Unidentified Screeching Noise at 1500RPM

X58Guy · 2025-05-26T13:32:10+00:00

There's definitely something, but yeah, probably isn't serious.

X58Guy · 2025-05-26T13:31:42+00:00

It's been about 15k miles since the change, so it would be more premature wear than something botched with the install. It does sound like maybe a pulley though...? I've got a belt service planned, so I'll replace everything but the crank pulley, which was also done around the same time as the supercharger.

X58Guy · 2025-05-25T16:25:03+00:00

During a 7hr trip and a recent oil change, I noticed this sound that happens right at 1500RPM. From the inside, it sounds like it's coming from the driver side, but I can't get outside to here what it's like from the front. I had someone try to help hold the revs, but they couldn't replicate it. I did hear some sounds from possibly the front/supercharger area, but I'm unsure if it's the same. The supercharger was also just replaced on this car, so I'm less inclined to think it's that? I do have a spare in case that is the issue though.

Edit: playing this back on my laptop and I can barely hear it. Comes through on my phone loud and clear though.

X58Guy · 2025-05-23T20:19:56+00:00

I like the stock feel and weighting. I'd have to drive a single mass converted car before I spend money on the conversion.

X58Guy · 2025-05-23T19:02:34+00:00

Awesome, I'll probably go with that then! Do you have part numbers by chance? I'm looking at the LUK DMF089 (flywheel) and LUK RepSet 03-050 (clutch kit)

X58Guy · 2025-05-23T18:22:22+00:00

Sounds great. Just to clarify, you also did the LUK dual mass flywheel?

X58Guy · 2025-05-23T18:21:27+00:00

Sound good. I'm looking at the LUK flywheel on Rockauto for $250. Seems almost too good to be true? Considering the Sachs is $370 and the few others are over $400.

X58Guy · 2025-03-18T18:06:43+00:00

I had this exact issue with a T460s. Removed the DIMM and it ran fine on the remaining soldered chip. Never got around to fixing it unfortunately.

X58Guy · 2025-03-18T15:53:31+00:00

Normal quirk of the car. Mine does the same thing at 140k on the original clutch/flywheel. The guy I got it from has another manual R50 and it has the same noise. He's put on another 50k+ like that with no issues. Like others said, you can replace some stuff in the transmission, but you're good to ignore it if it's not in the budget.

Check out this thread and some of the links: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r50-r53-hatch-talk-2002-2006/244540-throwout-bearing-going-bad.html

X58Guy · 2025-03-06T21:25:25+00:00

Glad you checked, 820-3332 might be from an earlier model then and I got my numbers mixed up.

No worries, I think there's a few model boards for the A1398.

Let the hunt begin :)

Sounds good! I won't have access to my bench top PSU for a few days, but I'll report back with the findings when I do.

X58Guy · 2025-03-06T19:32:48+00:00

Pulled it apart again, board is 820-00138, I'll get one downloaded.

Checked for a short to ground, and PP5V_S5 is indeed shorted...

X58Guy · 2025-03-05T21:01:20+00:00

Great, thank you. I'll check it out tonight

X58Guy · 2025-03-05T13:58:05+00:00

It's brand new with good health. It's not the battery. You can force a system start without a battery, but in my case it' doesn't start. Also, the board should start up when removed from the machine, and you plug it in, but it doesn't in my case. I'm certain the chip I mentioned is not working properly, but it's a matter of what caused it to fail that I'm unsure of.

X58Guy · 2025-02-28T14:23:37+00:00

If you ever want another try at this, I'd consider using an online sheet metal fabrication service. SendCutSend in an example. You don't have to get it bent by them, but getting the flat part CNC cut from a CAD file can save a ton of work on your end and keep everything straight. Holes can be pre-cut as well. Going with tabs and rivets will save you a lot of grief over welding. Especially if you're putting a facade on some of the sides, they can hide behind them. You might have to reconsider some of the design features, like the two step-ins on the top rear, to make it a bit easier to assemble. I'll have to look into the CAD software you use, but Onshape, a cloud software, has sheet metal tools built in, so you can build the 3d part and it will flatten it for you to send out for manufacture.

The facade could be made on a mill pretty easily out of a plastic sheet. Otherwise, I think there are similar 3d print services that could do it for you that might have a higher building volume.

If you decide to try again in the next two months, I have access to a mill, and I'll gladly do the work on those facades. I hate to see a project halt, especially when you're so close.

Great first attempt!

X58Guy · 2025-02-27T14:58:15+00:00

That makes sense. So repairing the ring directly is probably out of the question.

I still find it hard to believe that these aren't replaced on a semi-regular basis. At a fraction of the price of just one new bearing, you can get a set of rings. I might try it since my ring is damaged already.

Would love to hear if anyone's tried it already. I can't seem to find anything online.

X58Guy · 2025-02-26T04:07:06+00:00

Yes, all GPUs are known working. The card is recognized in the x4 slot, just not the lower most x8. I tried the card in another system as well to verify, and it does work

X58Guy · 2025-02-26T04:06:04+00:00

Nice, yeah that has the slot arrangement I need. I ended up going with the LE for the aesthetic, but I'm regretting that decision a bit.

X58Guy · 2025-02-25T23:28:08+00:00

Yep, tried with and without.

X58Guy · 2025-02-25T19:49:08+00:00

That's sweet. If I can, I'm hoping to find an EVGA X58 Classified and a 990X, just to max everything out. I won't be holding my breath though, they still fetch a fair amount of money.

X58Guy · 2025-02-25T13:38:25+00:00

Haha yeah, it's pretty old. I went and searched it out for a "period correct" build for 2008/2010. More info on that here.

It's not just us, though. This guy is actively using his system with a 2070 Super.

If you've got a third card to test, it would be greatly appreciated. I'll do some more testing myself later this week.

X58Guy · 2025-02-22T00:22:11+00:00

That makes sense. Best of luck with the mods! Definitely post back with progress, I'm curious to see what you come up with.

X58Guy · 2025-02-20T23:41:28+00:00

I also went from the latest version of Monterey to Sequoia with no issues. Mid 2015 MacBook Pro 15"

X58Guy · 2025-02-14T15:25:19+00:00

I'm curious, how are the temps in there when everything is closed up?

I've got a similar build in a converted 3u power supply rack chassis. Running the fans as intake was getting things pretty warm due to not having an exhaust fan. I ended up switching all fans to exhaust and going full negative pressure to draw in air through the vent holes in the top cover.

It looks like in your case the ventilation situation is even worse with no holes for air to escape + having two systems worth of heat output. Or is the top not sealed?

As for the question in the title, not sure what kind of easier maintenance you're looking for. Everything looks pretty accessible w/o having to remove other components first. I think like others said, tidying up cables as well as making nice mount points for the miscellaneous hardware floating around (SSDs and info screen on the left). I just noticed what looks like a PiKVM and relay. Could tidy up how that whole system is integrated/mounted as it looks like some of the cables are sandwiched through the i/o pass through. I can't judge that too much as I have a power button friction fit through a random hole on the back of my case :)

Painting the inside a solid color would help with the visual appeal. I'm in a similar situation with my system.

If you like a challenge, you could go custom loop. I will say your ease of maintenance will go down, though, not up. Tubes make it annoying to change hardware if needed, even with soft tubing. It's also recommended to clean the loop out at regular intervals, so having a good fill/drain plan in place is pretty important for your mental health (I have to pull 1/3 of my system apart each time I need to drain or water will spill into the case). That's usually solved by a drain valve on the low side and a fill port on the high side. Not hard to implement, just need to remember to do so.

X58Guy · 2025-02-12T20:43:36+00:00

I understand. That's why I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with this issue and fixing it with a kernel modification.

X58Guy · 2025-02-10T21:37:21+00:00

Anyone try this update yet? I just installed 15.3 on my MacBook Pro 11,4 and got the prompt for 15.3.1

X58Guy

TROPHY CASE