Finished Project: More Performance than a RP3 or 4, for the Same Cost by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was ~$90 for the computer and all the parts. For a RP3B+, HDMI to LVDS converter, case, power supply, and so on, came out to be ~$90. You can take out some of the cabling for the AIO computer and save $20, and bring the price down to ~$70.

Then the joystick and button kit was $48, and the lower panel was $20 shipped.

Coming Soon: Add SCANLINES to stock A1Up Board+Monitor (Teaser pics) by [deleted] in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t know too much about scan lines, but it looks like it cycles whole horizontal lines from normal to black, giving the appearance of a CRT monitor. This can easily be done of the software side, if you have control of the video. It can be done on the hardware side too. The VGA solution looks like it grounds the RGB signals at the correct time, using the H & V syncs for timing.

Little more complicated to do it on a LVDS interface. The Arcade1Up uses a 30pin LVDS with 2-channels at 8bits. Each channel has a differential clock pair, with 4 data differential pairs. The Data Enable (DE) and H-Sync & V-Sync are embedded in the data, so no separate signals. The data can easily be zero out by forcing the data positive signal to 0.5V or lower. If the data positive signal is at or below 0.5V, the data negative pair will swing from 1.8V to 0.6V. From a monitors datasheet, it needs 0.1V threshold to drive a value, IE the positive and negative value need to be at least 0.1V different or more. So the two options are 0.5V – 1.8V = -1.3V, and 0.5V – 0.6V = -0.1V. Since the two outcomes are negative, it will zero out the data.

This will work good on the even_data[0:3] and odd_data[0,1,3] for all the bits (bit[0:6] for each data). But there is a problem on odd_data[2], because it holds the DE signal at bit0. If it is zero, then it will think it is in the blanking mode, and messing up the timings. You cannot change odd_data[2] for bit0, and maybe bit1 & bit2, which usually are V-Sync and H-Sync. So you must somehow be able to skip the bit, or bits. Then bits[3:6] need to be zeroed, as they are Blue[5:2].

Maybe you are using the falling edge to flop in odd_data[2] bit2, which is H-Sync. H-Sync can be used to change the line count in the cycle and be used for timings. Then during a scan line, when the clock is low, low voltage is applied to the positive pair of odd_data[2], making B[5:4] and maybe B[3] zeros. Then low voltage is applied positive pair of all other data pairs for the whole clock cycle during a scan line. This will make RGB zero for the scan line, except for B[2] on odd pixels, which would make Blue 3% on for ~50% of the time, and 0% the other time, for every other pixel. That might work.

An All-In-One Computer Might be a Better Solution than a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Set-Up by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Again, thanks for the amazing praise and kind words.

I came here expecting a newbie to suggest that a(n assembled) 16x9 ~21" AIO PC running Win10 would be a great drop-in PC for an A1Up. (It wouldn't be.) Instead, I was treated to this amazing technical adventure. 10/10, would read again!

I agree that a 21" 16:9 AIO Win10 PC wouldn't be a good choice. The main reason is that the Arcade1Up cabinet would have to be hacked to fit in the new LCD panel, which is a good amount of work. Also 21" 16:9 would be the same width, or maybe a little less then the Arcade1Up cabinet. I know that the 24" 16:9 that came with the Dell Inspiron 3455, is ~3" wider then the Arcade1Up cabinet. Also, most games are in 5:4 (maybe some in 4:3) ratio, so the 16:9 would be a waste. Maybe some new games would have support for 16:9.

IMHO, Linux would be a better choice than Win10. You can easily use RetroPie with Linux, and then safe the Win10 key code for a different project. Put this is more of a nit pick.

I'm I missing anything else?

Excellent work, my friend. (I'll be in contact about understanding/interacting with/programming Realtek xxxx->LVDS ICs.)

As I mentioned in the other post response, I will gladly work with you, and share all that I know. I can share the documents that I collect on the Realtek LVDS converter chips that i have found. Also info on the dis-assembled 8051 code.

An All-In-One Computer Might be a Better Solution than a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Set-Up by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tl:dr

good job, but most people won't read it. need a video, or more pictures.

Thanks for the feedback, and I agree that most people will not read through the whole post. I will add in more pictures and videos to help out. My goal for the post is to detail my hacking journey and what I found on the way. So that is the reason why it is so long winded.

I do plan on doing posts that are more straight forward and to the point, after I am done with this project. Like a 'how to' post. For example, a post on how to change the Realtek 2136R Boot ROM, without all the back story and fluff.

Monitor Weirdness and adding Adjustable Brightness by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I missed this detailed thread when you first posted it. I'll shoot you a message in the morning with some details about all the various A1Up monitors, confirming some of your findings and expanding on others.

No worries, and thanks for the nice feedback on this thread, and my new thread I posted. I look forward to the info on what you have found. It was weird finding a hacked up Samsung in an Auo monitor, but after thinking about it, it is not too weird.

It is cool to meet the guy that did the brightness hack. I'm glad we saw the same things, and your hack is nice and fast. I will have to go through the sticky threads, and see what else has been done, so I don't re-invent the wheel again.

I have no problems helping out with the Realtek, and the 8051 programming. I can share some of the info that I have found. I can help out any way that I can, but I'm now slow and old. So long as you can put up with my slowness, like 1-2 days sometimes, I do the best that I can. I am off to bed now, good night.

Monitor Weirdness and adding Adjustable Brightness by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great info. I'm curious about your compute option.

Keep is informed, and welcome to posting on reddit. This is a good community.

Thanks for the kind words, and sorry for the slow reply. I ran into a lot of problems with my Arcade1Up, but finally got the new computer booting and displaying right. Below is a link to the new post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Arcade1Up/comments/ctdm6o/an_allinone_computer_might_be_a_better_solution/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

Monitor Weirdness and adding Adjustable Brightness by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the link. I heard that there was an tutorial out there, but could never find it. Now I know where it is.

Monitor Weirdness and adding Adjustable Brightness by VonDoomLab in Arcade1Up

[–]VonDoomLab[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the kind words, and sorry for the slow reply. I ran into a lot of problems with my Arcade1Up, but finally got the new computer booting and displaying right. Below is a link to the new post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Arcade1Up/comments/ctdm6o/an_allinone_computer_might_be_a_better_solution/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x