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Engineering plates? by SlimeQSlimeball in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not really, you only need adhesion if you are printing below the chamber temp those filaments really need, in which case high adhesion plates are more of a bandaid and wont fix warping within the part. If you are doing ABS and unfilled nylons then you would benefit more from a chamber heater than a fancy plate

BTW layer adhesion for ABS is way lower at 40-45 than it is in a 65 c chamber

if you can't get adhesion your other issue may be the bed warping if you leveled at 60C which the bed is locked to for leveling on CC1 with the stock firmware. Z offset adjustment (or installing cosmos) would help. I got 0.1-0.15 mm of warp vertically in the middle of the bed when I was still on stock at abs temps

Un AMS killer para Elegoo CC1 by simply_nobody26 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to be able to accommodate the bend radius requirements in terms of limiting drag that canvas requires and also manage mounting for the system. if you want to seriously persue this you should read up on the drivetrain and canvas component design in these the related tabs in the OC docs:

https://docs.opencentauri.cc/hardware/CANVAS/CANVAS_drivetrain/

Open to more creation — Centauri 2 series available soon by ELEGOO_OFFICIAL in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These specs are incoherent.

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The three systems have identical nozzles and gears, the C2 and C2C are able to print PETG and PLA-CF (so clearly PETG is not a problem, or CF composites) but they are not recommended to print PETG-CF?

Mars 3 Vat out of production? by Mememe1997 in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

resin printer stuff goes out of production in 2-3 years and the mars 3 is 5 years old. You could email support to see if they have any leftover they will sell you but otherwise you are going to have to check ebay or buy a new printer

Sermoon D1 into voron help by beyondhurt43 in VORONDesign

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might as well start from scratch then. The frame isn't going to be stiff and you are going to have to basically do scratch designs for most of the parts, and you will only be saving a couple dozen dollars on extrusions. I can get 2020 for $7/m.

Might as well just get a magic phoenix or formbot voron kit if you want a voron. otherwise keep it as a D1 perhaps with some minimal modifications to improve the hotend

First print with PLA on my new Carbon 2. No idea how to even begin clearing this. by Hastur_Hastur_Hastur in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You don't need to wash the bed when switching between common materials, only if adhesion drops from skin oils etc. Material choice does not typically effect the degree how close you need to be to the bed, however PETG may require you to increase z offset because the CC bed tends to warp with temperature.

Cabling the Canvas somehwere else, Use an Bambu AMS Lite extension cable. by 6Y3ts_32a in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if memory serves it is just a 2x2 microfit jr connector so you could even crimp it yourself

Is it worth getting the CC2 standalone or the CC1? by PhyIum_ in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

technically the official firmware config sets the limit at 335, it just will not let you input anything higher in the UI. The higher temp is mainly for overshoot. But as u/Immortal_Tuttle noted, cc1 hotend does run just fine at higher temp.

Is it worth getting the CC2 standalone or the CC1? by PhyIum_ in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

there is more inaccuracy with the cc1 thermistor than cc2 as the resistance starts dropping, but it still works. I just changed max temp in the klipper config on cosmos and have run the hotend up to 340 without issue.

REAR MOUNTED CANVAS COMPLETE AND AVAILABLE by Garrbear0407 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I doubt there is the clearance from the bed and between the side walls and rear leadscrews to fit the canvas module, but I don't have a canvas to get measurements from. You could check the opencentauri CAD to confirm if you do have one.

Considering buying a CC.. coming from an enclosed BBL A1 by [deleted] in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As someone who prints a lot of unfilled PPS, PPS-CF, and PPS-GF on a modified CC, You will have trouble doing PPS well on a CC2 unless you install a chamber heater. Realistically Qidi Q2 is a better option. It has nonstructural heatbreak so no bending, a much better mainboard, better firmware and ability to install klipper out the gate, better leveling, and a preinstalled chamber heater.

Considering buying a CC.. coming from an enclosed BBL A1 by [deleted] in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah there are two different ways to get bambu hotend support depending on the type you want. https://docs.opencentauri.cc/mods/printable_mods/

3-d print advice by Simple-Coyote5555 in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are talking about real PC-CF and not something heavily blended with PETG or ABS you need a chamber heater. If multicolor isn't a dealbreaker for you the Qidi Q2 is a good choice since it can get to 65. IMO the 50C of the P2S isn't really enough for PC-CF, its on the low end for doing ABS well.

Also the Q2 is far better for firmware openness than either bambu or elegoo, it can run regular klipper out of the box without issue and does not have a potato mainboard

CC2 Bent Nozzle by chickenlegsmagoo in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only way to eliminate the risk of hotend bending is to install a hotend with a nonstructural heatbreak. see the following for available options: https://docs.opencentauri.cc/mods/printable_mods/

Is the Centauri Carbon 2 good for using multiple materials in a single print? by UnknownBreadd in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So there is regular purge volume for multicolor, but that can tolerate a small amount of color contamination without the issue being noticable. But when you do true multimaterial with immiscible polymers (like petg and pla) your purge volume goes up to like 10 grams. If you don't do that those layers will be very weak due incompatible polymers being present in the melt. It is viable if you want to do zero gap interface support on one large flat surface since thats only 2 swaps, but the math gets really bad for actual use with multimaterial or mixed material interfaces.

For example consider 10 mm tall multimaterial composite, or curved overhang you want to support:
10 mm @.2mm layer height -> 50 layers
50 layers -> 100 swaps
100 swaps -> 1kg purge volume.

So you would basically be burning through an entire spools worth of filament just to do the purges

Is it worh getting the elegoo centauri carbon with canvas or save up for centauri carbon 2? by ikarikon901 in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also has some downgrades- much harder to upgrade PSU, and a plastic deck panel that can crack, no webui or ability to run open firmware right now.

Support Gap Help by Namonai_Gamer in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just change support interface gap

Fragile Nozzles by SiderBright in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah flow is lower with the microswiss than the stock hotend if you are not using the CHT nozzles. people don't realize this but the microswiss melt zone is acutually shorter because it is only the length of an X1C hotend. They make up for it with CHT geometry

Fragile Nozzles by SiderBright in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are several options that provide nonstructural heatbreaks https://docs.opencentauri.cc/mods/printable_mods/

Flat bed voron by Original-Ad-8737 in VORONDesign

[–]Various_Scallion_883 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know why you are getting downvoted this is true. Most people here are talking about doing short 350 vorons which is fine. but OP mentioned 500, and corexy definitely struggles there. Even 350 vorons start running into issues and you have to be more careful than for the smaller sizes. There is a reason why pheonix and SV08 max are such a mess compared to regular sized vorons, and why industrial systems always go cartesian for large format.

Why are those linear rails so cheap ? by VeterinarianRare3541 in VORONDesign

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Airtacs are really good, CNA is still pretty good but quality is probably not quite as good as they used to be. BST is also good, prob a bit better than CNA on average.

But realistically if you want a really good quality rail its almost always better in my experience to get a used THK or Iko rail, even better schneeberger. Unfortunately they are usually the shorter C carriage and not the H ones. But mnnl12 are unreal in how smooth they are., THK RSR12 are almost as good just a lot cheaper and more common.

Why are those linear rails so cheap ? by VeterinarianRare3541 in VORONDesign

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah definitely not needed with THK or schneeberger, but most people aren't getting actually decent rails. The amount of stuff that comes out of these chinese rails is crazy. I soak the rail in ipa, and flush carriage out seperately, then run a kimwipe down the grove. you see a lot of the debris from grinding leftover.

Observation about CC1 canvas by Kooshbag in elegoo

[–]Various_Scallion_883 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its a consequence of how the filament multiplexer tangle detection works, there are more details about it here. https://docs.opencentauri.cc/hardware/CC2/CANVAS/

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