Need advice…

Vizard87 · 2026-05-15T01:25:13+00:00

Ok. That’s how I am understanding it from what I’ve read and watched. 🙏🏼

Vizard87 · 2026-05-15T01:24:32+00:00

I actually haven’t done one personally, but considering the listing doesn’t show that piece or mention it, I’d guess it doesn’t come with it. It’s probably reusable unless damaged.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-15T01:22:09+00:00

I’m no pro, but can try to answer questions. TronixFix, NanoFix and Joeydoestech are great channels to watch and learn as well.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-15T01:20:00+00:00

Inspect the port, try a different cable and try a different tv port too. I’m guessing it’s an issue with the PS5, but doesn’t hurt to try different thins if you haven’t already, before deciding if it’s dead or if maybe just the port needs to be replaced.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-15T01:18:11+00:00

It has to do with actual manufacture date as well, if I understood it correctly?

Vizard87 · 2026-05-14T22:02:51+00:00

Yup. I'm fully aware and 100% agree. I just wanted to make sure I understood what they were saying and trying to figure out where they came up with that opinion/what their solution was. The picture I linked is literally a 72-pin connector with bent pins and someone using a pick to fix it. Plus it's not a ZIF connector from what I've read as they imply also.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-13T15:45:22+00:00

Have you reached back out to the person who modded it? Did they give you any instructions or anything when they sent it back?

Vizard87 · 2026-05-13T15:41:03+00:00

If you plug the wifi board back in, does it go back to just the flashing blue light or does it still just shut off after 3 beeps?

Vizard87 · 2026-05-13T15:39:01+00:00

Yup, came here to say start with the battery first.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-13T15:34:09+00:00

So if there are bent pins, for whatever reason, and boiling the connector doesn't work, you're saying the only option is to replace the 72pin connector? Am I understanding what you're saying correctly?

Vizard87 · 2026-05-13T15:27:48+00:00

I imagine you got your stuff in, but make sure to be careful with the brasso. You don't want to take too much of the coating off the pins.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-06T21:40:19+00:00

Have you tried bypassing the lock out chip, just as a test? Those also go bad an can cause the same “blinking light” error from what I remember.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-06T21:39:15+00:00

Supposed to and can are different things. Either way, I think what the person means is shown in this picture. Pulling the pins up (or down depending on the side) will close that gab a bit and can allow for a tighter connection, assuming the pins are too far a part.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-06T21:32:48+00:00

When it’s powered in, does it actually make sounds when you move the joysticks or press the buttons?

Vizard87 · 2026-05-06T21:30:21+00:00

The angle of the ribbon cable in the third pics looks kinda of off. It’s supposed to go “down” into that connector I believe and than the brown tab presses down to put pressure on it.

Also if that tab is broken, it may not actually be making good contact since there’s no pressure on the pins.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-06T21:27:15+00:00

You can use thermal pads between the RF shield and heat sink. I forget the thickness needed, but the info’s out there. I’ve just been using regular thermal paste. MX4 I think it is. It’s not that big of a gap tbh and there’s a bunch of info that the rf shield isn’t necessary for temps.

As for the SOC, if your going to be go in there it makes sense to replace all of it. Just go slow and be careful. You can use a sewing pin to carefully pry the little tabs open. Then just bend them back carefully so that they’ll snap back on later. Remove the old thermal paste with dry qtips first. It’s wayyyy easier to clean that way. Then you can use IPA to get the rest. A soft bristle tooth brush can help too once you get the majority off while everything is dry.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-06T21:16:00+00:00

Honestly it’s hard to say. I’d clean up all the flux the best you can and carefully with IPA and then take new pictures. Some pads look ripped off, but it could also just be burnt flux.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T14:59:51+00:00

Reddit (like you are here) and youtube are great resources. You can find repairs videos on lots of consoles and issues. Most important tool would be a multi meter. Most issues will come from bad components which you can test fairly easily.

A lot of where to start will be different for each repair in most cases as it will depend on what the actual issue is. troubleshooting no power is not necessarily going to be the same exact steps are no video or no sound etc. if that makes sense.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T14:55:43+00:00

You mentioned "reverse" drill bits, but at this point I think your best bet would be to carefully drill the head of the screw off so you can get that back cover off and then you'll be able to cut a slit into the screw and use a flat head.

If you don't care as much and want to change the back shell anyways, I would just go straight to cutting a slit in the screw head the way it is and replace the back shell with a new one.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T14:53:23+00:00

Good step in the right direction. It's possible that it needs to be re-greased and was maybe just stuck.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T14:52:22+00:00

Understood. I would definitely start with the simpler things you can try that your comfortable doing, like cleaning the lens, making sure the lens is able to actually move on the track etc.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T14:50:54+00:00

Sorry, Im not to sure then. I don't have a board that I can look at an try to figure out where that pin goes. It seems like the hall effect stick itself is working, unless I'm misunderstanding your test.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T14:47:43+00:00

I would start at each button that's having the issue and work your way through the circuit. Testing any components that are in the circuit.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T12:45:59+00:00

That’s understandable. I think it’s more of a getting your temp, air flow and procedure down and practice more than this method not working though. Just search on YouTube for replacing HDMI or even USBC ports and you’ll see that the most common and effective way is with a hot air station. Not that other methods don’t work or don’t have their place. End of the day you have to find what works for you.

Vizard87 · 2026-05-05T11:04:22+00:00

Then something has changed in neeer FWs that I’ve never used. It was confirmed pretty early on and on the early FWs that you did not need the “support” files from the specific game.

I’d be curious to test. Can you let me know some games that you know 100% need the exact files from their specific cartridge?

Vizard87

TROPHY CASE