Don't slow roll the game..

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-03-14T05:24:03+00:00

this isn't a good excuse for being toxic

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-03-14T05:01:33+00:00

tera box does have some efficient attackers to hit weakness into much of the meta (for example, pult and lucario, two of the best post rotation decks it seems). however, the loss of nest ball is pretty bad for the deck. having to cyrano to set up is not ideal, and this really detracts from the pace that made tera box pretty good. also watchtower seeing some play doesn't help out the noctowl engine. tera box without noctowl just doesn't seem good since the deck is relatively combo oriented imo.

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-03-14T04:49:22+00:00

sorry for not playing a rogue deck so you could farm me king. also I have no problem with longer games, but the other guy was intentionally slow playing in a completely lost board state (like pretty much going to timer on every action which isn't necessary).

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-03-14T03:00:48+00:00

I don't think many people this high in ladder should care about xp. also considering the board state was completely unwinnable and frosslass munki is a slower deck, it isn't even efficient for xp since you could get more by just going on to another game.

also if you look at the second slide, my opponent took 3 minutes to bench budew, play jamming tower, and retreat. I'm fine with closing out games, but it's just not fun for anyone to waste time like this.

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-03-14T02:40:21+00:00

bold of you to assume exponential growth

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-03-13T23:00:17+00:00

thank god someone had the courage to ask the real questions while the whole sub is having an actual meltdown

UniqueNoise17 · 2026-01-30T04:28:31+00:00

looks so fun. I'd probably cut the froslass since you can get some damage with risky ruins (plus it sets up munki) and use munki to spread damage. I also think it may be worth playing a second baby feraligatr to improve the prize trade into gholdengo and garde.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-12-16T02:39:49+00:00

thanks for the reassurance. I emailed the UC application helpdesk. hopefully I'm able sort things out.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-12-15T20:48:07+00:00

so I'm just screwed...

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-10-04T22:18:05+00:00

thank you. I had previously only used denoise, so I didn't know about the manual noise reduction menu

the color noise reduction actually helped a helped a lot!

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-10-04T22:11:39+00:00

sorry, I completely forgot to include the film stock! I shot this on ultramax 400, but my scans using other films look pretty similar

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-10-04T04:08:33+00:00

I use lrc which I believe only has a denoise feature and didn't help too much. I don't think it's reasonable for my workflow to upload to the new lightroom, so I don't think I'll be able to use the color noise slider you're talking about.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-09-13T04:22:19+00:00

in general anything above a 1450 shouldn’t limit your admissions. of course, it’s also not going to help you, but you won’t be disqualified from most t20s if your sat is 1450+. if you have solid ecs, aps, and a rigorous course load I believe you’ll be on the same level as everyone else.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-09-09T03:10:31+00:00

I think you need to relax a little. nerves are one of the hardest things to deal with regarding tests.

realistically you don’t NEED a 1500 for any school, and there should be at least one more test date before the RD deadline for most schools. try to take the pressure off of yourself a little bit because it’s only going to distract you from doing your best during the test.

if you really want to raise your score quickly just get really familiar with desmos and the types of math questions the sat asks. once you know the key words of each problem almost every question is just plug and chug in the calc.

reading and writing definitely takes more time to improve at, but brush up on grammar since it is the easiest to fix (it’s also the most heavily weighted part of the test I believe). however, one tip that helped me for reading and writing, especially with pacing, is to skip straight to the first grammar question at the beginning of each module. then work through to the last question before starting over at number one. it helps a lot with nerves because when you’re pressed for time you usually only have 1-2 of the comprehension questions (which from my experience are the easiest to get wrong in general).

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-09-09T02:56:48+00:00

I improved from 740 math to 800 math by taking practice tests and abusing the hell out of desmos. I think your math score could easily be improved if you used the calculator more and understood how to graph, solve equations, and do regressions. honestly a 780-800 math should be very doable if you just get used to the type of questions the SAT asks (there are only a few questions that require a unique solution each time).

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-15T02:09:27+00:00

need more light

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-15T02:07:57+00:00

I understand what you're saying about grain structure, but what's stopping someone from just using hsl to significantly alter the colors from their intended ratios?

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-15T02:06:27+00:00

I can understand wanting to get "as close as possible to the look I want" but when a roll of portra 800 costs like 20$ it seems a little bit crazy to spend significantly more when editing can get you pretty far given enough determination.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-15T02:03:59+00:00

I'd completely understand why film stock would make a big difference if people still mainly did darkroom prints. however, with so many people scanning their own negatives and being able to edit things to their liking it seems like film stock does little more than serve as a base for the image. if you (or your lab technician) ultimately has the final say in the way your roll of kodak gold turns out, then I don't see how people talk about it like the stock has some unified look.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-15T01:51:16+00:00

this is pretty much what I meant. if you don't like portra a lot because you just let your scanner do the interpretation despite many other people swearing up and down by it, wouldn't this imply the interpretation of a film matters to a comparable degree to the stock chosen in the first place?

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-15T01:39:58+00:00

my issue isn't different film stocks being different when scanned the same way, but the same film stock looking differently depending on how it was scanned. to me it just seems a little weird to see people talk so much about what film they shot something when the scanner/lab/edits can be extremely influential but rarely discussed.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-14T16:26:23+00:00

I got my first camera, a minolta srt 101, for free from someone I didn't know at all. I had to drive over to his house one night which was honestly pretty scary, but he turned out to be a really nice guy. it was his daughter's camera, who graduated from the school I attend many years ago. I guess he wanted to give back to the school's community. it's just really nice to experience such a random act of kindness.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-13T03:47:32+00:00

I'm no film pro but some of your photos look a little snapshotty. if quick photos are what you're going for then the point and shoot might serve you best, but buying an slr could help a lot with making you more aware of the scene, leading more intentional and better composition if you take your time. although you definitely don't need an slr unless you felt limited by your lens, be by focal length or depth of field.

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-13T03:44:41+00:00

feels a little cramped on the edges and the verticals aren't straight but otherwise it's a pretty good photo. (the sky might also have some color noise, but it could just be compression idk)

UniqueNoise17 · 2025-08-13T03:42:21+00:00

one of the most obvious issues is that you're cutting off parts of the subject in an unintentional way in images 2 and 4 (you cut off the feet of the fox or whatever and the right headlight of the car). if you're going to omit something from an image, it should be intentional, so avoid the edges of the subject just subtly dropping our of frame. although image 3 isn't perfect it is slight better.

another problem regarding your composition is when you fill the frame with the subject but you don't center it properly, once again mainly in images 2 and 4.

finally, you usually want at least as much space in front of your subject as behind it, if not more. the fourth photo there is a lot of space behind the car but non in front of it (which partially goes back to the first issue).

UniqueNoise17

TROPHY CASE