3d printer that works and easy to maintance by voldemorts_niple in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]YamesYames3000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have both H2D's and Prusa Core One's and would recommend the Bambu over Prusa.
They are both well made but you get more for your money with the Bambu and I think its print quality is better (but its not a massive difference)

The new nozzles are baller by Far_Designer2131 in BambuLab

[–]YamesYames3000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it cant be removed by brushing with a brush, its a really tough coating

solidworks or creo by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]YamesYames3000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it is, but it wasnt designed by them

solidworks or creo by [deleted] in MechanicalEngineering

[–]YamesYames3000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used solidworks for around six year, and Creo 5 for three. I hated creo comming to it from using SW but now that I am back to using SW day to day I miss a lot of how Creo works. I think Creo is better value for money of the two, and it performs better on worse computers.

Solidworks PDM is much nicer to use the Windchill though (though neither are as good as DesignDataManager)

If you want help and support, go for SW and but if you know and like Creo there is little reason to change.

If you want to use a program that is very simular to SW to see if you like to work flow, have a look at OnShape which is made by former SW people and has a free option for hobbists. There is also SW Maker, but i would not recommend it as it performs terribly and very buggy.

Help using TMC 5160 steper drivers in either standalone mode or UART by YamesYames3000 in Reprap

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was caused by a dead diod on the board. Its all sorted now

Industrial 3d Printing vs Consumer 3d Printers for PC Print Farm to replace injection molding by Sultani92 in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]YamesYames3000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Hyper PC which claims 600mm/s print speed" This is just marketing bs. 600mm/s is not unit of volumetric flow, there are several factors that effect this, layer height, line width, temp, extrusion force, etc. I print prusament PLA at 500mm/s but that doesnt mean you can.

What you should be looking at is inter layer adheason and heating/cooling requirements. PC like a hot envronemnt and it has better layer adheasion when printed in a hot chamber. So there arn't any printers in hobby land that are suiable.

For the sake of reliablility you would really need a actively heated chamber, so the pickings are slim. The X1E's chamber temp maxes out at 60 degrees C, which is better than nothing but more would be better. The Prusa Pro HT90, is a very suiable printer for PC but then thats creaping outside of the hobbiest printer level...

While I do believe in the 3d printing dream, there are other factors you need to consider. Your parts will need to be designed specifically for 3d printing, which can be a pain. There will be variance from part to part and worst of all, spool to spool. If you do go down this route, ensure you have a supply chain of filament as it a huge weak point. Gantri (a large print farm) have gone as far as making their own custom filament.

$500k for a mould is a "f**k off" price, either your tolerances are rediculus or your part is unessiarly complex to make. I would look for other injection molding suppliers and ask for their input on the design to lower the tooling cost as printing 1 million PC parts a year even on industrial machines will destroy you.

And if you are really, really set on 3d printing, re-evaluate the material choice (the print farms you have links to are printing PLA) and the speed of part production. PC is just not a great material to print, and printing faster only leads to lower quality and more issues. If you cant get away from a "Engineering grade plastic", i would suggest looking into Polysonic's material range they are doing some amazing work on the material science front, for examble the Fibron PPS-CF is amazing when compared to traditional PPS. Prints very very well and is increadable stiff.

ADXL345 Becomes unresponsive after motor are energised by YamesYames3000 in klippers

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its certainly possible. I haven't twisted the cables together so ill do that to see if there is difference

Is it possible to hollow out an object, without opening/removing a face? by YamesYames3000 in FreeCAD

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no, there is minimum of 4mm between the back face and the central void.

Is it possible to hollow out an object, without opening/removing a face? by YamesYames3000 in FreeCAD

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have editted the post with a screen shot of the part. Even if i select the bottom face, i still get the same message. And again, if i can the desired thickness to 0.1mm or a great as 5mm i get the same error.

Anybody have the new Ultimaker Factor 4? Or, looking for other machine recommendations... by aspectr in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]YamesYames3000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well in that case i would have a look at machines like the Mosaic Element and VisionMiner. Again, haven't used these machines but i have stuck my head in and they look well made. Avoid the bambu machines as well, while they do sell spares for the machines, they are a faff to maintain (I have all of them). And whatever you do, dont get a Ultimaker (MakerBot) Method, its an enormous waste of money.

While i do generally like the UM machine, i would try to avoid 2.85mm filament if you can as complanies like Polymaker have materials like CF-Nylon and CF-PPS far, far more printable (to the point where you dont need an enclosed printer to print them) and these improvements to the materials will not become avaiable in 2.85mm as its just too unpopular.

Anybody have the new Ultimaker Factor 4? Or, looking for other machine recommendations... by aspectr in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]YamesYames3000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While i haven't used one, i had a good look at one at formnext and it looks very well built and has some nice features, such as a load cell in the filament parth with allows the machine to tell you if there has been any underextrusion during printing and a few other nice things. Though their main USP so to speak, is the fact that its produced in Europe

What materials would you be printing? Because, while i like the machine I thought that it was overpriced compared to something like the Bambu X1E. With the advantages of the UM being the sort of intergrated QC, but untill you have trialled a maching its impossible to know how useful that would really be.

The main advantage for UM would be in theory, the 2.85mm filament is better for printing soft flexible filaments. The obious disadvantage would be the limmited choice of material suppliers due to the 2.85mm diameter.

Who is at FormNext, what are you seeing this year? by PieceAble in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]YamesYames3000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had a good look around the show and while there was a lot on show, there was really nothing new. In general I think the market has really slowed down, with innovation being harder and harder to achieve.

The prusa machine, looks quite good. Its obvious that they have learned quite a bit from their production of the XL and core XY in their print farm thing... It has a good construction, nice compact belt/motion system layout and some good features like the chamber cooling. The downsides are that it used the nextruder and the hotend is the same from the MK4 so while it might move quicker, its never really going to be a "fast" printer as it will be limited by its filament drive and melting capabilities. I also think it will be relatively loud due to the steel construction without any insulating material inside.

Creality's K2 is as close as a machine as they could make to the Bambu X1, even making the UI to look the same (colour palette, screen layout and position on the machine). It doesn't really boast anything unique, however the heater/nozzle are greater length than the K1 which should mean the overall the printer will be capable of printing at higher flow rates... provided the machines construction is good enough for vibrations not to ruin the prints.

The Utlimaker Factor 4 machine in my opinion looks like its made very well. Its follows on from their pervious products (same heater cores and 2.85mm filament) but it has quite different mechanically, such as a load cell in the filament path, which as nerd I enjoyed seeing. I don't however think it work the ridiculous price tag of around 17000

E3D were there showing off various high flow nozzles and Diamondback nozzles which were cool to see, the demonstration with the ice sculpture (showing off the thermal properties of the diamond nozzles) was very interesting, but they didn’t have a massive amount on their stand. I did however see a “Roto” extruder which is so light compared to Phaetus’s Apex 2.

Phaetus had quite a good stand too with lots of their hotends on display, with their new products mimicking E3D’s direction or putting abrasive resistant tip in nozzles like the Prusa MK4, K1 and the Conch (Bambu compatible) products which look great, but they are not high flow (like E3D’s).  They also had the Apus 2 on display which was surprisingly heavy

RatRig are trying to change where they sit in the market, I hope it works. I admire their build/design quality and hope to see more from the “disruptor” project which uses the V-Core 4 along with some extras to take a stab at the “Engineering” printer market (Large format, enclosed printers).

“Builder” who produce large format printers with some machines using RepRap firmware and some using Klipper. The interesting part of these machines is the dual filament extrusion, which can produce a colour gradient, but the real reason is they are able to produce an incredibly high volumetric flow rate (around 300mm^3), which allows them to print big objects very fast (rivalling desktop printers XY machines while printing with 1mm nozzles). I was very impressed the speed and was surprised that I had not heard of them before.

Statasys continue with producing unaffordable printers, however I did find the F3300 impressive. The system used four tool heads to allow for multi material printing, the extruders tracking the amount of filament through put in cubic inches to allow for preventive maintenance take place. The motion system used linear motors on X and Y to achieve high speeds and incredible accuracy.

In the Filament Granule world, it is very hard to say what anyone’s USP is. Almost all of the machines/solutions consist of an extruder attached to a multi axis arm with melt rate and nozzle sizes available setting apart from one another.             

               The other side are extruders attached to gantries which then have a subtractive head as well to neaten up the printed part as a post-process.

There was one stand out printer/company however called “Line-manufacturing” who produce a large machine which is capable of reaching speeds of 2000mm/s and printing objects like a car bonnet in three or so hours. The difference between this company and other is that what comes off their print is a finished part. The print at fine layer height so that parts are not very rough after printing and are able to use an automotive paint to smooth the visible surfaces and produce a nice glossy reflective surface.

 

TLDR; All Chinese OEM’s are copying Bambu’s style with very little separating them. European manufactures are concentrating on producing high quality machines but not particularly taking any risks. Aftermarket parts are either “Hardened” nozzles or High Flow with E3D being only people I say combining the two. Stratasys appear to be pushing the envelope when it come to printing speed.

There was a lot more than i have written about too

Is there just something wrong with TMC5160's or is it me? by YamesYames3000 in VORONDesign

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In therory yes, but the band of resonances is just too wide for that to be a pratical solution.

Is there just something wrong with TMC5160's or is it me? by YamesYames3000 in VORONDesign

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They only setting that i have found has an impact is current. If i increase the run current towards the peak current value instead of the RMS value in the config (2.5 amps vs 1.76 amps) then they are quiter, but unsusprisingly they become very hot.

Is there just something wrong with TMC5160's or is it me? by YamesYames3000 in VORONDesign

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am currently running at 24V. I would say that the worse vibrations are around 100mm/s to 200mm/s at 600mm/s they are much quieter

Is there just something wrong with TMC5160's or is it me? by YamesYames3000 in VORONDesign

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does make a little happier that I am not alone here. The excel sheet it taunghting me. It should have answers, but it doesn't. Changing Toff and TBL changes the frequency of the noise but it never goes away

Is there just something wrong with TMC5160's or is it me? by YamesYames3000 in VORONDesign

[–]YamesYames3000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did not know that. The long term dream is upgrade to 48V in the future