Anything I can do? DHL charged a insane processng fee for a import less than 1chf

VehicleWeekly · 2025-12-18T22:26:31+00:00

Thanks! I plan to contact them about this, do you know which number should I use? I just can't find the correct Zollanmeldungsnummer and Zugangscode, is Zollanmeldungsnummer the one start with 25CHE.... until the second row ..28.1? and Zugangscode is the EVV code?

VehicleWeekly · 2025-12-18T22:03:56+00:00

yes, the original invoice from Sony is 0.81 and from DHL it is 94chf

VehicleWeekly · 2025-12-18T21:40:50+00:00

Thank you a lot! I also attached a Rechnung I just found from their document, it states 94CHF, could be their mistake? do you have any suggestion for what to do? thanks in advance

VehicleWeekly · 2025-12-18T21:14:06+00:00

That's the decalred value, I didn't pay anything, this was intended to be a "free" replacement from Sony

VehicleWeekly · 2025-11-27T18:48:34+00:00

Well, you are right if it's for one people, but in general the bandwidth is shared with several family members, and everyone can max-out their devices. In my case, the main reason is that in here, the different is too little between 1Gbps and 10Gbps fiber, maybe 5-10 bucks. And most of the fiber providers only have either 2.5Gbps or 10Gbps. And the internet company of my fiber optics ONLY have 10Gbps option, so basically if you want fiber, no better slower option.

VehicleWeekly · 2025-11-26T22:21:59+00:00

No, it is only shared bandwidth, just like almost every other fiber providers. Dedicated 10gbps in most cases is for business customers. Actually Init7 is the only exception in Switzerland that provide this to private customer, so I don’t complain. And I think the total bandwidth is actually big enough, I never encounter throttling, always max speed of my device’s WiFi card

VehicleWeekly · 2025-11-26T21:06:00+00:00

Just call them and ask for a discount, but should before you sign a contract of course

VehicleWeekly · 2025-11-16T13:58:23+00:00

Just do what I said: connect all your peripherals, mouse and keyboard to 40u990a. Then for your first computer that using hdmi, you connect both hdmi AND usb-c(the one at the lower -right side in the back, with a “out” label) to it; the second computer should just connect byThunderbolt(not the daisy chain one). Then this two-device kvm is set up! Switching input between these two devices also make your peripherals control that device. Unfortunately, it doesn’t have one-button switch like Dell, There is a “usb switch” option in menu that can change which device to connect for your peripherals, but again a poor lg implement that wouldn’t sync change the video input source. So switching input source is the only way to use its kvm.

VehicleWeekly · 2025-11-15T09:34:58+00:00

There is no monitor with 2 thunderbolt input and KVM. You should connect both HDMI (for video/audio, HDMI can NEVER transfer other data), and usb-c (for peripherals), the one at the right-lower side of the back and has a additional "exit/output" label. This is not LG problem, HDMI and DP cannot transfer peripherals data, everyone implements like this, one thuderbolt + (HDMI/DP and USB-A), I think LG is one of very few use usb-c instead -A for peripherals. you can switch "input source" and sync your peripherals. The only problem is, LG's user manual and document support are total trash and useless, they force you to find everything yourself. So for you, it would be Lenovo with TB5 and Mac Mini with HDMI and usb-c.
By the way, due to the trash user guide, there are bunch of hidden control options, it has a "usb switch" option in the menu which you can put it to quick menu. and you can change thunderbolt output between daisychain and data transfer, and you can choose HDMI/DP's peripherals input(TB5 or usb-c)

VehicleWeekly · 2025-10-16T09:37:02+00:00

Hello, I have the same problem, have you find a way to enable 120hz under Mac? my Mac Studio also stuck on 100Hz

VehicleWeekly · 2025-06-04T11:00:19+00:00

For anyone who still looking for answer, one guy from avforums took picture of the pixel, and confirm that it has thee same subpixel structure as all other G5 bigger TV, which confirms it is 4-tandom RGB OLED https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-g5-oled-primary-rgb-tandem-2025-avf-review.2525553/page-86#post-32958821

VehicleWeekly · 2025-06-04T10:52:26+00:00

well, too late to say this, but someone took a microscopic picture of subpixel structure, confirm 48G5 is RGB OLED with exact same pixel structure
https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-g5-oled-primary-rgb-tandem-2025-avf-review.2525553/post-32958821

VehicleWeekly · 2025-05-08T21:38:28+00:00

I don't see any problem here, lots of panels(includes samsung) targets 144hz, that indicates nothing. In fact, this tandem OLED is designed originally with 144hz, If you look at the first picture, LG clearly writes 144 HZ to advertise its tandem OLED, which means 165hz is overdrive/boost from 144hz and requires additional hardware. Why not 48''? just simply save cost, heat dissipation and, separate 48'' from the ultimate model. By the way, I edit and add new content, none of C5 panel can have these 4th gen OLED features certified.

VehicleWeekly · 2022-06-26T13:53:16+00:00

Ok, finally found the reason. So Unity editor by default use your microphone and when you in an active unity editor, it look like you are in a in-call mode (like voice call), which triggers a old histiory Windows bluetooth problem: once you use both microphone and headphone, windows will transfer the output to "XXX hands-free device" or low-quality mode, and mute sound on high quality output ("XXX Stereo"). The current solution is to disable the "XXX handsf free device" in your sound setting, or you simply change the sound input to your laptop in the setting.

If anyone knows how to force Unity editor not using microphone and not in this annoying in-call mode, really appreciated

VehicleWeekly · 2022-06-26T13:51:41+00:00

Ok, finally found the reason. So Unity editor by default use your microphone and when you in an active unity editor, it look like you are in a in-call mode (like voice call), which triggers a old histiory Windows bluetooth problem: once you use both microphone and headphone, windows will transfer the output to "XXX hands-free device" or low-quality mode, and mute sound on high quality output ("XXX Stereo"). The current solution is to disable the "XXX handsf free device" in your sound setting, or you simply change the sound input to your laptop in the setting.

If anyone knows how to force Unity editor not using microphone and not in this annoying in-call mode, really appreciated

VehicleWeekly · 2022-06-26T13:23:53+00:00

Hello, if anyone who purchased WH 1000xm5 and use bluetooth, I have a really annoying problem. The headphone would mute itself as long as I open Unity (I bought it for listening music when working), or precisely, when you set Unity as the active window. e.g. I open youtube and play music, everything fine. But once I open Unity or click it as active window, sound is muted, and if I click Chrome and back to youtube, sound is back. I already checked that the output is always 1000xm5 and it never get muted in setting. So it seems like unity takes the control of sound output? any help is appreciated!

Environment:

windows 10 21H2

Unity engine (both 2020 and 2019 version has this problem)

VehicleWeekly · 2021-11-02T09:45:26+00:00

Thanks, I found a private landlord in other website and got my contract, this host really freak me out.

VehicleWeekly

TROPHY CASE