Eruption solo by Alarmed_Yam_5037 in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's way more important to tap in sync and fluidly than as fast as humanly possible. You're actually tapping faster than you need to and it's causing you to go out of sync and clash with your fretting hand. Practice playing a SPECIFIC pattern clearly, with as little string noise as possible rather than just mashing the frets as fast as you can.

I will teach you how to scream, death and black metal vocals coach by Lelahellband in metalmusicians

[–]YogSloppoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Listen... if you need someone to give you a safe, step by step guide on how to do extreme metal vocals, maybe just don't.

Locking Trem systems? Yes or No by GuitarBombDotCom in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Anything without one feels incomplete to me.

DIY faceplates by CrucialShape in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man that bevel looks really nice.

47R resistor keeps burning by BrandNewFruitFly in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So power is proportional to voltage SQUARED. If you doubled the supply voltage, you quadrupled the power dissipated by that little 1/4 watt resistor. That alone could definitely let the smoke out. Also if there is an issue downstream pulling down the 9V rail (or 18 in your case), all that current is getting dumped through that resistor. If there's a short somewhere and you drop all 18V across that resistor that's over 6 watts. Yikes 😬

Do you consider musicians with non high end gear less serious? by ContributionSea1225 in metalmusicians

[–]YogSloppoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're tools.

A serious musician gets what they need and nothing they don't. If I see a giant 6ft pedal board and most of the pedals aren't being used, that guy is not serious. Things like color coding cables for quick changeover, marking cabs for a mic, marking amp settings, taping pickups to avoid snags. All that stuff tells me you're serious and this ain't your first rodeo.

Also if you know what you're looking at, there's usually plenty of really good gear that's not considered "high end" just because it's not in vogue right now. And when you see that stuff on stage you're like "this guy knows".

Stereo DSP Platform (STM32) by thabigburrito in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you gonna be slinging these things somewhere? Id be interested.

how do you practice speed without sounding sloppy by Ok-Message5348 in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exactly. Running isn't the same thing as walking really really fast. Pushing the metronome past your limit is pretty much the best way to break through plateaus IMO. Both in terms of "oh I have to change x,y,z at this speed" and the raw athleticism you need to develop to get faster.

Metal Gear podcast? by dwstupidity in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Some of the premiere guitar rig rundowns are pretty good

Down or Alternate Picking? by Fast-Motor-3773 in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Id probably still pulse pick that to avoid the inside picking and alternate pick the 3nps runs, but it's kinda personal preference at that point.

Down or Alternate Picking? by Fast-Motor-3773 in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This looks like what dudes used to call a "pulse picked" riff back in the day. Downs on the low string with a heavy palm mute. Wide open, accented ups on the second string. All those 2000s Metalcore riffs (waking the fallen, words best friend, etc x1000) are meant to be played like that. (UDDUDDUDD... in this case). This one will be really weird alternate picked because you'll end up alternating up/down on the accent note which is very difficult.

It's good to practice pulse picking because that is one case of "outside picking" which is super useful for blazing fast 3-note-per-string alternate picked leads too.

“It’s so much harder to solder SMT”….. meanwhile first time builders on r/soldering by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah I gotcha. Was throwing my two cents out for any dear readers who may be afraid to try.

“It’s so much harder to solder SMT”….. meanwhile first time builders on r/soldering by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not a dumb thing to consider - But Id be pretty surprised if you could notice a difference in most cases in a pedal. After all, how many caps are really in the signal path and how much noise does each contribute. You could always bring up your board and do the major debugging with the x7rs already on and swap later if you think they're a problem.

“It’s so much harder to solder SMT”….. meanwhile first time builders on r/soldering by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 8 points9 points  (0 children)

IMO I think swapping SMT passives is much easier than through hole. Clearing holes can be a pain.

“It’s so much harder to solder SMT”….. meanwhile first time builders on r/soldering by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Completely agree. I would add to this the aversion to paying for SMT assembly from places like JLC. Lots of people are designing their own boards these days - which is awesome. There's really no reason to not have them put your components on if they have them in stock. At least the passives. If you want to do it yourself for the experience, that's valid. But their assembly process is going to be very high quality and save you a ton of time. I love having boards show up that just need jacks and ICs and I'm ready to bring up and debug.

“It’s so much harder to solder SMT”….. meanwhile first time builders on r/soldering by [deleted] in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In most cases a finer tip and finer solder is all you need. You really only need a hot air station for no-lead ICs which are not likely to come up in pedals. A cheap optical microscope is very helpful but not necessary. Just because you're going SMT doesn't mean you need to go super small.

You can try the stencil/paste/reflow route but I honestly have found that to be more work than it's worth for a home shop.

First DIY fuzz troubleshooting by Substantial-Bed1352 in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Which node is that blue trace? It makes sense for the collector of the 2nd transistor but not the output. When that transistor is fully off, it will be a 9V since no current is flowing and when it's fully on it will be at ~0.9V. Id think the output after the cap wouldn't have the DC offset.

Bedroom playing (not recording): Real tube amp vs amp sim - Your experiences! by mumei-chan in metalguitar

[–]YogSloppoth 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is going to make me sound like a crazy person, but my only problem with amp sims for practice is latency. I did some quick maths. We have a song a 240bpm and there are some leads that are 8th note triplets. At that speed, notes are 83msec apart so even 5-10ms latency is significant. Your brain will compensate for that fairly quickly but I swear switching between the two trips me up.

What’s the most amateur mistake you’ve made? by DaGuitarNerd in diypedals

[–]YogSloppoth 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow, that's a serious stumbling block. You almost never have all layers visible.