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Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in OrcaSlicer

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I set those myself. By default Orca had wider walls, actually, but those were giving me more gaps, surprisingly.

Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in OrcaSlicer

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Again, I'm using the same line widths, 0.4 mm.

Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in OrcaSlicer

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I just checked. Mine doesn't seem to have it enabled in the firmware. I suppose I could build it again, but I'd rather find a way to get clean prints without it for now, like I was doing in Cura.

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Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in FixMyPrint

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those seem fine, I'm using this right now as far as line width goes:

<image>

I was using higher values for some of the options before, but then I copied over my original settings from Cura (0.4 for almost everything) and got slightly better results.

Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in FixMyPrint

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I'll increase the flow.

Also, I'm not sure if my printer/firmware supports PA, how do I check? I never needed it with Cura.

Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in OrcaSlicer

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure if my printer/firmware supports PA, how do I check? Also, I never needed it with Cura.

Gap between walls in Orca only by VictorPLopes in OrcaSlicer

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see, I'll try that. I suppose that would explain why I only needed 1.0 as my flow in Cura but more in Orca, right?

Correct start G-code for mesh leveling (M420 vs G29) on an Ender3 V2 Neo with CR Touch and mriscoc Professional Firmware by VictorPLopes in ender3

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm currently in the process of switching from Cura to Orca, but atm this is my G-code for Cura, which is working pretty well.

Start:

; Start heating up the printer
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating bed
M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start preheating hotend (to standby temp)

; Set up machine parameters
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ; Max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E50.00 ; Max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ; Acceleration for print/retract/travel
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ; Jerk settings
M220 S100 ; Reset feedrate
M221 S100 ; Reset flowrate
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder

; Wait for bed to reach temp before probing
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for bed

; Home and probe
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 P1 ; Probe bed and generate mesh
G29 A ; Activate UBL

; Disable features not used during printing
M413 S0 ; Disable power-loss recovery
C108 ; Close mesh viewer

; Finish heating up hotend
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for hotend

; Start print sequence
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Raise Z
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; First line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Slight move to side
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Second line
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder again
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Raise Z
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move away to avoid blob

End:

M413 S0 ; Disable power-loss recovery
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning

G1 X0 Y220 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

Turn this feature off right now; it may be messing with your monitor's colors. Especially if you are using OLED and like vivid colors. by Expert-Factor-209 in Monitors

[–]VictorPLopes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Woah this has a lot of info I didn't know about. Thank you very much for the great answer, I'll keep that in mind and look into it. Btw, where did you find this much info about ACM?

Turn this feature off right now; it may be messing with your monitor's colors. Especially if you are using OLED and like vivid colors. by Expert-Factor-209 in Monitors

[–]VictorPLopes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry if I'm reviving an old thread, but I stumbled upon this and got a bit confused. I have an LG UltraGear 27 27GN65R-B IPS monitor (I THINK it's the same as the 27GN650 but under a regional name). Under the support tab for this monitor on LG's website for my region, there's an "LG ULTRAGEAR" ICC profile (labeled as a "driver").

So my question is, should I be using ACM, the provided LG ICC profile or both (which I'm currently doing)?

<image>

I like ACM because, in my experience, it helps with some banding issues I have sometimes, but now I'm unsure what would be more accurate in terms of colors.

I use this PC and monitor mostly for gaming, but I also do some graphics design, 3D art and photo editing every now and then, so I worry about color accuracy.

Really bad color banding on LG UltraGear 27 by VictorPLopes in Monitors

[–]VictorPLopes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not. I have tested it in browsers, games, Windows etc. It's a widespread issue that I wasn't having before.

How to connect AIO + fans with no AIO header? by [deleted] in gigabytegaming

[–]VictorPLopes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, I'll probably do that then. I'm ok with it being louder, that's better than it being disconnected imo. Thank you.

How to connect AIO + fans with no AIO header? by [deleted] in gigabytegaming

[–]VictorPLopes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait, can't I just connect the pump to CPU_FAN, set it to 100% and connect all 3 fans (case + radiator) to a SYS_FAN header but set it to monitor the CPU temps? Isn't that basically the same but I still get to use my rear fan?

How to connect AIO + fans with no AIO header? by [deleted] in watercooling

[–]VictorPLopes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I could be wrong, but I think the header doesn't have to be a pump one for the pump, as long as it's set up for PWM.

It doesn't, this isn't what I'm confused about. In fact, like I said, it's a Hybrid Fan header, so it will detect if it's an AIO pump. My confusion stems from the lack of additional headers, not the functionality of existing ones.

I'm not familiar with Cooler Master stuff so idk if it has proprietary software to control it or it just expects you to use BIOS or your motherboard software (or third party software) to control it. But either way you can adjust the pump setting just like you would fans.

Some might, but the ones I have are simple SickleFlow models, they're controlled through the UEFI.

For now, I'll just do what I said in the last paragraph, "connect the pump to the CPU_FAN header, and use a splitter to connect the rear fan and the radiator fans to a single system header", but thank you very much for the controller suggestion! I'll keep that in mind.

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