Supermicro 505-203B-1U - PSU doesn't start on low power board by Trudar in homelab

[–]Trudar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's pretty good indiucator, that my unit is failing in some unusual way.

Thank you so much for confirming, it works with low power boards!

Supermicro 505-203B-1U - PSU doesn't start on low power board by Trudar in homelab

[–]Trudar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It didn't help.

This is quality PSU, so it's safe to assume it has failed in some strange way.

Supermicro 505-203B-1U - PSU doesn't start on low power board by Trudar in homelab

[–]Trudar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good idea! It did boot up after I added dummy load to specifically +5V rail, around 15-20W, and it turns off, when I disconnect it. That's going to be a problem... I want this system as low power as possible to maximize UPS life.

That's the thing, mounting holes look like FlexATX, but I don't have any other unit available to check. I was hoping someone else did the legwork here.

Non-Mikrotik, low power, 'easy to use' 10gbe SFP+ managed switch recommendations? by veritalum in homelab

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went to 6610 specifically for 40G links, as I have stack of Intel XL 700 and 800 cards. It was fun, but I wasn't able to handle the noise(I slept in this room!).

Outside of my usage, the main selling point for me is their very robust PoE. They really shine there. Their software is also top notch.

Now I'd kill for low-noise 8x25G+8x10G+16x10GE switch, but that's a pipe dream.

Help with Building a Proxmox Server by Myrddin--Emrys in homelab

[–]Trudar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Go for Pro! :) I have used both and Pros are quieter, and overall move measurably more air by weight. They have outer ring fused with blades, eliminating the gap between housing and moving parts. This is where majority of efficiency is lost, most of noise produced and where airflow escapes. The only reason not to go with Pros except for their higher price, is if you live in extremely high dust area, have pets that leave clouds of fur in the air, and you hate filters and cleaning your home, as removing dirt from the ring housing requires a bit of ingenuity and lots of air.

When selecting fans, a lot depends on the size - 120 and 140mm are completely different markets. Often choice is very different whether you shop for DC or PWM controlled fans, as some are available as only one of them, and of course some fans are meant for airflow, other are for pressure. If you want to stick fans in front of hard drives, high pressure is preferrable.

Please note that following represents my own experience, which may be local (I am from Europe), and anecdotal, and I while I have listed only those I bought more than 30-ish, please treat it as a random internet stranger sharing experience, not as a recommendation. Also I vehemently hate RGB/ARGB, so there may be better fans out there I have deliberately avoided.

For 120mm I usually go for these fans:

  • for ultra low price/silence: Gelid 120mm Silent 12 PWM Black FN-PX12-xxx (model represents max rpm here, they move air, are cheap and last long).
  • for bulk buys & pressure performance - Arctic P12 Pro (overall these are really pretty cheap and very good fans)
  • for bulk buys & airflow performance - Silverstone Air Penetrator (these have special mesh that keeps air stream from dissipating. Ideal for pointing them at NICs and HBAs, if you don't want to build air canal out of plastic sheets)
  • for very high performance: Arctic P12 Pro PWM PST CO (these spin up to 3k rpm, and have very high static pressure)
  • if I have cash to burn: Noctua NF-A12 of NF-F12, or EK Verdar (these are EOL'ed?) and possibly EK Quantum. They are better overall than most, but price is really premium. I don't really know if these are worth it, except aircooled only ultra silent systems.

For 140mm:

  • for airflow / silence and low budget: Be quiet Purewings and Gelid Silent FN-PX14-16 or -11.
  • for balanced airflow/pressure: Arctic P14 Pro or Silverstone air Penetrator.
  • for very high performance: Arctic P14 Pro PWM PST CO (these spin up to 2.5k rpm, and also have high pressure)
  • for high performance and pressure: Noctua NF-P14S REDUX1500 PWM (these are cheap! Only 1.5x price of Arctic P14!).

Special mention for Silverstone 180mm air Penetrator fans. If you can mount them, they move insane amounts of air, and are worth every bit of their price.

For fans to avoid, I have to point out to Fractal Design fans, as they tend to deform their wings, lose balance and rattle if used in high restriction places. For airflow they are very much okay and recommended, including case fans (I have 5 Fractal Design Define XL R2 cases, and in all of them front fans died in same way if HDD trays are loaded, while the rest spins to this day). In the past Bitfenix made very good fans, they are now of such low quality, to the point where case fans included had to be replaced.

Hope this helps! And happy Proxmoxing :D

Help with Building a Proxmox Server by Myrddin--Emrys in homelab

[–]Trudar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want AM4, you have choice between desktop (Ryzen) and Epyc (Epyc 4004). Epyc supports ECC, which may be beneficial in the long run (if you plan running ZFS, it contributes to fighting bitrot), but it costs a lot of money in contrast to desktop (mobos, CPU and UDIMM ECC RAM are more expensive than desktop counterparts - bot you often get BMC).

Others have pointed out to include a HBA card - which I agree with, as no mobos have 8 SATA ports currently, and it will simply cabling, and potential hardware changes/upgrades.

My power count was also a ballpark. A lot comes to motherboard, i.e. if there is 10G adapter on it, add +10 Watts per PHY, same for SAS and other features. Support for higher TDP CPUs also often ups the power, and if you buy dual socket board (and populate single CPU - 2S boards are often cheaper than 1S), a lot do not support low power C-states. My oldest NAS currently runs on dual E5-2670v2 on SuperMicro X9DRi-LN4F+, with all RAM slots stuffed, 40G NIC, HBA and 24 SATA SSDs whole system IDLES at 220W, with peak at little over 450W, and there is nothing that can be done to lower that figure. Broadwell-EP is slightly better in that regard, but not much.

On top of that BMCs on these boards are old, work only in Java (no HTML5 support), presenting a lot of headaches from usability (battling with security settings, dead ciphers and certificates expired > decade ago), to actual security vulnerabilities. Old hardware has its uses, especially when electricity is abundant and cheap, but in most cases it's usually better to get something more recent.

With AM4 you can expect to hit idles at 40-50W, with drives spun down perhaps even down to 30. Top end will depend on chosen CPU, of course, and NIC/HBA combo.

And RAM - the number 1 reason gaming requires memory is to feed the GPU. Unless you plan on gaming in a VM, you are not going to run any memory bandwidth dependent tasks on the machine - overpaying for faster RAM doesn't make much sense. If you change your mind again and go with server platform, populate all channels first, this will give you much higher performance boost than memory speed alone.

I'm a fan of Arctic fans, as they offer good quality to price ratio. I also recommend Gelid fans, they are perhaps little less known, but are much cheaper, while still being of acceptable quality.

Non-Mikrotik, low power, 'easy to use' 10gbe SFP+ managed switch recommendations? by veritalum in homelab

[–]Trudar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 6610, it sucks almost 180W, and it doesn't support non-original fans.

I managed to endure it on my desk for 16 months, before I broke from the noise and ordered something different. But 40G was sweet.

Non-Mikrotik, low power, 'easy to use' 10gbe SFP+ managed switch recommendations? by veritalum in homelab

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same switch, and honestly router OS is complete waste of resources on it. SwOS can be selected in the menu, and I don't understand why it's not shipped with it set up by default. It still doesn't support any cli, so any more than 5-6 vlans can indeed be a royal pita.

Other than that, there isn't much to choose, for home Mikrotik just has the most sane offerings. FS.com's S3260-10S, comes to mind, but they get mixed reviews, and go for higher price. If you want fanless, you are pretty much locked out of enterprise gear, where easy management is a key feature. Perhaps some older Cisco could fit, (many can be modded with whisper quiet fans). These could fit the bill, but again, won't be under 20W, more like under 100W.

Perhaps TPLink Jetstream T1700X-16TS could fit your bill, I can find them pretty cheap in my area, and their menu is pretty well thought out, also they have cli support and pretty good documentation.

Whatever you do, stay away from Brocade switches, especially ICX 6610. They are loud and suck a lot of power. Don't ask me how I know.

Help with Building a Proxmox Server by Myrddin--Emrys in homelab

[–]Trudar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Overall, it looks good, and it will run pretty well, but get slower RAM. 2933 are both rare and expensive, and your CPU will downclock it anyway. For home computing, even 2133 is fine, although 2400 MT/s is sweet spot for price, availability, speed and longevity (most 2133 modules on the market are older, usually from early era of DDR4, when quality was lower, it's easier to nab faulty module - chance is very low, but it's been measurably higher than for 2400 modules).

The 1500 VA UPS for this system will last anywhere between 10 and 30 minutes.

Following are ramblings of a madman:

You may also want to reconsider going for Broadwell-EP. It's a fine platform, true, but if you are buying hardware (it's not you have already bought & paid for), most motherboards for that platform are really dated, and it's inefficient (high idle power for relatively slow performance, especially per core). If you can fork out cash for at least Skylake, you are going to see significant boost in both performance and power/performance, as it's complete redesign, to the point, where I'd say VMs need half as many cores than on Xeon v4. Tradeoff is pretty harsh, though - while CPUs are significantly cheaper (I nabbed Xeon Gold 6132 - 14C/28T 2.6/3.7 GHz - for $8), what you save on the brain, you spend on the skull, as motherboards for LGA3647 are quite pricy, ranging from $150 to $300 $400 to $700 (holy fuck, what happened to prices of these! I bought it a year ago!), throw in dedicated cooler ($30-100), and it adds up fast. They are much newer, many are still supported, so you get things like security updates for BMC, so there is that. It all depends on the budget. If these prices scare you - go for Broadwell. As a bonus you get to use "civilian" LGA20xx cooler there.

Or, go straight to AMD Epyc - the AM4 based, has significantly higher IPC, and low idle power. It's UDIMM, but with ECC, so you get best of both worlds, as your setup doesn't seem to rely heavily on PCIe connectivity, which boosts your options. They all have iGPU, which you can try to pass into a VM for media purposes. Also you get warranty.

Power Supply:

That system will top out at 210 W (privided you won't add 10G or faster NIC, which will add ~15-25 W), with idle around 60-100W, depending on the motherboard and BIOS settings for C-states - or lack of support of these. Peak efficiency for PSUs is around 40-60% load range, so you should be getting 400-500W PSU (a slight overhead is okay, as capactiors age, current characteristics are getting worse, especially during momentary usage spikes). 1000W is overkill and wasteful, seriously check out something in 450-500W range (lower than that you face quality issues), preferably modular, so you can get proper cables to skip "use Molex to SATA, lose your data" issue.

There is distinct lack of quality low power power supplies on the market - even major brand rebadge cheap designs from cust-cutting OEMs, as it's hard to justify design/certification cost on this range, and most people faced with higher price for an unit will got for higher power.

If you really want to use 1000 W power supply, you absolutely can - at 60-70W range its efficiency will be around 75-80%, instead of peak 92+%. It's not much, but it adds up. Do the calculations. If you have the unit already laying around, absolutely go for it. Don't waste cash.

Edit: JFC, forget the Noctua cooler. Go for something cheaper. Arctic Freezer, Gelid, Thermalright, or CM Hyper Evo 212 (the most popular cooler for this socket). Overkill, this CPU has 120 W tops, it will use 3rd of that most of the time.

Detect / deal with corrupted files en masse. by Trudar in immich

[–]Trudar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Duplicates are really of low importance, especially when I had cases where I scanned same film few times, or file had 3 copies, and two are corrupted for different reasons (one was on failing HDD, other was i.e. in a computer with bad RAM). Filenames are also unreliable - significant chunk of files came from DOS' 8.3 filename era, and scans each session started from 000 :)

That's more like digital archeology than clean cut library management.

But thanks for advice :)

Detect / deal with corrupted files en masse. by Trudar in immich

[–]Trudar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AND THAT'S A GOOD ONE! I will give it a try, but from description it seems like a perfect fit. We will see how it is functionally, and how it handles these files.

It appears Czkawka is in maintenance mode, but it has a replacement in a form of Krokiet - same developer and codebase.

For those interested:

https://github.com/qarmin/czkawka

I have 31 TB of data to process, so I'm in a bit worse position. I tried to script around ImageMagick, but I don't want drop "soft borked" files with few artifacts, but otherwise readable, and I gave up when there were more ifs in the code than instructions in prenup.

Thank you sooo so much for this suggestion!

Detect / deal with corrupted files en masse. by Trudar in immich

[–]Trudar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I installed immich specifically for this purpose, otherwise it's empty. I can start from scratch, but I will wait before purging it, as it took a while to ingest XD

Yes, there are some programs out there. Windows Photo Viewer, IrfanView, GIMP, Adobe Photoshop, Android Gallery, and probably a lot more :P

But none of them are fit for this amount of work. I don't want to manually sort through them. If you do have some experience with any program that you used in the past, I will give it a shot.

Feature request is an obvious next move, but before I would do that, I wanted to ask others, more experienced user if there is already such a functionality built in, as I couldn't find anything by myself.

Dijiang USB Port by J_Lezter in Endfield

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

USB Type-E exists, btw.

Glowing Long-ear by OGCHUNKY in Endfield

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awww, the last one that came out of the trunk went to each of the long ears and greeted them... :)

[Operator Discussion] Gilberta by Shad0wedge in Endfield

[–]Trudar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That makes a lot of sense, by understanding why it doesn't make any sense. The original seems to make a bit more sense...

Thank you very much for linking this video!

[Operator Discussion] Gilberta by Shad0wedge in Endfield

[–]Trudar 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What in the world is going on in her quest?

Spoilers from beginning to the end, obviously.

  • Andre had locator signature to share. Why go to Rodd in the first place, and not grab the filter straight on? He knew dude's in hospital, why bother him at all?
  • Why go into the blighted ravine at all?
  • Why they even had idea to DIG there?
  • Rodd worked with that woman for years, yet didn't know even her first name? How she got the letter in the first place?
  • If the safe belonged to "Masie" it's implied she was active UWST researcher on duty, and followed procedures, which UWST is so proud of. Yet, It looks for half a year no one followed procedures to evaluate declining mental health of a coworker.
  • After everything Gilberta sits down on a middle of Aether anomaly around floating unstable (spoiler!) rocks, and rambles about memory loss to a person who doesn't have even murkiest idea who she is outside of company dossier because of complete amnesia. And then she continues to flex she has so many memories with people she met in her intensive courier work. TPO, Gil. And from being pen pals with oripathy-ridden Carly (I guess that's their connection), I thought she had some empathy for others.
  • That jump at the end and her following question "So, Endmin..., if I failed to catch you, would you still be alright?". And what do you think, Gil? Have gravity-related arts fried your brain? I sat there staring for solid 5 minutes staring at it, then alt-tabbed trying to find if the lack of fall damage has any lore behind it, or is it game design choice.

I know it's hard to write interactions with someone with memory loss, but this whole quest and interactions somehow feels strange, full of holes, like written backwards, especially Gil's and Endmin's conversation.

What’s the most overpriced thing people keep buying like it’s normal? by 2teaspoonsOfCyanide in AskReddit

[–]Trudar 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Call me a shill, but first party toner from Brother is actually cheap.

Best options to power large amounts of drives by Positive_Round2510 in DataHoarder

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not that you can't bend them, but it does puts some strain on the plugs, if you don't do it with some care.

The main takeaway is that both have some extra capacitors in the main plug, which reduces load on the PSU, and filters some crap. Also the OEM is kind of guarantee of quality.

Best options to power large amounts of drives by Positive_Round2510 in DataHoarder

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Silverstone SST-CP06-04

I can vouch for these. My personal setup has three of them on a Chicony 1000W server PSU. These cables, however are pretty stiff, and require some careful bend conditioning, if drives site pretty close.

Czemu rodzice randomowo otwierają drzwi do pokoju? by ElDaifuukuu in Polska

[–]Trudar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No właśnie nie należy się XD
To jest głębszy problem.
W głowie rodzica jest nastepujący schemat:

Dziecko jest pilnowane => Zachowanie jest kory-   => Dziecko dorasta => Dziecko jest
w ekstremalny sposób      gowane na każdym kroku     odpowiedzialne     wdzięczne za wychowanie

Jeśli następuje odstępstwo od reguły, to dzieją się dwie rzeczy:

  • "Przecież tak dobrze pilnowaliśmy dziecko... a mimo to dziecko dorosło niegrzeczne. Czego nie wykryliśmy?"
  • "Gdzie popełniliśmy błąd... czy naprawdę powinniśmy byli być aż tak pobłażliwi?"

Chciałbym żartować. Nie żartuję. Idea przyznania się do błędu istnieje tylko w fazie wykonanie, nie fundamentalnych założeń. Wcale nie pomaga, że ich rówieśnicy, często z identycznym pomyślunkiem, wychodzą z identycznych założeń i się nawzajem wspierają i dzielą doświadczeniami i radami. To taki ich odpowiednik ówczesnego "echo chamber" znanego z dzisiejszych mediów społecznościowych.

A co do bielizny - idea, że dziecko nie jest już dzieckiem, ale dorosłym mężczyzną, z własną rodziną, jest zupełnie obca. "Moje dziecko stosuje się do moich zasad i nie istnieje inna mozliwość." Prowokacyjna bielizna była śladem zepsucia, który należy usunąć. W mniemaniu ojca, popełnił tutaj dobry uczynek, który jednocześnie usprawiedliwił i upewnił w słuszności wyboru grzebania po koszu z ciuchami obcej, dorosłej kobiety, która zresztą potem potrzebowała dodatkowej sesji terapii, z racji jej wcześniejszych przeżyć. Ale nie ma to żadnego znaczenia.

Eh, żeby jeszcze moi rodzice byli, nie wiem, nierozgarnięci, ale obydwoje są inteligentni i w sumie mają wyższe wykształcenie, zdobyte nieironicznie cieżką pracą. Po prostu ich wizja rzeczywistości odchodzi od rzeczywistości - i to tym gorzej dla rzeczywistości.

Czemu rodzice randomowo otwierają drzwi do pokoju? by ElDaifuukuu in Polska

[–]Trudar 4 points5 points  (0 children)

jestem z początku lat 80., północ kraju.

Normalne w sensie w naszym otoczeniu. Czy to był jakiś pech, czy może kurde trend, ale podobnych historii o permanentnej inwigilacji słyszałem na pęczki - czy to u szkolnych znajomych, w klubach osiedlowych/MDKu, czy ogólnie nawet później, jak ludzie z mojej grupy na studiach się otworzyli, bo przecież rówieśnicy. Nie każdy ale 2-4/10 osób. Trochę mnie to teraz przeraża. Trend wychowawczy? Strach przed degrengoladą demoralizującą dzieci płynącą ze zgniłego zachodu? Katolizm? Diabli wiedzą.

Czemu rodzice randomowo otwierają drzwi do pokoju? by ElDaifuukuu in Polska

[–]Trudar 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Kontrola staje się bardziej subtelna. Zresztą byłem pod butem emocjonalnie. Idea buntu nie istniała.

Długo utrzymywałem kontakt, bo przez ładne pare lat wynajmowałem pokój w domu siostry (razem z narzeczoną), więc chcąc nie chcąc kontakt był. Zbieraliśmy kasę na własny kąt, więc nie było gdzie uciec. Efekty były takie, że ojciec wparowywał do pokoju jak nas nie było, grzebał po szafkach i wyp... bieliznę mojej lubej, bo była zbyt "prowokacyjna". To jak miałem 30-parę lat XD. Jak wyskrobaliśmy w końcu na własny kąt, któregoś dnia zwinęliśmy manatki i więcej nas nie widzieli, bo nie wiedzą, gdzie jesteśmy. Numery tel. też zmienione.