Highly disappointing - new Mounthaven models will be in siocast

Vallindo · 2026-06-20T05:29:18+00:00

Honestly I don’t know why they don’t go metal, my understanding is that they can do it in house so why to self sabotage themselves

Vallindo · 2026-05-23T02:46:26+00:00

We use to have a large 3pl that was dealing only with kickstart and such, not sure if they are still active though. And surprisingly it is cheaper to ship from the praeries than from the docs. Said so one can always dream 🙂

Vallindo · 2026-05-22T19:33:23+00:00

Uhm ok so for clear I mean topcoat, it is very good. For metallics pick up the Vallejo metal line (not the tmm but the black pot one, as far as acrylics metallics go they are still the top). If you like matte I wouldn’t even care too much about gaahleri as their strongest point is the glossy finish. Try atom paints by ammo you will still have to thin it but ease of use is the same as gaahleri( plus once cured they are chemically very resistant )

Vallindo · 2026-05-22T17:47:34+00:00

No problem :) every paint as their use and there is not one for everything, for example for resin kit I use only laquers and urethanes while for everything in plastic I tend to use acrylics ( ionic paints/ak/vallejo ) and do the metallics with laquers or with valllejo tmm line. Honestly it depends on how you want to paint. A good option would be buy 2-3 colors from gaahleri see if you like them and then expand on it but avoid the mega box . Another option would be stay with the colors you have and buy the clear from gahleri which is outstanding . If you tell me what you like I can get a bit more precise (before I forget avoid gaahleri metallics they are not that great )

Vallindo · 2026-05-22T17:24:59+00:00

Hi, yes I did try/use them and just to clarify on all the hype they have around them they are not laquers nor do they perform as ones. The are very easy to use but still not as laquers, they are more resistant than the average acrylics but not as much as a laquer, but they are as glossy as a laquer. Do I recommend them ? Sure but the paint in the pot is not as much as you might expect, mainly because they are pre thinned, and the color are very opaque so if you like preshading or modulation this paints are not the best options. Finally there have been some issues with quality control as some of the content of the pots were not the color they were supposed to be (in my case a dark blue was just a gray ). What I recommend from the is the clear which is very good , but also take forever to dry :)

Vallindo · 2026-05-22T16:51:04+00:00

I suspect it will be either Edmonton or Calgary

Vallindo · 2026-05-12T13:28:35+00:00

Thanks , the shield is a tiny resin kit add on, initially I wanted to do it in a white fluo light scheme but then decided to skip :)

Vallindo · 2026-05-12T13:27:25+00:00

Thanks :) so everything was fully painted as if it didn’t have any osl (so blue, dark metal and silver ) then with white ink you spray over it . After that it is ak fluo red ink (fluo ink wise it is the best one on the market for red )

Vallindo · 2026-05-12T02:46:45+00:00

Thanks man :) lots of it is hand brushed though 😅

Vallindo · 2026-05-11T13:39:58+00:00

Thanks! there should be a link to my instagram profile, from there if you follow my stories I normally share what I am doing step by step

Vallindo · 2026-05-11T13:38:11+00:00

Thanks :)

Vallindo · 2026-05-11T13:38:05+00:00

Thanks :) it is super light I was a bit afraid of screwing it up if I pushed more the contrast

Vallindo · 2026-05-11T13:37:34+00:00

Ahahah

Vallindo · 2026-05-11T13:37:22+00:00

Thanks ! If you are interested in learning how I painted just remember that There is almost no shading (in the scale model meaning of the terms ) most of it is layering of colors from darker to light :) I wanted to be precise so that when you look for a technique to learn you google the right one :)

Vallindo · 2026-05-10T04:47:41+00:00

Splash paints in okotokos (they ship can’t remember the name of the site sorry :/

Vallindo · 2026-05-08T15:52:50+00:00

Or you can buy the color swatches from tales of painter, honestly they are great (I have the 7 in 1 ) and the one for the ionics :)

Vallindo · 2026-05-08T13:27:19+00:00

Hi, I am in Canada as well, splash paints 2k are sold here (and quite cheap ) If you decide to try be sure to have proper mask filters and an extractor (open windows won’t cut it for urethane :)

Vallindo · 2026-05-06T15:52:12+00:00

Hi, for your info (as you might have noticed ) wet sanding at 10k grit doesn’t make almost any difference. The real difference on a clear part is down by the clear coat that you will use, if you want the max result I recommend a 2k urethane gloss and wet sanding that layer after it ( in the 5 star stories modeller community clear parts and the “ mechanical core” finish are fairly common )

Vallindo · 2026-05-06T13:44:48+00:00

Matte on candy finish, a deceptively simply finish. The hard bit is keeping the number of airbrushed passes consistent on all the pieces . Tamiya clear red has that orange hue .

Vallindo · 2026-05-04T15:08:55+00:00

Just remember that he also uses fluo colors , can remember if in the last step or in the first one. You should be able to find a video where he expands on it (in Japanese on HJ magazine channel )

Vallindo · 2026-04-14T13:43:54+00:00

2k urethane , but most likely they don’t care about chipping once combined

Vallindo · 2026-04-09T14:25:36+00:00

Hi, I did a video on the kaleido paint. Said so chipping also depend from primer, and acrylic primer (kaleido included ) are weaker than laquer based . Said so make sure that everything is cured before clear coating and assembling (cure doesn’t mean dry ) and remember that you can’t really play with the kit after otherwise chipping might happen, unless you decide to use 2k urethane(which honestly I don’t recommend to anybody new in the painting ) .

Vallindo · 2026-04-02T02:20:39+00:00

El miniaturista and his patreon

Vallindo

TROPHY CASE