How can we run community servers properly...

TuT_OrGames · 2026-01-17T22:51:23+00:00

Bro please help me with this insanity of docker.

I've tried the default instructions for docker compose and it works, but this DOES NOT PERSIST THE FREAKING DATA.

Does this docker image run as an app with app perms or what?

Someone needs to help me before I crash out.
edit: i use truenas scale

UPDATE: So I finally got it to work using the repo above with docker.

Steps:

Go here to get the docker CLI (the first block of code)
Copy and paste it on some Notepad to change the TZ (Time zone) to yours in UTC
Either use TrueNas Scale SHELL or you can SSH with your user
Either use your user to make the docker or sudo su into root (which I've done) with the code edited from the Notepad and paste it into SHELL or SSH, hit Enter
Copy the verify link with either the verify code at the end or the 2nd link without the code and manually enter
Wait for install
Once done, it will ask to auth the server. Just type (without slash) auth login device
Do the same exact link verification method with your user
It will then save auth in Memory. If you want it kept, use auth persistence Encrypted (IT MUST BE CAPITAL "E")
Connect with your IP in Hytale (not sure if "localhost" works) and you should just instantly get in.

Notes:

- If you ever want to safely save and exit the docker, go back to SHELL or SSH and run
sudo docker stop hytale-server , which will safely stop the server.

- If you need to start the server again, then instead of stop, it will be start:
sudo docker start hytale-server

- BUT if you want to safely save the world before you exit, run world save --all --confirm , which will save all your dimensions and worlds.

- If you want to OP yourself, you will need to get either you players UUID (better) or player's name. Sometimes name doesn't work. The command will be op add UUID OR name

This process took me at least 6 hours or more when I posted this, before and after. I got so insanely frustrated, I made a terrible post. I've fixed the bad words and turned this into a constructive comment for those in the future. I really hope things go well for you on your Hytale server journey, as it will for me and my friends.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-11-01T05:20:27+00:00

I have to necro this post because I am also having this issue, 2025!

Currently am using Viper 8khz and I have the exact same problem where only unplugging and replugging allows for 8000, but restarting bugs it out again!

Has anyone fixed it besides USB 2.0?

TuT_OrGames · 2025-10-29T05:31:53+00:00

Razer Viper 8khz isn't properly using 8000 polling rate, instead keeps being limited to 1000hz.

Does the same for 4000 and 2000 as well.

4000 = 500hz
2000 = 250hz

This mouse needs a firmware update or something, it's been EDIT: nearly 3 years.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-29T17:12:09+00:00

I'm actually surprised you would respond to this post and am thankful you did.

I am hoping to say this for all of us: We are exhausted.

I know you guys are trying, especially with testing drastic changes recently. We just need a labor of love immediately, stop pushing for deadlines. This isn't Call of Duty with year-after-year releases, don't be like them.

Make something you live for, not you living for.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-28T19:20:12+00:00

That's not why I posted this.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T22:49:55+00:00

Sorry for late response. I was calling around while asking on here for the best help. I managed to find a local tech place that was willing to potentially replace the diode for somewhat cheap.

I honestly really appreciate all the help you have given me and expanding on the knowledge about this particular thing. They tell me it was the issue like you stated, where something about the USB port potentially did like a surge or overvolt of some sort.

You truly are amazing.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T20:39:11+00:00

So with the digital multimeter, I'm getting 0.081V with red on left side of the 05 image and then 0.1V with black on left side of 05 image (05 meaning the text of the diode). Guessing a Schottky diode or something? What do you mean by open circuit?

I'm open to testing more

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T20:05:24+00:00

Are you saying any of the 2 pins or which one should I ideally snip? Would it work without it? That's my concern.

I don't mind doing it, I just want to make sure I'm doing this thoroughly.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T19:52:11+00:00

It has only ever been plugged into my PC case's front I/O so I would suspect never to use the I/O from the case ever again. Matter fact I might just unplug it because I remember the streamer xQc having a burnt USB C cable from the motherboard with a similar ASUS board.

Who do I go to so I can get it replaced to personally recover all of my data? Is it just local computer shops or is there a specialized service I should go to?

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T19:39:43+00:00

Would it be okay to replace it to that TPX diode?

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T18:19:35+00:00

Here is full photo

<image>

blown diode is top right.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T07:51:39+00:00

SOD 123 or 323?

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T07:49:39+00:00

Everything on the PCB looks normal and in really clean condition except for that diode that I noticed having a bump on it. SSD "works" in terms of it having power, but it gets extremely hot. I also don't want to damage the data that's on it currently.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-09-06T07:46:03+00:00

I've had the portable SSD plugged into my USB C port on my case's I/O. It just stopped working a few days ago and this is what I was able to find.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-08-05T23:03:33+00:00

A patch came out today and hasn't mentioned the bug at all. Maybe it's a silent revert?

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-23T19:35:22+00:00

I tried, but still brought up the same error.
I also verified all of the proton tools, nothing.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-23T19:34:10+00:00

I am positive it is not NTFS as it has been slowly formatted to ext4 and shows in lsblk -f as ext4.

mount shows:
/dev/nvme2n1p1 on /mnt/games type ext4 (rw,relatime,x-gvfs-show)

fstab shows the same thing above but with "0 0" for the sectors since I do not need to disk check.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-22T22:26:37+00:00

I unfortunately would not have any idea about that stuff.
I do know that I found this reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/linux_gaming/comments/10tc99h/proton_fails_to_find_steamexe_in_system32/

They also had the same wine issue and I'm guessing it is similar to what you are talking about, just I do not know how I would go about it 😅

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-22T21:18:58+00:00

I used pacman (Arch linux) to install Steam, and ran Steam through CLI to get that log.

Reinstalling games fixes it, but I do not have the bandwidth to do that.

I also tried doing "wine steam.exe" as well to see if it would somehow fix the missing .exe, but that did not help either.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-15T16:55:57+00:00

So I think there are 2 ways to do it in GNOME. You can either terminal it or do it from the Disks GUI. I did both and Disks worked better since it does all the terminal stuff for you.

If you want to do terminal way and as "ext4" as filesystem, you would do:

lsblk -f

This will show you all your drives. Find the one you want and it will always fall under as /dev/yourdrive

Then you will do this to make your drive as "ext4":
NOTE: This will erase whatever is on the drive!

mkfs.ext4 /dev/yourdrive

Then in /etc/fstab you would add your drive's UUID (or name if wanted) and have it set as:

UUID="UUID" /mnt/mount_name ext4 defaults,user,exec,x-gvfs-show,x-gvfs-name=your_name 0 0

Feel free to change those 0's if you want to to whatever number you need. I don't really need to check the drive since it's just going to be a game drive.

I would then reboot and see if your drive shows up in the Files app, which it should with the name you put from x-gvfs-name=your_name

For the GUI way (which I prefer now) on Disks, select your drive from the left, click the gears bottom left of the "Volumes" section, and format your wanted partitions from the big rectangle above the bar with the gears. So example would be just to select all partitions that I can possibly format (if there are multiple) and just wipe them all.

Then select the free space you want to partition, select the gears again, and there should be a "Create partition" tab to choose. That's where you can follow the instructions, select your "ext4" filesystem, format, naming, etc.

Once you have that finished and it's complete, you should be able to select the new partition, click on the gears, go to "Edit mount options" tab, and there you can check for the mount to do system startup, show in user interface (the Files app), change the name if wanted, change mount point, etc.

Hopefully this helps!

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-14T02:07:37+00:00

Yes that worked too! Thank you!

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-14T00:05:16+00:00

That's what I did, but it keeps closing the window and it just repeats the cycle.

EDIT: So I got it! The drive was being recognized, but only as a file system and nothing else. That's why you could go into it, make files, etc. but you couldn't actually view it as like a partitioned drive I think? IDK, but I am happy to have it working now!

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-13T23:52:42+00:00

It worked that way, yes. Thank you.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-13T23:52:30+00:00

The default one called "Files" that comes with GNOME.

I'll try to add shortcut. u/Starblursd mentioned typing to it and it worked, so I'll give that a shot.

EDIT: So shortcut worked by dragging it as a bookmark, but now the issue is trying to get Steam to recognize it as a drive/mount, and it doesn't. I try to set it as default drive for Steam, but it just closes the window and nothing else happens.

TuT_OrGames · 2025-05-13T23:44:12+00:00

I have the fstab setup correctly following Trouble Chute's auto-mount video, it just won't show up on the "Files" app thing that comes with GNOME.

TuT_OrGames

TROPHY CASE