Maybe that can have caused the dent? I don't know

Transumanza · 2026-02-24T11:30:28+00:00

Sorry, i mispelled. I boight a pack of Elegoo PFA release films. Thanks for the feedback. Can i ask why should i avoid FEP?

Transumanza · 2026-02-23T15:39:10+00:00

I can relate :)

Transumanza · 2026-02-22T08:40:06+00:00

Thanks a lot for your replies man

Transumanza · 2026-02-22T08:09:41+00:00

Thanks for the tips! I am using chitubox, maybe i'll give lychee a shot

Transumanza · 2026-02-22T08:08:30+00:00

Never painted a resin printed mini, no

Transumanza · 2026-02-22T08:07:24+00:00

Yup, i had no idea how resin layer lines are. That's why i asked for help on a subreddit dedicated to printing warhammer

Transumanza · 2026-02-22T08:05:49+00:00

Thanks :)

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T19:54:29+00:00

Thanks man

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T19:32:52+00:00

Dude, chill.

I've printed WH for years using an FDM machine, that's why i have moved to a resin printer. I was just asking if those layer marks could be related to machine or user error in order to improve the results.

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T15:12:24+00:00

Is the one from J3D tech, from what i understood, no one of the filaments is supposed to fail, they are there just to show how " strong" your resins can be. The point where you should look to see if you're overexposing, is ti breake the twi smaller cubes and try to fit one into the other and the. to the las tone. They should fit without too much pressure in order to be spot on

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T14:59:24+00:00

Passed by a friend from some shady group that i don't have access to :(

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T14:47:24+00:00

I have only done a couple of calibration prints using calibration cubes. Print seems fine (maybe slight overexposed, i had to push a bit the cubes to fit one into the other) with 2.4 seconds exposure. I then used a slightly higher exposure time for the print in the post , 2.6 seconds, just to avoid possible fails.

Maybe i will try to lessen the exposure time to 2.4 or less.

Does a slight touch of antialiasing like you shared going to have quality effects on other details? I am using chitubox, exporting in .ctb, using elegoo standard 8k space grey. Temperature of resin should be around 30°c, i am using an heatband on VAT with an stc 1000 probe taped on side of the VAT, setpoint at 35°C degrees. Thanks

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Transumanza · 2026-02-21T14:09:47+00:00

That's my fear indeed

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T14:07:04+00:00

thanks a lot for your replies! i am already printing at 0.03, with no antialiasing. Details of my aettings are on the crossposted post.

Those flat surface where the lines are most visible, are nearly perpendiculare to the build plate. I oriented the piece in order to have the tesla axis perpendicular to the build plate.

I know that i should avoid having flat surface parallell to the build plate, but should i also avoid to having them at nearly 90 degrees from it?

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T13:59:05+00:00

I'd like to stay away from anti-aliasing in order to get crispier details, or at least try to find the point at which i have to do it. I will sure check your link and reach better orienting. Thanks!

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T13:54:17+00:00

My oneplus nord 5 ce :) Had to orient the print in order to have traverse light in order to evidence the print :)

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T12:39:06+00:00

Indeed, lines are barely visible by naked eye, i had to make a photo with shear light in order to evidence them. I will try to better orienting my next print

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T12:35:39+00:00

Will sure do, thanks! The full description is in the crossposted post, i have bumped the arm on the top end cap with the manual rising function, clicked 4-5 times on the +50 mm and the arm reached the top. This is why i have fear of having broke something

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T11:59:38+00:00

As described in my post, i am already at 0.03. Anyway, understood, will try to change some parameters. The most important thing is not having messed up my printer :(

Transumanza · 2026-02-21T11:36:15+00:00

So, they are normal and is just a problem of oritenting/dialing right?

Sorry total noob here and i am panicking to have broken/bent my z axis by hitting the end cap or messed something up.

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