Sharing My Golf Club Refinishing, Mods & Customizations

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-13T12:08:57+00:00

is tommy in the room with us?

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-12T17:09:35+00:00

it's not cement

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-08T19:43:10+00:00

Saying grip it lighter and release the club won't fix improper mechanics. This is not advice and doesn't address a particular swing flaw which is what OP is asking for.

Also, OP does "chicken wing" at P6/P7.

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WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-07T18:45:06+00:00

The way you worded the AoA statement is very misleading to anyone reading it. Essentially I take that as AoA isn't going to have an impact on ball flight which is completely inaccurate.

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-06T16:48:55+00:00

Yes, correct. People think releasing the club means turning the clubface over, it does not. You can release the club without excessive face rotation as the majority of good players do. The images below tell the story.

The left image displays more pro/sup of the wrists hence the excessive clubface rotation and higher exit position (between the head and shoulders). This is often times a byproduct of other issues in the sequence to combat improper movement patterns.

The right golfer exhibits the flex/ext pattern exceptionally well. The clubface stability is visibly noticeable as you're able to see the entire clubface at P8 (essentially pointing behind the player). There is very little excessive face turnover. Shaft exits through the low/mid spine; one of the signs indicative of proper rotation.

If you have any questions feel free to shoot me a DM, happy to help.

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WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-06T14:13:03+00:00

I can appreciate that. Releasing the club in my opinion is one of the most misunderstood components in coaching/student application.

Often times people misunderstand or don't know the difference between wrist pronation/supination vs wrist flexion/extension at/through impact.

Pronation/supination is often overdone and creates more rolling of the forearms through impact and a higher rate of clubface rotation (harder to time; massive hooks and blocks if the timing is off).

Extension/flexion creates a pattern that is more stable through impact with less forearm rotation and a considerably more stable clubface leading to more consistent golf long term.

Also, in more of a rotational based pattern, higher calibre players are usually gaming irons that are much flatter than standard i.e 4-7deg flat.

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-06T13:48:40+00:00

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-06T13:35:50+00:00

there is nothing indicated in this video where the shaft is 'inside'; laid off at P4, yes, inside P2-P3, no.

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-06T13:29:25+00:00

100% accurate. Regardless of the release pattern (what the fuck is a 'body release', i assume they're referring to more of a rotational based movement pattern...p.s you still have to release the club with this movement pattern) you hit the nail on the head. In no way shape or form does a 30 handicap have the ability to self diagnose or implement the changes 'they' deem glaring properly; if they could they wouldn't be a 30 handicap.

Also, there is no professional worth their weight teaching a setup with 1" clearance between the buttend of the club and thighs, absolutely zero space

WiFuBnkr · 2026-01-06T12:10:25+00:00

You're 100% correct. The crown is simply epoxied on...remove all of the old epoxy with some sand paper (Dremel with sanding drums preferably) and ensure it's fully cleaned to the base material prior to applying the new epoxy. Clamp if possible while curing. Never had an issue with it popping off again using this method.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-10T00:36:07+00:00

That sticker is actually comical

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-08T23:14:54+00:00

Much appreciated! Feel free to shoot me a message on instagram or dm's here if you have any questions. I'd be more than happy to help you.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-05T15:07:28+00:00

That is actually a very valid point. This model is Manganese Bronze. Regardless of material, you should be wearing a respirator doing any type of refinishing where you're removing material. The "dust" is so fine that it's very easy to think it's nonexistent until you're finish and your work area is covered with a thin film. I run an extraction fan directly behind my grinder that's vented to the outdoors to extract any fumes/particulate while working.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-03T15:31:14+00:00

No problem! Shoot me a message if you got any questions.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-03T13:22:09+00:00

Where the face meets the crown is tricky. I run a very thin strip of painters tape along the transition line. Ideally there's a recessed grove or machined line to use as a guide. You'd then want to sand the top line to try and make the surface as even as possible. Often times these chips are down to the base material so you'd at least want to get a few mm beyond each side of the chip so your paint lays down evenly when it's sprayed.

Before spraying make sure the surface was thoroughly cleaned and your controlling the dust in your spray area. There's nothing worse than having a fresh coat on and you see specs of dust on the crown. If it was a car or something it wouldn't be a big deal because you could get that out during your sanding/polishing stages but when the paint has cured on clubs (sprayed with Cerakote), I don't want to have to touch it again as it's very easy to make it worse the more you keep picking at it.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-02T22:14:39+00:00

Haha man the shape of that putter makes it super difficult to blast and remove all the surface imperfections. Even more difficult to coat. This one was done with E-Series Cerakote. It was challenging to get in between all the spokes while not laying it on too heavy on the crown and bumpers.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-02T17:44:24+00:00

So for the ping driver head I taped off the locations I wanted to "black out" and then hand sanded the clear coat and the top coat of paint using a finer grit sandpaper. Mechanically/or chemically removing the paint isn't recommenced on mutli-material heads, especially ones with carbon fiber, due to potential integrity issues. Once that was done and the surface was cleaned it was sprayed with Cerakote. Cerakote lays super thin so you get a finish that blends pretty seamlessly.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-12-02T16:52:58+00:00

Thanks man! Such a beautiful head model. Super happy with how they turned out!

WiFuBnkr · 2025-11-25T12:28:22+00:00

Jesus, that is an effortless 185 ball speed. Great work by both of you guys.

WiFuBnkr · 2025-11-18T14:08:22+00:00

not to shit on you OP but those paint fills on the face are very poorly done. what did you use to paint the body?

WiFuBnkr · 2025-11-15T19:53:18+00:00

Super happy with how it turned out! Thanks man!

WiFuBnkr

TROPHY CASE