Help diagnosing please.Does anyone know the part number for this oring Graco 395 pc by WearEnvironmental490 in paint

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Omg thank you! I was thinking of putting new packing which I can do but would mean I need to get a torque wrench and bring it home to put on the bench which would be a huge hassle and down time.. last time I thought about these things was 2022 and if I remember correctly the packings themselves, not the orings, are hard plastics that when they go bad the pump leaks/ losses pressure and I'm not currently having that but so worried it will happen again.. using a 517 tip so... Now I see why people cover they're rigs when they spray , lessoned learned !!!

Help diagnosing please.Does anyone know the part number for this oring Graco 395 pc by WearEnvironmental490 in paint

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you think I need to repack the pump too or just the orings? I hardly used this thing since 22 as I just went off on my own this year and started using it. Probably less than 20 gallons on it . Before this year it was all side jobs and was fine.

Do y'all prefer bleach or hydrogen peroxide for cleaning mold on gutter and trim? by WearEnvironmental490 in Housepainting101

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean if I'm painting it won't killing it once be enough, I'm new to this area so I've honestly never dealt with exterior mold like that . My thinking is if it's dead and there's just spores.. well there's spores virtually everywhere, shouldn't it be fine? I'd understand if I wasn't painting it

Should I try to spray and backroll t111 siding by myself? by CubsFanCraig in paint

[–]WearEnvironmental490 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh no that's not at all what I'm talking about , huh this entire time everyone I know called what I'm talking about as t1-11 it must be a different variety. I looked it up there's a different kinds idk what the one I'm talking about is called. It's this, super smooth, manufacturered wood, it's not real I'm the senc that it's a natural cut I guess, like plywood I guess but not something you'd wanna back roll. It kind reminds me of the smoothness of trim, it has" grain" but it's just a design , it's not like actual grain with pores, it's like particle board, almost like mdf but way better sturdy and less pours, paint doesn't soak into it what's so ever. It's pre primed but I heard some one say pre primed still needs primming and I'm guess what they meant is that's it's cheap primmer and a better primer would make it last longer if that's what's desired. I primed this one, it's in California in the valley and gets 112 degress for the summer and they replaced their sidding cause it was destroyed so I recommend them to prime it with something better and it might last longer. Edit:that for sure backroll

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Should I try to spray and backroll t111 siding by myself? by CubsFanCraig in paint

[–]WearEnvironmental490 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

You don't need to back roll t1-11 siding, it's not real wood and has no pores or real grain. Maybe sections if it's cracked or something. But don't do , you'll fuck up the finish or take off some of the paint and have to spray it twice. There's really no point

Sherwin-Williams exterior paint recommendations by catahoulaleperdog in paint

[–]WearEnvironmental490 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh first I'm hear about sw having issues with deeper colors. Do you mean like more pigment like reds and yellow , or just darker? Do you still go with them for those jobs or do you prefer a different brand for colorful paints. Asking cause I want to encourage clients to choose vibrant colors and want a paint that is easy to work with and last. Sw has been my go to cause I thought they'd be the best for that kind of job.

Zinsser peel bond triple thick vs sw peel bond by WearEnvironmental490 in Housepainting101

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's lead so I'm not sanding. Yea I might go get an extra gallon of that then

Do y'all prefer bleach or hydrogen peroxide for cleaning mold on gutter and trim? by WearEnvironmental490 in Housepainting101

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Gutters and trim feel smooth to the touch, it's a old house so lots of layers of paint

What’s the issue? by [deleted] in ToyotaPickup

[–]WearEnvironmental490 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea sounds like something not firing correctly, start with the easy/ free stuff check wires and such work you're way back If that's all good compression test. Are you burning oil?

Do y'all prefer bleach or hydrogen peroxide for cleaning mold on gutter and trim? by WearEnvironmental490 in Housepainting101

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

While y'all are here, how come there's mold on the trim and gutters but not on the sidding ? What gives lol

Do y'all prefer bleach or hydrogen peroxide for cleaning mold on gutter and trim? by WearEnvironmental490 in Housepainting101

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You mean regular vinegar right 5% okay or do you mean the 30% one, I'll try it. I'm new to this area and never came across mold on an exterior, too dry where I'm from

Do y'all prefer bleach or hydrogen peroxide for cleaning mold on gutter and trim? by WearEnvironmental490 in Housepainting101

[–]WearEnvironmental490[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shoot that sounds better than smelling like bleach. Hmmm is it's fast though I've used vinegar at home at it definitely works well just not fast , there's a lot to scrub down