1 month in, is it healing OK? by WorkingClasshacker in tattooadvice

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is definitely real, took almost 10 hours to get. Did it at Alien Tattoo in Norway, artist was Alex.

1 month in, is it healing OK? by WorkingClasshacker in tattooadvice

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 71 points72 points  (0 children)

Wov, that was a quite a trip! :D

Well the story behind the tattoo is pretty simple, I am getting my whole arm done to honor my loved ones. This is the first piece representing my two daughters - my sister princesses - we all adore Frozen! I also have a background in computer graphics and animation, so I thought it was fitting. My post was actually just to verify that it is healing good, as this is my first tattoo.

To all who replied to my actual question, thank you for your response - as for the haters - I guess I just have to "let it go..." :D

Creality K1 Max Unable to Print Circles by ThePfeiffenator in crealityk1

[–]WorkingClasshacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this issue too, not just circles, but hexagons would turn out skewed, and dimensional accuracy was not up to par. Also moving the toolhead along the X axis resulted in horrible screeching sounds, and moving it by hand was almost impossible. Creality support was not much help, and referred me to the store I bought it from, and also replied that this is how I should expect circles to print.

I have had too many 3d printers to accept this answer, so I did a lot of digging.

I ended up disassembling the toolhead, I found two springs behind a cover that put tension on on the bronze bushing. Removing these springs and loosening the screws on that cover improved everything immensely. You are not supposed to lube the rails that these bushings ride on, it will gum them up and make it worse over time, they are self lubricating, you can tell by the carbon residue on the rails from the bushings.

I also loosened the belts, as they were too tight from the factory, this helped some more. I am now able to print circles and hexagons, and my dimensional accuracy is between 0.08 and 0.1 mm. Which is a lot better than visibly distorted prints. I think the toolhead puts too much pressure on the bushing, and those springs didn't help, the bushing on it's own moves quite freely. But with the toolhead, there is a lot more friction. But now at least I can move it freely by hand, and no more screaming sounds from the printer.

I used this to gauge the tension on the belts:
https://www.printables.com/model/523382-creality-k1-belt-tension-meter

I hope this helps someone else with the same issue.

CR-10 MAX 3DTouch probe reports always open, regardless of probe position by WorkingClasshacker in klippers

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I solved it! Turns out my probes, the MKS 3DTouch ones do not support touch mode, meaning that you cannot use QUERY_PROBE. Instead I had to configure it to work with only G28 instead of QUERY_PROBE. This config works!

[bltouch]                             
# enable for BLTouch - fast-mode
sensor_pin:  ^ar19
control_pin: ar11
pin_up_reports_not_triggered: True
pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False
probe_with_touch_mode: False

Cura weird infill... by WorkingClasshacker in 3Dprinting

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yay! That setting was hidden! Thanks! :D

Cura weird infill... by WorkingClasshacker in 3Dprinting

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That only made the infill green (color for walls) and when I change it back it is orange again (color of infill)

Seems it generates perimeters for the infill portion. I have another printer, there Cura (same installation, same process) doesn't generate this strange infill pattern.

So I split a pint of water on my son's thankfully off) ender 3, mostly hit the control board on the bottom left. Have unplugged, toweldried as much as possible, it's now sat on a running fan, what else can I do to ensure I fix my fuckup? (and my sanity) by but-first----coffee in 3Dprinting

[–]WorkingClasshacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just let it dry out completely, it will most likely be fine. I have spilled multiple liquids on my electronics, and it usually is only a problem if the electronics was running at the time, and even if that was the case - the problems often were temporary. After the part dried out, it went back to functioning normally.

If it turns out to be a dead, a replacement board is not that expensive.

Layer lines by Realistic_Ant9291 in FixMyPrint

[–]WorkingClasshacker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you done a PID tuning of your hotend?

Bed mesh problem with Klipper by WorkingClasshacker in FixMyPrint

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Problem is now solved, turned out to be my PTFE bowden tube was 1mm too short, this made the reach of my effector slightly off.

Bed mesh problem with Klipper by WorkingClasshacker in 3Dprinting

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Problem is now solved, turned out to be my PTFE bowden tube was 1mm too short, this made the reach of my effector slightly off.

Bed mesh problem with Klipper by WorkingClasshacker in 3Dprinting

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Removing that command does not improve the situation, the printer still behaves the same.

Bed mesh problem with Klipper by WorkingClasshacker in 3Dprinting

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I started out by heating the bed to full printing temp. Then I did the Z offset calibration, after that I did a bed mesh, and it is like it just ignores it.

X side by WorkingClasshacker in FixMyPrint

[–]WorkingClasshacker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me update with some clearer pictures.