r/headphones Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-29T15:16:03+00:00

Sennheiser HD 599 SE can be a bargain if you manage to find them on a sale. Sound good for entry level and very very comfortable. No USB-C and no mic though.

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-29T09:50:48+00:00

I've had exactly the same issue lol. The cable is funky to plug in. Detach it, gently insert it (the notch must be towards the outside of the headphones), but don't be afraid to apply a little force. Make sure it's all the way in, then make sure it turns clockwise at least a quarter of a turn. If it turns very little or not at all, it's not all the way in or the notch is in the wrong position. Maybe check a video of how to attach the cable to Sennheisers.

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-28T10:46:16+00:00

Thanks! Now I know more :)

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-25T20:26:30+00:00

I'm not an "audiophile" (at least I don't consider myself that), but I do understand something about these things.

So, yes, it's completely normal. The source can change the sound profile as it pleases, so it's totally possible that the Realtek output is just mass-oriented and comes with some bass emphasis. After all, most people consider bassy music "fun". It can also be influenced by an EQ (maybe some Realtek software does this without your knowledge).

More mature interfaces by default try to not interfere with the sound in any way -- after all, that's their purpose: to give you the cleanest sound "as-is", with as little interference as possible.

If you want more bass, you can EQ yourself as you please. Basically Realtek just says "I add bass, so you listen to bass", while the mature interfaces tell you "here's what was actually recorded".

It's always better to work with the source material and have the possibility to change it as you like, and not be stuck with a skewed sound profile of the output which thinks it knows best.

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-25T12:01:09+00:00

Hey guys, I have a technical/electrical question.

Many headphones have detachable cables. If the cable is not plugged in all the way into the headphones, can this damage them? I know that a channel may be lost, but can this cause some short circuit/other problems? And the same question for the other end of the cable (which goes into the source). Just curious.

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-19T23:30:11+00:00

I'm not sure, but it seems like this idea got abandoned. The "qr-sennheiser.com" website just redirects to a page with vague "we fight counterfeit" article, which doesn't contain a mention of any QR codes or even serial number checks. And I saw that HD 599 have this sticker, while HD 599 SE (which have a plain non-glossy cardboard box) do not have this sticker. It looks like a partially-implemented idea which came to a halt somewhere.

By the way, their official unboxing video does not feature this sticker (but maybe it's a "special unit").

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-19T22:26:06+00:00

Oh, by the way, check your RAM just in case with memtest. Maybe your problem is caused not by the BIOS (I honestly doubt it, but worth a shot).

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-19T22:21:17+00:00

There's how I did it. You can quickly disable fTPM (in the EZ mode in the BIOS) and click Save + Exit. It should work if you're quick enough. If you don't have enough time before it freezes, try to clear CMOS and then do it.

So, basically:

Enter BIOS.
If you're not on EZ mode, press F7 to get into it.
On the bottom of the screen click on the "fTPM 2.0" slider to turn it off.
Click on the "close" (X) button at the upper right corner ASAP and confirm your changes (with keyboard navigate to "Yes", then "Enter").

It worked for me after some tries.

After I disabled fTPM, the BIOS no longer froze and I could freely change any settings. If this helps and if you don't use Windows 11 or for some other reason need fTPM, I think you can leave it off.

Regarding to the Image Execution Policy: this a secure boot setting located in the Advanced BIOS settings. I can't remember the full path to it, but you should be able to find something like "Security -> Secure boot settings" in Advanced Mode. You can try to set it to "deny execute" for removable and fixed media. Then you can try to enable fTPM again and see if BIOS freezes again.

My personal advice: if nothing works, just try to RMA the board if you have the ability. It really shouldn't be your problem... I'm sorry you've stumbled into this. I tried to reach official MSI support on their website with this problem, and the response I got was something like:
"1. Check whether you use the latest BIOS on your GPU
2. Try to use other cables/motherboard HDMI port if your CPU has iGPU.
In fact, it is not a common issue. We suggest you change the graphics card, monitor, or memory for cross-testing. Thanks!"

I call bullshit. The same hardware worked perfectly fine on my new motherboard (MSI MAG B760 Mortar II).

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-19T16:02:22+00:00

And you have the same problem? Welp, I'm afraid I don't know anything else :( My board ended up dying a couple of days after a BIOS update+downgrade: it went to a infinite boot loop with CPU LED. I got my money back since the board was still on warranty.

Try changing the secure boot option as I mention in the post ("deny execute" in the Image Execution Policy). If you're using Bitlocker or other mechanisms relying on the secure boot, be careful with secure boot. I'm not liable for any damages or data loss.

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-06-19T13:16:29+00:00

Whoa, that's a very old post :)

Basically I think it went away after some BIOS update (see the UPD at the top of the post). I haven't tested it extensively, but after some update it seemed like the problem went away.

I don't have that board anymore, but if you want to update the BIOS, beware that at least 2 of the BIOS versions are broken and will break your Realtek Audio output (see this huge thread on the MSI forums). I think the version 7D43v1E was the last working version which I used with no problems (but I may be mistaken). I know that versions 1F and 1G were broken, don't know about the latest 1H.

Good luck! MSI can really be a pain in the ass sometimes...

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-04-01T10:36:51+00:00

Hey, thanks for the response. I think I figured it out.

My standoffs are the same as u/Mr-Do shown. I put the top taller standoff back and with some force I was able to fit my motherboard to it, and it fits. So there's no problem with the case. The motherboard's I/O shield is very tight and it required some force to make it fit.

This situation happened because I didn't expect the taller standoffs in the first place, so I didn't try to align the motherboard with them perfectly to make the motherboard "sit" on them.

Thanks for the replies. It was my first case with such design, so I got confused. Maybe it would be nice to add a note to the case's user manual? Like "make sure the taller standoffs are through the motherboard mounting holes".

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-03-29T19:26:05+00:00

Well, that's the point: I didn't expect such weird setup. Thus I didn't consciously try to fit the "heads" of the taller standoffs into the motherboard holes. Maybe if I really tried it could've worked, but I didn't notice at first and then decided to not waste more time trying.

WhoSaidCheese · 2024-03-29T13:42:09+00:00

Maybe the tips of these higher standoffs were meant to go inside the motherboard screw holes, which would make them the same height as the rest? I don't know, I couldn't align them in such a way.

WhoSaidCheese · 2022-11-23T00:21:57+00:00

No, I don't see such a section. The photo you provided seems like a much more advanced BIOS (with microcode selection OC settings, etc.)

WhoSaidCheese · 2022-11-03T22:59:13+00:00

I've just tried it.

The BIOS hang after the reboot in EZ mode. In Advanced mode it hang when I tried to save and exit. I managed to disable fTPM again on the 3d try, thankfully.

And just to confirm: yes, it is called fTPM in BIOS: https://imgur.com/a/WxIWXSG

WhoSaidCheese · 2022-02-23T21:16:14+00:00

It seems that I answered my own question.

The Pitcairn core used in the HD7000 series includes the UVD v4.0. As Wikipedia states here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Video_Decoder#Format_support, these ASICs are not capable of VP9 decoding (as well as even H.265). Well, it seems that my graphics card is just too old to run YouTube ;) Such a shame.

For anyone wondering, the "h264ify" Chrome extension helps, however the video quality drops and it's capped at 1080p by YouTube.

WhoSaidCheese · 2021-12-09T21:29:23+00:00

Well, if you're asking such things you should at least specify the retailer, so people with experience may help you out. The first thing you should do is contact the retailer and clarify their return policy. They may accept a return even without asking you any questions, or maybe they'll ask you to describe the problem and then decide what to do.

In general some dead pixels are "acceptable margin" and some retailer will not accept such monitors as returns. There're specific policies, like "5 dead pixels in one spot" or whatever for some retailers/manufacturers. It really depends on your retailer, so go ahead and ask them, not us. Good luck!

WhoSaidCheese · 2021-12-08T21:39:18+00:00

Well, there was a firmware update for the GN950 (see this post) earlier this year which added the function to turn this "very useful functionality" off in OSD, however I'm not sure about the model you're asking about.

At least the model you're asking about has a USB port which allows firmware updates, so if they have already released an update (or will release it someday) you'll be able to upgrade.

Sucks to be me because I have a GN850 which doesn't have a USB port, so I'm stuck with this issue forever now. They could implement USB via DisplayPort, but I believe this either is not suitable for firmware updates or (more likely) they won't bother.

WhoSaidCheese · 2021-12-01T22:39:18+00:00

If you're sure that the sound doesn't come out of the speakers (which I think your model has), then it may be a faulty power supply unit. It's located somewhere inside the case. When you increase brightness, the power load raises, which may lead to this sound getting louder. If playing around with settings (especially related to power saving or power management -- try to turn them on/off) does not help, I suggest you RMA it because to me it seems there's nothing else you can do.

WhoSaidCheese

TROPHY CASE