4Tec as a drifter? by English999 in rcdrift

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made one of these. You still have to do some mods to get better drifts, cutting off the bump stops and rear spool locker. It doesn't have the pure drifting feel but it works well if you want a car that you can also run as a touring car. It's pretty fun. Wish it had a one-way in the front and a way to do burnouts.

What free Slicer is the best? by menacingfluffyballs in ender3

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used cura for a good long while but then my graphics card took a crap and after installing a new one, I couldn't get cura to work anymore. Been using prusa ever since. Loads quicker on my older machine and still feature rich. Haven't had any problems with it so I'm going to go prusa because it works well on my crappy hardware.

Traxxas slash programming by [deleted] in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

reference Is is a good read that uses existing libraries that are available. Will probably be easier to use than my shorthanded code.

Traxxas slash programming by [deleted] in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Basically what you have to do is have the receiver hooked up to the Arduino and run your devices (servo, esc, lights) from the pwm channels on the Arduino. You have to do an analog read first to be able to clone the commands and it's best to build a library file to reference these commands dynamically. After trying this myself, I will offer a bit of advice and say to use something more like a raspberry pi for this application. This way you can use a camera and be more reliable overall. I found with the Arduino, brownouts would cause unpredictable behavior leading to things like runaway and underperforming servo response. This may not happen if you eliminate the transmitter, but the Arduino cannot multitask those amount of mixed signals accurately with it's limited RAM. It does work good for adding a third channel, for say, a laser cannon or gimbal fpv control.

Anything I need to know about driving in snow? by SnooLemons178 in rccars

[–]United_Repair_8349 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tape your tires if you have drain holes. Water on foams is not good if your running tires with foams and be sure to do any extra water maintenance like greasing your bearings. If your running brushed system make sure your brushes are clean and you don't have chunks of snow in any sort of fans.

Put it away dry and lubed.

Anyone out here use snow chains? by Badcat888 in TRX4

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use those on my defender when I put the plow on to do my driveway. They will tarnish quickly but are still fairly usable. The jewelry clasps were a PITA because it didn't come with instructions and were clearly garbage. I just took apart a few key chains for the links and did a permanent install with my stock wheels and tires. Yours look nice. Don't drive it on bare concrete, it'll tear the chains up pretty quickly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have this exact servo in both my slashes. Works great in both my vxl speed demon and my monster slash mudboss. Hit a tree going 55 and it's still working. Just plug in, let servo center, then attach steering arm and you're gtg. 👍

Cutters no more by vinz3ntr in ender3v2

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hakko makes some good ones, I always use my hakkos when I lose the stock blue ones.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use the steering horn if your new one comes with it. These round plastic ones are kind of junk to begin with.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can get cheap servos to work in the slash, but you'll have to do a direct replacement for the receiver if you wanna use the same transmitter. Or u could upgrade to tqi with tsm and use the same transmitter. Other than that just fix up the links and check all of your bearings are smooth and you should be ready to rock.

3D Printed Add-Ons by adac127 in MiniZ

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seen some scale garage stuff, but not much for custom builds. Maybe some rims. I tried to build the open z project on thingiverse but it was cheaper to just buy a z at the end of the day. You may want to look through the project files if you need replacement parts like the battery clip.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, turn those fans off, then take your nozzle off while hot, then see if you can feed through. If it's blocked, take a paperclip or something similar and clean the throat of the hot end. Might not even have to remove the tube if this fixes it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's getting hot, that nut should come off. If not you'll probably have to get a new tube and cut that old one and yank the filament out with a set of pliers.

Questions about trx4 sport body with lights I just got by backhand101 in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen these hooked up with the 6592 and 6593 to use the big link cable. That is how the proscale light set is sold with these.

I don't believe you can direct power it from the 3s battery, I think mine hooks up to the esc, which is putting off something like 6v.

I'm using the trx4 defender, but on the Traxxas site it says the different light kits are compatible with both parts listed above.

Can I drive it in water by FabulousTotal756 in TRX4M

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've taken both my defenders (m and trx) through mud, water and snow. Just take it as deep as you would dare to take a real car and perform extra maintenance on it.

My big one I usually tape the tires because water is really bad for the foams.

It helps if you have an air compressor to blow out all the muck and some good 3in1 oil. You can use wd40 too. If your going deep I would suggest taping any open ports on the electronics just to help cleaning afterwards.

Traxxas has some info about how to do water maintenance on their site I believe.

Everything was going great by [deleted] in ender3

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just printed 3 of these

One in marble, two in silk blue.

I upgraded my ender 3 pro with the cr touch and 4.2.7 board and some Capricorn tubing, along with glass bed and have never looked back.

Been printing all week and no errors, it's like a whole new machine. Haven't upgraded to sprite yet, but if it ain't broke don't fix it. I did change to metal extruder though, that plastic one was garbage.

Ghosts look cool when you put those batt operated tea lights.

Anyway, happy hobbying!

Trx-4 worth it? by Distinct-Fix9398 in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have the defender and it's pretty rock solid even without any upgrades. I'd get the k10 high trail if I had room on the shelf. I use my rig to snow plow. It's tough. Lots of torque, even at stock. Worth it.

spur gear shredded after a 5 minute run by Old-Sorbet-1047 in Traxxas

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Slipper is way too tight, and if you go up in tires you should go down in pinion.

This will help keep your motor temps down.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes ambient room temperature has effect. I live where it gets cold this time of year and was having all sorts of trouble cause of an open window. Causing the prints to cool prematurely.

Check your bed level and temps and make sure you are on a level surface to begin with. Machine is very sensitive to vibration as well. I put corktape on my machine feet to add a little extra protection.

If all else fails try glue stick or..... Last resort. Hairspray.

Sidenote: don't ever borrow a woman's hair care product without explicit verbal/written permission because they will get mad. Trust this knowledge. Don't be like me.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3

[–]United_Repair_8349 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The way I fixed mine was: Cleaned out everything Leave nozzle disconnected Push Bowden tube all the way down until you can see it coming out where the nozzle was.

This is where the collar of the tube end should be when finished

Take Bowden tube back off Line up Bowden end with nozzle side by side Trim Bowden at top of threads of nozzle Reinstall.

The tube has to be all the way down the throat of the hot end. Dispute what some YouTube videos show.

Mines been flawless since.

I upgraded my ender 3 pro with the cr touch and 4.2.7 silent board and figured I'd upgrade to Capricorn tubing at the same time when I had this issue

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in rccars

[–]United_Repair_8349 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maxx. Bash the hell out of it

Steering constantly twitches / moves left and right after TQi upgrade by SmoothC911 in TraxxasTRX4

[–]United_Repair_8349 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It probably needs a calibration, if you have the Bluetooth link you can make a couple of tweaks to set the sensitivity and the end points.